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SD2OR with a trophy fall walleye
 

Topic: Frustrations with jigging  (Read 2864 times)

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witty1

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: Langley, WA
  • Date Registered: Mar 2017
  • Posts: 6
Hey all...
I've been taking the kayak out near possession point the past few days... overall, I've lost 6-8 fish near the kayak.... frustrating as hell... I've shore and kayak fished with buzz bombs and rotators and have never lost that many fish in such a short time.
The setup is a 7ft medium fiberglass rod with an ambassadeur 6500, 30lb test braid main, 12lb leader. 3oz candlefish dart jig with a 3/0 siwash hook.

Any tips on keeping the fish on these dart jigs??
« Last Edit: September 03, 2018, 09:52:41 PM by witty1 »


Skilledge

  • Krill
  • *
  • Location: Washington
  • Date Registered: May 2016
  • Posts: 15
Simplest fix would be to use a light drag setting if not already and wear down the fish a bit more before bringing the fish close. Also I have found that pinching the barb off a non-barbless hook seems to work better then purchasing barbless hooks (more friction). Also adding a swivel to the split ring without the clip gives the fish less leverage on the jig. Of course use a quality hook like Owner/Gamakatsu helps. The hooks that come with the darts are junk in my opinion they bend to easy and are not that sharp without sharpening. I haven’t lost a fish this season jigging this way with my catch cards already full. I think the best advice I can give you is take your time. Just don’t fight a king till it’s dead if your not a 100% sure it’s legal when open. Also the x-11 lamiglas 7’10” jigging rod is what many use and I have had great success with it. The equipment is much less important then taking your time though. I prefer graphite over fiberglass any day when jigging though. 


workhard

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Get off your computer and fish
  • Location: Bellingham
  • Date Registered: Sep 2015
  • Posts: 712
Bend the eyes of the jig at a 90 degree angle and run a double hook mooching leader though them with a bead to protect the knot. Takes away leverage the fish has with the jig to throw the hook.


Skilledge

  • Krill
  • *
  • Location: Washington
  • Date Registered: May 2016
  • Posts: 15
The rigging workhard uses also works great that's what I used last year. I would go with 2/0 for twin hook mooching leader but 3/0 will work. Personally I think his setup works better for getting more fish hooked often you will get short biters. Either will work fine, I switched to using a swivel because I noticed the jig and the hook separate a large distance on the free fall sometimes using the mooching setup.


Dawn Patrol

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Date Registered: Nov 2017
  • Posts: 164
Wearing the fish down is key, if it comes in too soon/hot it will be spicy. Having drag right is important, as is keeping the fish in front of you (or keeping the rod pointed towards it if possible). 

I use a sampo swivel with a clip to the jig, but just have a siwash off of the split ring (agreed on ditching the hook that comes with the PWD). That mooching leader technique sounds good too.

I use a shorter trevala (6’8” I think). Has been great jiging chinook and handles runs, then the length helps when netting.

Sounds like you are doing a lot right, just experiment with some of the final tweaks! I spent this winter learning to jig for salmon, lots of trial and error but finally dialed in. Great way to catch and easy way to diversify your program on the water.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2018, 10:41:00 PM by Dawn Patrol »


JasonM

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Snohomish
  • Date Registered: Jun 2017
  • Posts: 282
For reference, here's a picture of the rig that I'm currently using for jigging after some advice from workhard.



I try to keep control of my line enough so that I can set the hook the instant that it stops falling through the water if that happens before it hits bottom. I freespool but keep my thumb on the spool to control the line so that line goes out quickly enough to not interfere with the flutter during falling but not enough so that hooks and bumper bead separate from the jig.


pmmpete

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Missoula, Montana
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 1989
Previous posters have made a lot of good suggestions.  Here are mine, for what they are worth:  Hold your rod at a right angle to your fishing line, to get as much benefit as you can from the shock absorption of the bending rod.  The more you drop the tip of your rod, the less shock absorption benefit you get.  Keep playing with your drag, so you can reel in line when the fish isn't fighting hard, but it can strip off line at a controlled level of tension when it takes a run.  Don't hold your rod rigidly - keep your grip flexible, so your rod can bob down somewhat to absorb the shock of hard jerks and head shakes, and can swing up instantly take up any slack provided by the fish.


Zach.Dennis

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2015
  • Posts: 799
Hold your rod at a right angle to your fishing line, to get as much benefit as you can from the shock absorption of the bending rod. 

This sounds like the spine is offset on your fishing rod.  A properly aligned spine should allow the rod to bend at the correct angle.  I found this out when building my first rod.  Had to redo a lot of work once i found out my spine was misaligned with the eyelets
2021 1st Place ORC
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pmmpete

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Missoula, Montana
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 1989
Hold your rod at a right angle to your fishing line, to get as much benefit as you can from the shock absorption of the bending rod. 

This sounds like the spine is offset on your fishing rod.  A properly aligned spine should allow the rod to bend at the correct angle.  I found this out when building my first rod.  Had to redo a lot of work once i found out my spine was misaligned with the eyelets
No, I'm not talking about the spine of a fishing rod.  I'm  talking about keeping the rod oriented at right angles to the tension on your fishing line as the fish pulls in various directions.


witty1

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: Langley, WA
  • Date Registered: Mar 2017
  • Posts: 6
Thanks for the tips, I'll try the bent eye + bead setup and report back.


Trident 13

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Kent
  • Date Registered: Jul 2016
  • Posts: 791
If you snell them carefully you’ll get one hook pointed one way and the other, well, the other way as does some well respected advice givers in this thread. Experiment with siwash straight shaft hook, one on top, the one below and then two. (Who knows what really works, just believe what you do and go light on the drag if using braid). Just be happy you’re hooking up !
« Last Edit: September 10, 2018, 09:38:08 PM by Trident 13 »


witty1

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: Langley, WA
  • Date Registered: Mar 2017
  • Posts: 6
Well I landed one... lost another... so its too early to tell. I was definitely doing better than most of the boats... so thats a plus.


 

anything