Mirage drive woes--help please

The other day my mirage drive (older revo13 w/V2 drive) started clunking and not working properly. It seemed like one of the fins was skipping or slipping. The whole kayak would torque to one side. I could get it to "catch" again and it would kinda work if I took it easy on the pedals. I did a little research and replaced all the nylock nuts making sure the cables were pretty snug without over tightening. Took it out again yesterday and same thing right off the bat. I'm thinking it's an issue with the sprocket slipping or something along those lines. I fished with it yesterday regardless (caught some nice rockfish [released], a couple keeper greenling, and couple of smaller lings [released also]--first ling for me).

Anyway, I want to get back out asap since coho season is gonna be short (my opportunities at least). Am I asking for trouble if I disassemble this myself? How fussy are these to assemble and get working properly? Does anyone have any areas they think I should focus on?

Thanks much.

Check your Idler pulley.  It could either be cracked, or the pulley shaft has slipped out.

BTW, the V2 Mirage drive isn't made with any kind of special rocket science.  If you have a basic understanding of mechanical stuff, you should be able to fully field strip it down to its underwear, find any worn or broken parts, replace said parts, and get it put back together without issue in short order. 

The GT model is a bit more complex with the needle bearings, but works the same way. 

Thanks.

I just went out to the garage to look at the idler pulley (it seems fine). I was trying to replicate the problem out of the water with the fins between my knees and pushing the pedals. Popped a tooth off of one of the sprockets. I didn't realize the were plastic (probably old and fatigued). I think there are a couple of others missing up at the top where it's hard to see. I guess I'll be ordering some new sprockets. What other parts should I replace while I'm at it? I may pick up an idler pulley and those covers on either side of the sprocket are a little banged up...

Thanks.

I just went out to the garage to look at the idler pulley (it seems fine). I was trying to replicate the problem out of the water with the fins between my knees and pushing the pedals. Popped a tooth off of one of the sprockets. I didn't realize the were plastic (probably old and fatigued). I think there are a couple of others missing up at the top where it's hard to see. I guess I'll be ordering some new sprockets. What other parts should I replace while I'm at it? I may pick up an idler pulley and those covers on either side of the sprocket are a little banged up...

May as well order up a full set of cables as well.  Even if you don't install them this round, you'll have them as spares.  Hobie seems to require $5 shipping on all of their orders, so I tend to just order everything once and spend that $5 once.

Oh boy.


Yup 2 new sprockets are in order. Both are missing some teeth. This one is fubar. It only has 4 teeth left (all on one side).

A couple more questions (if you'd be kind enough):

1) Any tips on getting the masts out of the sprocket? A little heat on the mast? WD40? Don't want to trash those. Thinking maybe they were loc-tited at some point.
2) Where to buy? Looks like Austin Kayak has some of the parts but maybe not all. Better off buying direct from Hobie? Is that possible?
3) Shaft is a little worn--might replace while I have it apart. Cable ends have a bit of rust but not terrible, chains seem fine, Probably replace the idler pully as it looks kind of "tired" and is the same material as the sprockets.
4) Am I doing something wrong to break these teeth? I read that too long a stroke can cause the fins to hit the yak. I'm tallish and had the pedals set all the way out (position 7). Maybe I should back it off a step?

Thanks again. Bummer, I'd hoped to go out tomorrow. Might be rainy for a few days though. May be a blessing in my case!!!

You could apply head to the masts, and let it soak down to the threads, but since you are already replacing those parts, a little melted plastic won't hurt.

WD40 is useless in this situation.  It is not the best for penetrating oils available.  If it's Lock-Tite, no oil is going to help.  Acetone soaking the threads if the heat doesn't budge it.

Hey, Andy, I'm no help with the rebuild, but just a note: I found that my Revo 13 with the V2 drive and turbo fins was faster in the water with a short stroke on the pedals (and less tiring to me, too).  I started out pedaling all the way, then after watching some online videos where I could see the pedals, I noticed that most folks were using maybe half of the distance the pedals could travel.  That was about right for me, and I changed how I pedaled.  YMMV.

