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Topic: Any tips on best way to mount a Scotty Laketroller before I drill?  (Read 3133 times)

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crabby

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Skagit County
  • Date Registered: Nov 2018
  • Posts: 24
I just bought a Scotty Laketroller for Lake Samish Kokanee and note that it comes with a 'side or deck' style mount. I had been thinking of using a Flush deck mount, figuring there would be less stress on the kayak deck. Anyone have any thoughts or experience?
"Pick you up in two hours", Dad


DWB123

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Seattle, WA
  • Date Registered: Aug 2013
  • Posts: 841
slap it atop a milkcrate and call it macaroni. you'll keep your center of gravity well-centered, too. it's easy-peasy.


Dawn Patrol

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Date Registered: Nov 2017
  • Posts: 164
I use the deck flush mount, position mine just off of my right hip on the deck. Has been surprisingly strong, and I have put a lot of mileage on it this way (300+ days).

I think it depends on your kayak, balance, style. I sat in my kayak on dry land with the elements laid out to make sure it worked ergonomically. For me this has worked out great for Puget Sound, using braided dr line and an #8 ball with the fin bent a bit to encourage it to tack towards me. Initially I was trolling 25-60’, now I troll as deep as 100-115’.

It does add more moving parts and complexity, but I catch a lot of fish on it. All that said I’m going to upgrade to the next model with release bar and line counter for my new Outback. One of the main reasons is that sometimes it can get a bit spicy with that tightening nut on top of the laketroller, have to keep tightness adjusted. I think the bigger model will retrieve better too, but depending on the fish and situation I often just leave the line deployed until I met the fish. Ideally you get the dr line in during the fight, it’s often a choice. When retrieving the ball (and when landing bigger fish) I usually have my legs over the sides in the water for stability, keeping an eye for seals. When winding up with the #8 ball I usually have my left hand on the boom and crank up with my right.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2019, 03:28:36 PM by Dawn Patrol »


crabby

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Skagit County
  • Date Registered: Nov 2018
  • Posts: 24
With an 8# ball it sounds like stress on the deck isn't a problem. Did you add a backing plate like some suggest? I can't see how I could get my hand up there, but maybe. Anyone here use back-plates?

As to center of gravity, I do think about physics from time to time! Rather not go for a swim. However, I'm using a 4# ball in a lake and have a set of outriggers if I feel it might get rough.
"Pick you up in two hours", Dad


pmmpete

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Missoula, Montana
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 1989
I have mounted a Scotty Laketroller on my 13' Ocean Kayak Trident, and a Scotty Depthmaster and a Cannon Lake-Troll on my 13' Hobie Revolution.   I posted a description of how I mounted the Cannon Lake-Troll on my Revolution, why I mounted it that way, and how to use a downrigger from a kayak at http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=12575.msg138905#msg138905.  That post contains general suggestions which you may find useful when deciding how to set up your kayak for downrigger trolling regardless of the kind of kayak which you own.

It's difficult to make specific suggestions about how to mount your Scotty Laketroller without knowing what kind of kayak you own, and whether it's a pedal kayak or a paddle kayak.

A Scotty Laketroller is a small and primitive downrigger, but it will work fine for kokanee fishing.  If the hum from the steel cable drives you crazy, I suggest that you replace the cable with Scotty 175 pound low-drag Spectra braided downrigger line, which will eliminate the hum and will reduce the drag, which will let you troll somewhat deeper than you can with steel cable. If you will be using a rod and reel which have braided line mounted on them, which I recommend, I recommend that you buy a Blacks clip-style downrigger release and mount it between your downrigger weight and your downrigger cable.  Blacks releases work great. You can operate a Scotty Laketroller with one hand, but it's easiest to hold the cable reel handle with one hand and tighten the nut which locks the cable reel with the other hand. When deciding where to mount your downrigger, put on a lot of clothing and your PFD, and make sure that you can reach across your body to operate the downrigger while wearing all of that gear.

If you own a paddle kayak, it can be challenging to paddle your kayak forwards while operating your downrigger, unless you are fortunate enough to have three hands.  But if you mount your Laketroller where you can lean the side of your leg on the edge of the cable reel, to lower your downrigger weight you can release the locking nut, hold the cable reel in place with the side of your leg, paddle forward with both hands, and let the weight descend by easing up the pressure on the cable reel with your leg. When raising your downrigger weight, you can crank up the weight for a while, hold the cable reel in place with your leg while paddling forward, and then stop paddling for a minute to resume cranking up the weight.  Neither of these techniques is necessary if you have a pedal kayak, because you can operate the downrigger and fish with both hands while pedaling forwards.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2019, 06:57:34 PM by pmmpete »


Dawn Patrol

  • Rockfish
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  • Date Registered: Nov 2017
  • Posts: 164
I don’t have a plate and don’t have any challenges, but can’t guarantee what will work for you and your rig. See pic attached- dr mount in place but no dr that day (jigging for lings). You need to buy the set of Scotty nuts (see pic attached) and i’d check YouTube vids for mounting tips, you don’t want to over-tighten. And I’d still explore a plate if your rig will accommodate.

