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SD2OR with a trophy fall walleye

Topic: Kayak repair  (Read 3522 times)

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Trident 13

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Kent
  • Date Registered: Jul 2016
  • Posts: 791
Saw this on the "PaddleNews" weekly email, thought it might give someone a place to start.

https://paddling.com/learn/kayak-repair/

« Last Edit: November 01, 2017, 07:57:39 AM by Trident 13 »


Tinker

  • Sturgeon
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  • Kevin
  • Location: 42.74°N 124.5°W
  • Date Registered: May 2013
  • Posts: 3304
Thanks for the link.  I need to fill the 1-inch hole I drilled in a Tarpon before I give it to my Grandkid and didn't know where to start.  Timely.
« Last Edit: November 01, 2017, 12:36:11 PM by Tinker »
I expected the worst, but it was worse than I expected...


Hydrospider

  • Guest
Thanks for sharing this interesting read.
Here is a NWKA resource with some photos of PE repairs.
Not nearly as all encompassing as this article, but the photos are of real plastic welds.

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=19254.0


INSAYN

  • ORC_Safety
  • Sturgeon
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  • **RIP...Ron, Ro, AMB, Stephen**
  • Location: Forest Grove, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2008
  • Posts: 5411
What I would do there is just take a piece of cheap 1/4" cutting board, cut and shape it to fit inside that entire rectangle area. Then scuff up the kayak area, as well as the back of the cutting board with 80 grit paper, and thoroughly GOOP it down.  If you can reach under from the hatch there, you could secure it with screws/nuts in 4 to 6 places as well.   GOOP is your friend, use it liberally! 
« Last Edit: November 04, 2017, 01:36:22 PM by INSAYN »
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


Tinker

  • Sturgeon
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  • Kevin
  • Location: 42.74°N 124.5°W
  • Date Registered: May 2013
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What I would do there is just take a piece of cheap 1/4" cutting board, cut and shape it to fit inside that entire rectangle area. Then scuff up the kayak area, as well as the back of the cutting board with 80 grit paper, and thoroughly GOOP it down.  If you can reach under from the hatch there, you could secure it with screws/nuts in 4 to 6 places as well.   GOOP is your friend, use it liberally!

Thought about doing this the other day then thought about my fabricating skills... they're a nit lacking these days.  But I think it makes the most sense - now that you've suggested it - and I'll just have to buy a whole bunch of cutting boards and keep trying until I get it correctly shaped.  Thank you. 
I expected the worst, but it was worse than I expected...


Mojo Jojo

  • Sturgeon
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  • Suffers from Yakfishiolus Catchyitis
  • Location: Tillamook, Oregon
  • Date Registered: May 2014
  • Posts: 6006
Hole saw 1/4 to 1/2 inch bigger then the hole (depending on space  around the existing hole) drill two pieces out of cutting board material goop one on top and one on the bottom and a nut and bolt that’s the same size as the hole saws drill bit to sandwich it all together.



Shannon
2013 Jackson Big Tuna "Aircraft Carrier"
2011 Native Mariner Propel "My pickup truck"
2015 Native Slayer Propel "TLW's ride"
20?? Cobra Fish-N-Dive “10yo grandson’s”
20?? Emotion Sparky “5 yr old granddaughter’s”


DWB123

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  • Location: Seattle, WA
  • Date Registered: Aug 2013
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bb2fish

  • Sturgeon
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  • Location: Oregon
  • Date Registered: Feb 2013
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Are you planning to mount a fish finder?  you could use the hole and one of the Hobie wire-plugs (I think that's what they were called).


Tinker

  • Sturgeon
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  • Kevin
  • Location: 42.74°N 124.5°W
  • Date Registered: May 2013
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Or K.I.S.S. and goop a rubber stopper in there. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-4-in-x-1-in-Black-Rubber-Stopper-808278/204273370

Are you planning to mount a fish finder?  you could use the hole and one of the Hobie wire-plugs (I think that's what they were called).

This kayak goes to my Granddaughter.  While both of your suggestions would surely fill the hole, I'm hoping for something closer to a restoration.  But I won't rule out a rubber stopper or the thru-hull plug - they definitely fit my skills more closely.   ;D

Thank you both.
I expected the worst, but it was worse than I expected...


skidlybo

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  • Location: Lake Stevens, WA
  • Date Registered: Sep 2014
  • Posts: 70
If you have a sheet metal or fab shop nearby you might be able to score a thin gauge aluminum or stainless punch out.  They look like coins.  Maybe 1 1/4" punch out and glue it down with a bead of marine grade urethane sealant.   Heck you could glue down a 50 cent piece. 
« Last Edit: November 04, 2017, 09:41:29 PM by skidlybo »


INSAYN

  • ORC_Safety
  • Sturgeon
  • *
  • **RIP...Ron, Ro, AMB, Stephen**
  • Location: Forest Grove, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2008
  • Posts: 5411
Or just cut out a piece of thin cutting board from the Dollar Tree to fit the rectangle area.  Scuff both the boat and the piece.  GOOP that sucker down.  Done!  Nobody would ever know there was a hole there unless you told them.
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


Hydrospider

  • Guest
 It seems that folks here are suggesting alternatives to a traditional plastic weld.
Is there a reason why?
This job is a straight forward patch and smooth. Its on a flat area and away from scuppers,
there is access to both sides of the hole, and Tinker has experience in hull repairs.

 Im not suggesting that any of these are bad ideas, but why avoid the standard plastic kayak repair techniques?


skidlybo

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  • Date Registered: Sep 2014
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I'm just guessing but it sounded like Tinker was looking for a quick repair idea with minimal time, tools, and expertise required.  That being said, without a doubt a plastic weld would be the gold standard repair method.

I'm going to give the plastic weld a try on the rear keel area of my OK Trident.  I don't want to find out how thin it is when I'm on the water.  One feature I liked on the Jackson Cuda I used to own was the replaceable rear keel strip. 


Tinker

  • Sturgeon
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  • Location: 42.74°N 124.5°W
  • Date Registered: May 2013
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It seems that folks here are suggesting alternatives to a traditional plastic weld.
Is there a reason why?
This job is a straight forward patch and smooth. Its on a flat area and away from scuppers,
there is access to both sides of the hole, and Tinker has experience in hull repairs.

Im not suggesting that any of these are bad ideas, but why avoid the standard plastic kayak repair techniques?

I'd been looking at it as needing a 1" disc to fit/fill the hole - not hard to make - which led me to wondering how to support the disc and keep it aligned (flat) while welding it in place.  I've had reasonable success patching smaller holes and I've smoothed deeply gouged keels - none anywhere near as damaged as the keel you fixed - but I've never worked on a hole this size and I can use all the suggestions I can get.  Thank you for bringing welding back into the discussion.
I expected the worst, but it was worse than I expected...


INSAYN

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  • Location: Forest Grove, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2008
  • Posts: 5411
I got the impression Tinker wanted a fix that would look clean and not "repaired".  A small 1/4" hole or smaller could easily be welded to look natural. A 1" hole, not so easily.
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15