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Topic: My D.I.Y. Cobra Drift Anchor  (Read 73297 times)

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PNW

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Stoked to see so much interest in drift anchors on this site.  I have started making my newest ones out of relatively light steel with enough kick to get the anchor all the way out of the water.  Here is a pic...
I'm wondering if the top bolts could be turned around & wing nuts used to make this configuration easily removable? I'd be real interested in that.


SBD

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All six bolts screw into the stock threaded rudder mounts.  You can take it off in less than a minute, even faster with a Makita.  Here is another angle...



PNW

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All six bolts screw into the stock threaded rudder mounts.  You can take it off in less than a minute, even faster with a Makita.  Here is another angle...
Pardon my ignorance, but what are stock threaded rudder mounts? Do you put the bolts back in after removal so the the yak won't take on water?


INSAYN

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Spot and anyone else local to me that plans to use the Unistrut or similar material, and want a solid permanent attachement at the "T" joint, just let me know.  I have da tools to get're done!  I can also very easly make that notch with my plasma cutter in seconds. 


Thanks for the offer!  I think I'll probably take you up on this.

Maybe we can collaborate on a design for our Tridents also.....


Absolutely!   :thumbsup:
 

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Spot

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All six bolts screw into the stock threaded rudder mounts.  You can take it off in less than a minute, even faster with a Makita.  Here is another angle...



Nice!  I'm even more impressed now.
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SBD

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Quote
Pardon my ignorance, but what are stock threaded rudder mounts? Do you put the bolts back in after removal so the the yak won't take on water?

Most SOTs have a number of threaded lugs that are cast into them for mounts that need to be strong.  Typical spots would include the rudder and the carry handles.  The threaded lugs are "blind"...in other words the hole doesn't go all the way through so they are always sealed.

These threaded lugs are great for attaching anchors if your yak has them.  The new OKs have six on the stern which is ideal. My old MK boats had two lugs for the handle and two lugs for the rudder which also worked well...

« Last Edit: December 04, 2008, 07:43:16 AM by SBD »


SBD

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My Mini-X only had two lugs for the rear handle.  While it never had any issues, I was never in love with two bolts in a single plane...


« Last Edit: December 04, 2008, 09:30:44 AM by SBD »


SBD

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It never bothered the fish however...


steelheadr

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Quote
Pardon my ignorance, but what are stock threaded rudder mounts? Do you put the bolts back in after removal so the the yak won't take on water?

Most SOTs have a number of threaded lugs that are cast into them for mounts that need to be strong.  Typical spots would include the rudder and the carry handles.  The threaded lugs are "blind"...in other words the hole doesn't go all the way through so they are always sealed.

These threaded lugs are great for attaching anchors if your yak has them.  The new OKs have six on the stern which is ideal. My old MK boats had two lugs for the handle and two lugs for the rudder which also worked well...



I'll look at the rudder mounts on my Big Game. Since I won't be putting a rudder on, a removable drift anchor mount seems ideal.

Thanks to all for the ideas and support,
Jay
"Fast enough to get there...but slow enough to see. Not known for predictability"  Thanks to Jimmy Buffet for describing my life...again



SBD

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Glad to help.  Nice to see yakkers similarly obsessed with river salmonids.


bsteves

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Glad to help.  Nice to see yakkers similarly obsessed with river salmonids.

Sean, that's mostly what we have around here (Portland at least).... rivers and salmonids.  Well.. we also have rivers and sturgeon.  Thanks for pioneering some of this for us down in NorCal, I'm hoping some of will see some decent steelhead action this winter.

Brian
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PNW

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Quote
Pardon my ignorance, but what are stock threaded rudder mounts? Do you put the bolts back in after removal so the the yak won't take on water?

Most SOTs have a number of threaded lugs that are cast into them for mounts that need to be strong.  Typical spots would include the rudder and the carry handles.  The threaded lugs are "blind"...in other words the hole doesn't go all the way through so they are always sealed.

These threaded lugs are great for attaching anchors if your yak has them.  The new OKs have six on the stern which is ideal. My old MK boats had two lugs for the handle and two lugs for the rudder which also worked well...
Thanx. I've got an early model Cobra Fish n' Dive. Doesn't have the built in mounts, so I'd have to drill holes & secure the mount so it wouldn't leak or work loose. Spot's configuration may be what I'd have to go with, but for now I think I'll install the quick release anchor/float system. I like the way the drift anchor hangs free from the yak though. I'll stay tuned & keep learning. It's sounding like the the innovations have just begun. Hmm... wonder how the free hanging drift & quick release anchor/float systems could be combined? Creative minds produce excellent results!


SBD

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The Cobra stern is a whole 'nuther critter.  If you look at page 2 of this thread... http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,6672.0.html you can see a few different Cobra mounts.  My good friend Fishshim's is really nicely made and works very well.


INSAYN

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If folks can round up their own lead, I can make the mold for pouring pyramid anchors pretty easily.  I have made one for another feller on IFish.com that would make up to at least 75 lb anchors.  Heating and pouring 50+ lbs of lead is dangerous, but 5-20lbs isn't too bad.  The mold I made was such that the bottom of the anchor was flat instead of pointed.  Made it less likely to dent the floor of a boat when brought on board.

 

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bsteves

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Ten lb drift boat anchors run about $20-25 at places like Joes and Fisherman's Marine.  They're a little pricey, but convenient.   

If anyone has a bunch of lead already though, INSAYN's offer would might save you some money. 
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anything