I keep the boom pointed back so the line enters the water only an inch or two from the rail. The winder is just off of my hip so I can often make a quick adjustment (deeper, lower) without breaking stride too much. I am also pretty low in the water with the kayak (an older Cobra) so I think some of those factors lend to more stability. On Puget Sound I did initially try a 4#, then a 6#, but neither reliably got me down to lower depths or the right depth depending on current. I’d recommend starting with a lower weight and less line out initially until you get dialed in.

I’m sure there are tons of other opinions, suggestions. This forum has been an awesome place for feedback and intel! But I find having a flexible program including downrigger, jigging, mooching and casting helps me to have a fun and usually productive session regardless of the (usually have gear for 2-3 options) variables. Some days the “gank ” (seaweed etc) knocks out the trolling option so don’t want all your eggs in one basket. The last straw on getting the 2019 Outback was the end of last season when those bigger cohos were hanging pretty deep. I couldn’t always paddle to a fast enough speed when trolling deep, so despite a lot of effort I wasn’t always “fishing”.

« Last Edit: February 01, 2019, 08:57:22 AM by Dawn Patrol »


Dawn Patrol

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Date Registered: Nov 2017
  • Posts: 164
Pmmpete, love that leg brake function! Smart, will be adding that to the mix.


pmmpete

  • Sturgeon
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  • Location: Missoula, Montana
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 1989
I just bought a Scotty Laketroller for Lake Samish Kokanee and note that it comes with a 'side or deck' style mount. I had been thinking of using a Flush deck mount, figuring there would be less stress on the kayak deck. Anyone have any thoughts or experience?
If you decide to use a Scotty flush mount rather than the side-deck mount for your Scotty Laketroller, be sure to buy a non-locking flush mount.  Even if you glue a cap over the open end of the tube of a locking flush mount, water can leak into your kayak through the locking mechanism.  The non-locking flush mount is completely sealed.

I think the primary reasons to use a Scotty flush mount rather than a Scotty side-deck mount are (a) the flush mount doesn't stick up above the hull of your kayak and interfere with transporting it upside-down on a roof rack, and (b) if you have a paddle kayak, the flush mount will lower your downrigger by two inches, so it will interfere less with your paddle stroke.  I don't think that a flush mount will make your Laketroller put much less stress on the hull of your kayak.
« Last Edit: February 01, 2019, 07:13:17 AM by pmmpete »


pmmpete

  • Sturgeon
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  • Location: Missoula, Montana
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 1989
But I find having a flexible program including downrigger, jigging, mooching and casting helps me to have a fun and usually productive session regardless of the (usually have gear for 2-3 options) variables. Some days the “game” (seaweed etc) knocks out the trolling option so don’t want all your eggs in one basket. The last straw on getting the 2019 Outback was the end of last season when those bigger cohos were hanging pretty deep. I couldn’t always paddle to a fast enough speed when trolling deep, so despite a lot of effort I wasn’t always “fishing”.
I agree.  When I first started downrigger trolling, I tended to downrigger troll all day.  And for some kinds of fish, particularly kokanee, I still stick with downrigger trolling, because that technique works best for me.  But for other kinds of fish, such as lake trout, I when I'm downrigger trolling I also carry a rod or rods set up for jigging or casting.  If I see lake trout on my fish finder while downrigger trolling, but they aren't hitting, I'll use the GPS features of my fish finder to go back to where I saw the fish, and will switch to jigging or casting.  Don't be so excited by your new downrigger that you forget that there are other effective ways to fish!
« Last Edit: February 01, 2019, 07:24:45 AM by pmmpete »


crabby

  • Herring
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  • Location: Skagit County
  • Date Registered: Nov 2018
  • Posts: 24
Thanks for all the info, it's very helpful and the reason I joined this site. I've been casting and jigging all my life but never once used a downrigger! Looking forward to a new challenge!
"Pick you up in two hours", Dad


IdahoSkies

  • Perch
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  • Location: Southwest Idaho
  • Date Registered: Sep 2015
  • Posts: 60
I'm a little late to the party but I run a scotty laketroller of a Scotty flush mount on the top of the gunwale on my Malibu Stealth.  I used the plastic rivets and some marine grade goop sealent below and around the mount (if that makes sense).  I use a 4# ball, but I have not noticed any problem, or distortion of the hull.  Has worked for me.     

I have a flush mount near the center of my boat but the laketroller arm did not quite clear the boat without rubbing, so I mounted on the gunwale.

 


Dawn Patrol

  • Rockfish
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  • Date Registered: Nov 2017
  • Posts: 164
A couple of more things- I think the laketroller comes with one of the mini line clips. Over time I found those to be less predictable, and popped off too easy and often. I now use the bigger, standard Scotty dr clips, and always have at least one backup on board. And add a small snubber between the weight and the line.


crabby

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Skagit County
  • Date Registered: Nov 2018
  • Posts: 24
Thanks everyone, all great advice. Can't wait for spring Kokanee!
"Pick you up in two hours", Dad