3D Prints for Kayak Fishing

I know a few of us have ventured into the realm of 3D printing.  I thought this would be a good thread to post kayak fishing related prints you've created, printed, or simply just found on places like Thingiverse.

 

I’ll start..

I made a bait helmet for cutplug shad. 

I’ll start..

I made a bait helmet for cutplug shad.

Wonder what a thresher shark or GW would think?

You could use a skateboard as the flasher.

This is mostly just a novelty item.  I want to hang one of these with a shad off a big rod (out of the water) on the back of my kayak while fishing B10. I'm sure it would get some looks from power boaters.

his is mostly just a novelty item.  I want to hang one of these with a shad off a big rod (out of the water) on the back of my kayak while fishing B10. I'm sure it would get some looks from power boaters.

OK, now that's funny.  Friends we were with near Illwaco said there were lots of boats out there on Saturday.

 

This is mostly just a novelty item.  I want to hang one of these with a shad off a big rod (out of the water) on the back of my kayak while fishing B10. I'm sure it would get some looks from power boaters.

Ho-Lee-Chit that’s funny.... get some GoPro footage. I love it.
Make one for a plug cut salmon and market it as a bait helmet for catching seals! 

...
Make one for a plug cut salmon and market it as a bait helmet for catching seals! 

 

Brian,

Thanks for starting this thread.  I've been looking in to 3D printing, and searching for the CAD specs for the gears on scotty rod mounts.  The circular pie shaped cut out on the rod holder itself that rotates when you loosen up the bolt.  I've seen a few Scotty items on thinkverse, but nothing on the gears.

For you veteran 3D guys, how hard would it be to "copy" that gear design and incorporate it into another project design?  Do the specs exist on the web somewhere?

Thanks,

Cosmo

Hey Cosmo,

I would recommend learning some CAD software.  You can start this well before you even purchase a 3D printer.   There are lot of free programs, but Autodesk's Fusion 360 is a bit of profressional software and if you dig around a bit, you can find the instructions on how to sign up for a hobbyist license  (i.e. $300/yr software for free).

I would also get a pair of digital calipers.   (Side note.. "The Perfectionists" by Simon Winchester is a great book about the role of improvements in precision, accuracy, tolerance in creating the modern world). 

Things like the gear like linkage on Scotty rod holders actually wouldn't be too hard to design.  Once you have the proper dimensions figured out, the radially symmetry of it all means you design the tooth once and spread it around so that there are 16 or so of them along the circumference of the piece.

The real trick is that you would need to find a filament that can tolerate the stresses that part might experience.   The easiest filament to print is PLA (Polylactic Acid) which is basically that corn based plastic that was once marketed as "compostable".  However, it's a bit frail.  Other plastics like ABS and nylon can also be printed, but are more difficult to dial in and require heated beds and enclosed cabinets.   I haven't ventured down that path yet.

Brian

Here is the link to the free Fusion 360. It is what I use to design my parts. It seems hard at first, but google finds you all the answers. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/free-trial?mktvar002=724886&mkwid=scH36jAXh|pcrid|226118724211|pkw|fusion%20360%20free%20for%20hobbyist|pmt|e|pdv|c|slid||pgrid|52854165008|ptaid|kwd-296858597205|&intent=US-Fusion360-BR&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=GGL_FUSION360_US_BR_SEM_EXACT%3EBrand+Plus&utm_term=fusion%20360%20free%20for%20hobbyist&utm_content=scH36jAXh|pcrid|226118724211|pkw|fusion%20360%20free%20for%20hobbyist|pmt|e|pdv|c|slid||pgrid|52854165008|ptaid|kwd-296858597205|&addisttype=g&gclid=CjwKCAjw-8nbBRBnEiwAqWt1zSEYA4vYQe3qcDi0ybG7xnSKRuFPgrmmQaUPcwP5AqsMHs7uZbZ1txoCvxgQAvD_BwE

The trial is free for 30 days, but when that’s over you want to register as a hobbyist which will give you another year free.  You can repeat the hobbyist license until your 3D printing becomes your fulltime job and start making money.

Who wants to make some replacement Skid Plates for my Coosa and Tetra? How durable is the material?

For you veteran 3D guys, how hard would it be to "copy" that gear design and incorporate it into another project design?  Do the specs exist on the web somewhere?

I use OpenSCAD which is completely free, but it's command line based which is not for everyone. I just wrote some code in 10 minutes to make the tooth pattern, so that can now be used to make anything that matches it. I'll add that this model will probably need to be tweeked to make it fit correctly. Fortunately all I have to do it change some variables to make the teeth thinner or change the ID or OD. Once the model is good I can copy the model file to any project that needs it. I can also create negatives and so on.

3D printing is mostly for prototyping. You can make full strength parts, but you'd be better off making a mold of the 3D printed part and casting the full strength part in resin if you want something that lasts. And if you're going to make a mold, you can just make a mold of the mating parts you have in this case.

Hey Cosmo,

I would recommend learning some CAD software.  You can start this well before you even purchase a 3D printer.   There are lot of free programs, but Autodesk's Fusion 360 is a bit of profressional software and if you dig around a bit, you can find the instructions on how to sign up for a hobbyist license  (i.e. $300/yr software for free).

I would also get a pair of digital calipers.   (Side note.. "The Perfectionists" by Simon Winchester is a great book about the role of improvements in precision, accuracy, tolerance in creating the modern world). 

Things like the gear like linkage on Scotty rod holders actually wouldn't be too hard to design.  Once you have the proper dimensions figured out, the radially symmetry of it all means you design the tooth once and spread it around so that there are 16 or so of them along the circumference of the piece.

The real trick is that you would need to find a filament that can tolerate the stresses that part might experience.   The easiest filament to print is PLA (Polylactic Acid) which is basically that corn based plastic that was once marketed as "compostable".  However, it's a bit frail.  Other plastics like ABS and nylon can also be printed, but are more difficult to dial in and require heated beds and enclosed cabinets.   I haven't ventured down that path yet.

Brian

Brian,

Thanks for the information. It sounds complicated.  Actually what I want to design is the other end of that gear, the female end that bolts onto the piece you have above, so it will fit onto that fitting.  I suppose the process would be similar to what you described above.

Thanks for the information.

Cosmo

Actually what I want to design is the other end of that gear, the female end that bolts onto the piece you have above, so it will fit onto that fitting.

Something like this...