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Picture Of The Month



SD2OR with a trophy fall walleye

Topic: Plans for a Downrigger Mount - Hobie Revo 13  (Read 2608 times)

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Trident 13

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Kent
  • Date Registered: Jul 2016
  • Posts: 791
I've been chatting with Pete and we've come up with a very stable no-drill (other than a gear track) mount for a cannon downrigger.  I had a Lake troller cannon and scotty base mount I modified. I wanted a really stable platform and Pete helped with a "lessons learned" model that is really stable.  Others could use whatever mount/DRs they wanted.  It's only garage tested to date, but it's more stable than the scotty lake troller I had on my trident 13 using the pole holder insert.  A trial "ER stop" of an 8-lb cannon ball before it hit the floor produced almost no bounce.  It is a little tricky to fab in using the water bottle slot, but a $13 3/8+- thick 18"X12" commercial cutting board from Cash & Carry can make two, and some aluminum angle iron from the hardware store along with some stainless bolts add up to about a $25 very stable mount.  To make the mount level on the gear track it had to be slightly angled outward and down, requiring a need for a circular slot/notch for the rear gear track bolt so you can slide it down and rotate in place, but it works good.  I've traced the outline of the plastics on an 8.5X11 paper and can forward them to anyone interested. That provides a life size pattern to trace.
I'd attach them here if I knew how.  Will do a followup if I can find time to reach the water.
I can remove it and put it back on about as fast as you can spin the wing nuts that I'm sure I'll loose, but...
I'm also thinking it provides a good reentry handle assuming I'm on the other side as the FF and pole holder are on the right.  Will be loading it with 100-lb braid and using about a 1 ft snubber.

PS I've tried rotating the pics but can't seem to get it upright here, pretend you took a big wave?
« Last Edit: July 11, 2018, 10:08:26 PM by Trident 13 »


bb2fish

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Oregon
  • Date Registered: Feb 2013
  • Posts: 1499
Nicely Done Trident13/deserter to Hobie ;D.
Are you planning to use an 8lb ball for trolling?  How deep are you going and for what species will you primarily use the downrigger?

I think you can attach a pdf file just like you attach the picture files--below the body of the message is a section that says in bold letters Attach: (Choose File).

I'm probably going to use the cupholder for a downrigger mount, so I'd be interested to use your plans, and leverage the learning from Pete's original design too.  Thanks for sharing, guys. 


AndyFishes

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: Port Townsend
  • Date Registered: Oct 2016
  • Posts: 109
Looks good. How did you make the cup holder section? I'm thinking of doing the same. I currently just have the two bolts/geartrack. That third point of contact probably makes a big difference in stability. I'm probably going to try to make a template with some thin boards glued or taped together. That just joins the baseplate using Al angle and bolts, right. If you send me the dimensions and a rough drawing I can make up a drawing of this and save it as a pdf if you want. It's kinda what I do...




 


pmmpete

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Missoula, Montana
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 1989
Your downrigger setup looks good, Trident 13!  Add some pictures of details of the setup for our edification, such as the notch which you cut in the gear track so the block can drop into the cup holder, and the bolts which you modified to slide into in the gear track.

If you tie a length of cord through the hole in the white lock in the slide-in base for the downrigger, it'll give you something easy to grab when you want to pull out the lock to release the downrigger. Knurled plastic hand nuts which you can buy at a hardware store are more comfortable to tighten than thumbscrews, if there's enough room for them between the holes in the base plate and the slide-in base for the downrigger.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2018, 06:34:58 PM by pmmpete »


pmmpete

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Missoula, Montana
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 1989
How did you make the cup holder section? I'm thinking of doing the same. I currently just have the two bolts/geartrack. That third point of contact probably makes a big difference in stability. I'm probably going to try to make a template with some thin boards glued or taped together.
Here's how I made a template for the block of cutting board which fits in the cup holder.  It only takes two pieces of cardboard, some tape, and a couple minutes.  If you bolt the base plate for the downrigger onto the gunwale of your kayak, you can tape a third piece of cardboard to the top of the template to establish the height of the block of cutting board.


AndyFishes

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: Port Townsend
  • Date Registered: Oct 2016
  • Posts: 109
Thanks, Pete. That's about what I had in mind for making a template. Got some work to do this weekend...Monday is opener here!


Trident 13

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Kent
  • Date Registered: Jul 2016
  • Posts: 791
BB - With 90 lb braid and an 8 lb ball, at slack tide, I’ve gone down to 180 @ less than a 45 degree line angle. Puget Sound has much more current on many days than the ocean. It all depends on the wind, tide, current (again, current in PS is huge compared to the ocean).  I will try to attach the file. A cheap 3/8 inch cutting board is key. A tight fit is important. The cup is round. An oversized cut and hand filing was the key for me. It really is rock solid. Pete led the way and provided good suggestions. I consider this an advanced “Pete” model.

Andy- the cup holder section is rounded on the corners. Didn’t want it rubbing inside the cup holder. Slow with the hand file was key. Have a beer. There’s a lot worse ways to focus on non-work/life stuff than this,  I could have been done faster, but I liked the quiet.  It’s why I can appreciate the GTG, ,it typically stand aside.

Pete, I didn’t expect to need that tiny notch you picked up on to allow the cup holder piece to fit tightly in the cup holder and be level with the greater tract, but nice eye, it was important. Likewise, I didn’t expect to have to cut the half moon circle for the rear bolt. The top fit perfect until I attached it to the cup pence. Both bolts are exactly like you recommended earlier. Yes, I burnt my fingers grinding them to fit. A small nut you can back off after holding it with a vise gripes while grinding them will clean the threads when you back them off.

Again Pete, I appreciate the thought of the line through the white lock but I hope not to use it to keep it clean. The cannon DR fit well inside the Scotty mount with some filing for the notch fit. That was worth two beers. A cannon mount might fit fit right off, but I had a twelve pack and am semi retired between Panama trips, etc. I’m very lucky I like what I do.  Again, great group, happy to share.

Some have noticed I’m moving east. Already have plans to cross Lake Erie. Much different water, but I like perch.

WorkHard has been really helpful with suggestions. I hope to send a prooof of concept pic.  This is a great group of folks. If “catching” was the main goal many of us would have kept PBs.   If I can’t figure out how to attach a file with dimensions, shot me a pm and I’ll send copies.  Still have a goal of meeting and catching a fish fry with Mojo.  He might have no idea how important what he does is to many folks.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2018, 10:17:15 PM by Trident 13 »


Trident 13

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Kent
  • Date Registered: Jul 2016
  • Posts: 791

I've attached the plans and it looks like it downloads fine.  Send me a PM or email if anyone has questions and I'll shoot a phone number.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2018, 09:25:02 AM by Trident 13 »


 

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