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Topic: More Downrigger talk  (Read 13683 times)

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coosbayyaker

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Quote
When it comes to downriggers, weight limit really depends on the downrigger you have. The Scotty lake troller that I use has a 4 pound limit and that's what I use. It works great in most situations but when there's a good current flowing the blowback is pretty bad. I end up losing 20-30 feet sometimes which throws me way outta the strike zone. I'll be testing a Scotty depthmaster soon and crank up the weight to about 6-8#'s. I've been using 4#'s for such a long time I think I'll be able to handle the upgrade. When you start using a downrigger it's a good idea to start small and get larger weights as you get used to them. It's a pretty complicated system on a yak that can get messy fast.

Z


I split this off to it's own topic. I wanted to explore this further. I want to try this soon.

Do you use the wire or did you switch to 100lb spectra? What do you think about using 100lb Spectra? just so you can cut it if it gets stuck on the bottom or something else crazy happens.

What kind of release do you use? how much line do you normally let out behind the release? When you real in to check your bait do you pull on the pole and release it from the downrigger? or do you real each in a little at a time while the line is still in the release?What method do you use to tell how deep you are?

Thanks for the input Z...
See ya on the water..
Roy



polepole

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Hmmm ... there is a nice article on downrigging in the upcoming issue of Kayak Angler Magazine.  I wonder who write that?   ???

65-80 pounds spectra works for me.  Yup, spectra so you can cut it in case of emergency.  Also, the diameter of the spectra is thinner and prevents excessive blowback, especially with the relatively lighter balls we use.

I've been using the clip that comes with the Laketroller, but Alan Tani suggested to Zee at the ISE show in San Mateo to use the larger ones for greater tension before release on the strike.  I'll be using that going forward.

-Allen
« Last Edit: February 08, 2009, 09:16:50 PM by polepole »


coosbayyaker

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Hmmm ... there is a nice article on downrigging in the upcoming issue of Kayak Angler Magazine.  I wonder who write that?   ???

I've been using the clip that comes with the Laketroller, but Alan Tani suggested to Zee at the ISE show in San Mateo to use the larger ones for greater tension before release on the strike.  I'll be using that going forward.

-Allen

I'll have to make sure and read that one. If i could only pick the writers brain..... ;)

I imagine the greater tension is to get a better hook set for that first second of slack line at the realease of the clip?
See ya on the water..
Roy



ZeeHawk

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I split this off to it's own topic. I wanted to explore this further. I want to try this soon.

Do you use the wire or did you switch to 100lb spectra? What do you think about using 100lb Spectra? just so you can cut it if it gets stuck on the bottom or something else crazy happens.

What kind of release do you use? how much line do you normally let out behind the release? When you real in to check your bait do you pull on the pole and release it from the downrigger? or do you real each in a little at a time while the line is still in the release?What method do you use to tell how deep you are?

Thanks for the input Z...
Nice thread CBY.

OK here goes.
First drag is your biggest ENEMY in downrigger fishing from the kayak. You need to take advantage of every way to cut it down. You are right, you need to get rid of the downrigger wire. But 100# braid may be too much. I worry a little that it'll be hard to cut still. I think 60-80# should be fine. Plus in the extreme case that you do get stuck on the bottom, I'd rather have it be likely to break than not. Also the line on your reel should be braided too.

I've recently changed releases. The one that comes with the lake troller is good for trout and soft mouthed fish but when it comes to larger salmon you want setting power. I use the power grip plus set as strong as it will hold. You want it to release at 8#'s of pulling power so if you have a scale, test it. Also make sure your drag is set to 5#'s so that that the strike will set from the clip but won't break the line once of the downrigger. Saavy?

Next the specs.
how much line do you normally let out behind the release?
The distance from the release to the flasher should be 20-25 feet ONLY! Any more and you'll feel the wrath of line twist.

When you real in to check your bait do you pull on the pole and release it from the downrigger? or do you real each in a little at a time while the line is still in the release?
Absolutely release it. It most likely would release anyway but if you tried to pull it in clipped in, you'd have slack line everywhere and a snag fest below.

What method do you use to tell how deep you are?
Fish finder silly. ;) If you don't have a fish finder don't use a downrigger. I can't stress that enough. Using a down rigger you constantly need to know how deep you are. Sometimes you'll only be a few feet from the bottom and if you hit a shallow spot and aren't prepared... you're a gonner. If I'm going to be trolling near bottom I'll get to the depth I like, paddle on the slow side and drop the ball down until it hits bottom. Right then I'll hit the gas and the blowback will take it up a few feet. That's the easy way. But what if you want troll 60' in 120 FOW?? Calibration.

First I set up the ball w/ flasher and no lure. Head in the direction I want to troll and the depth I want to troll. I'll let out the downrigger counting turns. Once it hits the bottom I'll know that for today's conditions it takes 100 turns to get to the bottom (for example). So if I want to troll in 60 FOW then I know that 50 turns will get me there. Capiche?

That's the quick answers. I'd really like to get a seminar together so that I can really get into detail and show people hands on how to do it all. It's not an easy task but can be easier with instruction.