Hey, Andy, I'm no help with the rebuild, but just a note: I found that my Revo 13 with the V2 drive and turbo fins was faster in the water with a short stroke on the pedals (and less tiring to me, too).  I started out pedaling all the way, then after watching some online videos where I could see the pedals, I noticed that most folks were using maybe half of the distance the pedals could travel.  That was about right for me, and I changed how I pedaled.  YMMV.

Thanks. I'll have to give that a try. I was kind of doing that yesterday as it seemed to work better. Probably because I was missing all the teeth on one side of one of the sprockets!

May as well order up a full set of cables as well.  Even if you don't install them this round, you'll have them as spares.  Hobie seems to require $5 shipping on all of their orders, so I tend to just order everything once and spend that $5 once.

What's up with Hobie's website? You can't click on any of the items to order and I don't see any kind of shopping cart. Do I need to call them? What is this 1950? Do I need to fill out an order form and mail it in?

Looks like there's stuff that's discontinued too. I don't really want to order a sprocket kit with the masts (they only list that with standard fin masts and I have turbo) I guess that means I have to pay for masts I'll never use and already have spares of? I read that you can use GT sprockets and masts but they cost more and I wonder if they're that much better.

There are also part number discrepancies between their parts diagram and their website.


Grrr...Just a little rant, I'll work it out.


Thanks again for all your advice though, much obliged.

A quick look and I see that the V2 sprockets seem to be discontinued/out of stock everywhere, and the GT is where it's at.  Yoy may want to consider just purchasing the bits to upgrade to the GT drive?

A quick look and I see that the V2 sprockets seem to be discontinued/out of stock everywhere, and the GT is where it's at.  Yoy may want to consider just purchasing the bits to upgrade to the GT drive?

Guess that's what I'll do. Doesn't make a lot of sense to not replace the two shafts (sprocket and idler) for the fairly low cost. Maybe the hub shaft too. They all have some scoring and wear. Probably gonna be close to $400

Oh well, I'm sure I'll catch a lot more fish now

What's up with Hobie's website? You can't click on any of the items to order and I don't see any kind of shopping cart. Do I need to call them? What is this 1950? Do I need to fill out an order form and mail it in?

Hobie only sells through retailers, not directly to customers.  Contact Next Adventure or another Hobie dealer for parts.

Dan_E

Hey, Andy, I'm no help with the rebuild, but just a note: I found that my Revo 13 with the V2 drive and turbo fins was faster in the water with a short stroke on the pedals (and less tiring to me, too).  I started out pedaling all the way, then after watching some online videos where I could see the pedals, I noticed that most folks were using maybe half of the distance the pedals could travel.  That was about right for me, and I changed how I pedaled.  YMMV.

If your fishfinder has GPS features, monitor your speed while you try different styles of pedaling to determine which pedaling style provides the best speed and easiest and most comfortable operation.  If your fishfinder doesn't have GPS features, use a hand-held GPS.  I have found that a long slow pedal stroke provides me with a higher maximum speed than a short fast stroke.  When trolling, where I try to maintain a speed of around 1.5 mph, I tend to automatically use a short fast stroke. I have to remind myself that a longer and slower stroke will let me maintain that speed with less effort.

A quick look and I see that the V2 sprockets seem to be discontinued/out of stock everywhere, and the GT is where it's at.  Yoy may want to consider just purchasing the bits to upgrade to the GT drive?

Guess that's what I'll do. Doesn't make a lot of sense to not replace the two shafts (sprocket and idler) for the fairly low cost. Maybe the hub shaft too. They all have some scoring and wear. Probably gonna be close to $400

Oh well, I'm sure I'll catch a lot more fish now

I tried out a friend's Revolution, which has a GT drive, and was amazed at how much less friction the drive had than my well-lubricated V2 drive.  If my V2 drive developed significant problems, I'd upgrade to at least a GT drive, rather than replacing a bunch of parts on my V2 drive.  You might be able to find a used GT drive sitting in the garage of somebody who upgraded to the current drive.
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