Hope this all made sense. ;)

Z
« Last Edit: February 09, 2009, 11:28:06 AM by Zee »
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coosbayyaker

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It made perfect sense to me. Kinda what i was assuming anyway. Still can't wait to read your article, good timing.

Do you just use a ball weight or one of those hydrodynamic ones?

Now i need to find a good deal on a lake troller.....

See ya on the water..
Roy



polepole

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It made perfect sense to me. Kinda what i was assuming anyway. Still can't wait to read your article, good timing.

Do you just use a ball weight or one of those hydrodynamic ones?

Now i need to find a good deal on a lake troller.....



Ummm ... it's MY article.   ;)

I use a ball weight.  Well, for 3 pounds anyways.  For 4, I misplaced my ball (I'm sure it's somewhere in the garage), and bought a 4 pounds bottomfishing weight that is square shaped.  It works ok, but I think it spins sometimes, at least I sometimes notice the release tag wrapped around the main downrigger line.  But it's not wrapped around my fishing line so I haven't worried about it too much.

-Allen
« Last Edit: February 08, 2009, 10:31:57 PM by polepole »


ZeeHawk

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Do you just use a ball weight or one of those hydrodynamic ones?

Now i need to find a good deal on a lake troller.....

I don't think the shape really matters much. If you've got the right set up it all works out. They just want your cash for a fancy lookin' chunka' lead. I personally grab a big ball weight and coat it in plastic dip. Turns out to be a few dollars instead of $25 or more!!

I'm doing some tests on some new downriggers. Stay tuned for more info. ;D

Z
« Last Edit: February 08, 2009, 10:27:58 PM by Zee »
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coosbayyaker

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Ummm ... it's MY article.   ;)

I use a ball weight.  Well, for 3 pounds anyways.  For 4, I misplaced my ball (I'm sure it's somewhere in the garage), and bought a 4 pounds bottomfishing weight that is square shaped.  It works ok, but I think it spins sometimes, at least I sometimes notice the release tag wrapped around the main downrigger line.  But it's not wrapped around my fishing line so I haven't worried about it too much.

-Allen

Oh, can't wait to read your article, then....

I got a three pound ball, I got some ideas about how to build my own downrigger. Do the retail downriggers have a drag on them like a reel?
See ya on the water..
Roy



polepole

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Do the retail downriggers have a drag on them like a reel?

Yes, sort of.

-Allen


bsteves

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Quote
Do the retail downriggers have a drag on them like a reel?

The Scotty Lake Troller has a nut you can tighten down to increase the drag.
“People say nothing is impossible, but I do nothing every day.”

― A.A. Milne, Winnie-the-Pooh


ZeeHawk

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I got some ideas about how to build my own downrigger.

FFTW's ears are BURRRRNING!!!!  :D
Z


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Those are good instructions Zee and pretty much what I do plus somemore. Thanks!
I have not read Allen's article yet but I think I'll have to buy a copy of that mag. I heard there was also an article about some looneys camping on some Canadian island.

Like Zee said, nothing is cooler than watching your ball on the ff screen and knowing exactly where it is (including seeing blow back and recovery when it sinks back under you).

 My lo-budget downrigger has 100lb Kevlar because that's what I had laying around. It cuts pretty easily with my handy vest knife and has stopped me dead in the water when it got hung. (as Brian pointed out it makes great dental floss too).
I use the ProRelease downrigger clip and it works REALLY well for me and was worth the expense (and I am cheap). I use a 6lbs ball and its okay, but I'd like to bump it up and use a pancake weight. Seems it "should" be less of a drag with the smaller frontal area.

You guys ever think about an automatic retrieve? I realize that goes against the grain of simplicity, but it sure would be nice to have to haul up the ball from the depths (especially when you occupied with a fish on).

Lo-Buget Downrigger:
http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,338.0.html

ProRealease review:
http://www.salmonuniversity.com/pr_product_reviews_pro_release.html


(I type realllllly slooooow Zee ;D)
"For when sleeping I dream of big fish and strong fights"


ZeeHawk

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You guys ever think about an automatic retrieve? I realize that goes against the grain of simplicity, but it sure would be nice to have to haul up the ball from the depths (especially when you occupied with a fish on).

On those days where the shakers are thick I sure do think about it. But then again nothing's better than doing it all yourself and getting a good workout. I'm always in need of one. :P

You know as long as I've been fishing with the downrigger I've never had a fish get wrapped around the DR line. Luck? Dunno. I think when you catch a fish off a yak they tire out more than a PB since they're dragging you around so when they get to the yak they're pretty pooped out.

Z
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coosbayyaker

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Surfing the net i found this in case anyone is looking for one.

http://www.fish307.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6740
See ya on the water..
Roy



ZeeHawk

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Actually this is the one that's easiest to fit for yaks and definitely the best price I've seen.
Scotty Lake troller $54.50
http://www.lfsmarineoutdoor.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=119

Z
2010 Angler Of The Year
2008 Moutcha Bay Pro - Winner
Jackson kayaks, Kokatat, Daiwa, Werner Paddles, Orion, RinseKit, Kayak Academy


 

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