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Picture Of The Month



SD2OR with a trophy fall walleye

Topic: Cooler /Kill Bag from Scratch  (Read 10707 times)

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Zach.Dennis

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2015
  • Posts: 799
I currently own a kill bag that is 2 sided that I got from Fishermans for $30 bucks.  This has done me well and keeps the fish cold.  However, I have trouble accessing it while I am on the water.  I typically end up leaving it in the car and only utilize it while driving home.  While out on the water I like to kill my fish and bleed them.  I typically end up throwing them in the tank well and dipping them in the ocean or river when I happen to be thinking of it to cool them off from the suns rays.  I may be a fish snob but i prefer my fish to be as cold as possible as soon as it is bled out.  I have looked for a bag that can stand up by itself as well as  stand up to the elements of ocean fishing and me being quite rough on it- as I tend to be rough on gear.  However, I am far too frugal to pay a lot for a cooler bag lol.  At ORC, I saw some of the triangle orange cooler bags that Craig and John have and was amazed by how easy they could access them on the water.  After talking to them I found out that the coolers were hand made by someone who no longer makes them.  I always like to try and make things myself and decided I wanted to make one similar.  I searched high and low and found a local retailer that had the heavy duty PVC fabric that I wanted to use for the bag.  I bought enough material to make two bags and am hoping to either keep one as a backup bag or sell the other to recoup cost.  I am thinking of making the first bag roughly 15x30x15 triangle bag, the second one will be more of a trapezoidal bag that will fit the Outback TankWell, 22x22x14.  The bag will hopefully be waterproof everywhere but the zipper top.  This cooler will stand so storing it so the zipper wont leak should not be a problem.  The waterproof zippers were $80 for 36”.  This was way too much for my frugal self.  However it could be easily changed in if someone wanted to.  My goal is to get 24-36 hours of ice retainage and so that it will not be punctured by rockfish spines
Below is a listing of Materials.  I thought others may be interested in the project so I will post materials and pictures of my progress.  It should take 2-3 days to complete.
-1 ½ yard 22 oz PVC Vinyl in Orange (Outside Layer- High visibility and not a dark color for cooling- they had limited colors and it looked best)
-1 ½ yard 34 oz PVC Vinyl in Black (Inside Layer-This is super thick stuff and should not allow rock spines to puncture- at least that’s the hope 😊. Only had one color at this thickness- hoping it will pull heat from the fish)
-H-66- Vinyl Welding Glue (Welds the fabric together keeping everything waterproof with no needles 😊)
-5 lbs of Polyester filling
-10 Stainless Steel 1” D-ring (Used for clips to attach to kayak)
-2 36” X-Strong Zipper
-4 X-Strong Zippers (This will allow me to zip from each side of the bag for easy access)
-Polyester Thread Outdoor Specialty Thread  (To Attach the zipper to the bag)
-1 pack Needles (Sz 3/9- this will allow the smallest hole for the thread keeping it from leaking through the zipper area)

I will update this with pictures of my progress.  I hope to have this completed by this weekend fishing trip.

Tonight i will cut and glue the peices together to prep for insulation.  I will need to let it rest for 24 hours.  Then i will glue the peices together and turn it inside out so it will have proper seams.


« Last Edit: August 07, 2018, 03:01:02 PM by Zach.Dennis »
2021 1st Place ORC
2023 1st Place ORC


YippieKaiyak

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Hillsboro, OR
  • Date Registered: Feb 2017
  • Posts: 349
That sounds like a great idea.  I've had mediocre luck getting into mine without turning around.  Expanding the base to fit the hull makes sense.  Can't wait to see your progress.
Kayaking without wearing a PFD is like drunk driving.  You can get away with it for a while, but eventually someone dies.


Zach.Dennis

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2015
  • Posts: 799
That sounds like a great idea.  I've had mediocre luck getting into mine without turning around.  Expanding the base to fit the hull makes sense.  Can't wait to see your progress.

Yeah i like the top entry.  The one i own i have to mess with it top open it up.  I will post pictures of the progress tonight or tomorrow morning.
2021 1st Place ORC
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Matt M

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Tigard
  • Date Registered: Mar 2016
  • Posts: 1236
I like your idea and will be following along. For rockfish I generally like the Costco freezer bags, they only last about a season, but for $6 it's hard to beat it.
-Matt

Old Town Sportsman 120 PDL


Zach.Dennis

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2015
  • Posts: 799
I like your idea and will be following along. For rockfish I generally like the Costco freezer bags, they only last about a season, but for $6 it's hard to beat it.

Haha I am a fellow cheapskate.

All of the parts were relaticly inexpensive and will hopefully last longer and do a better job than the Costco bags.  I hope this will last 5-10 seasons.  This will come down to about the same cost.  Materials per bag was around $30-35
« Last Edit: August 07, 2018, 03:06:01 PM by Zach.Dennis »
2021 1st Place ORC
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Cosmo

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Integrity-It's What You Do When No One's Looking
  • DADventurerNW
  • Location: Tualatin, Oregon
  • Date Registered: Mar 2013
  • Posts: 518
Zach,

This is a great idea.  There was an old thread last year that I started and Insayin chimed in with some great advice.  I was looking for a top entry kill bag, like the ones they used to sell at Hoggs, before they went out of business.  And the guy that made them for Hoggs quit making them.  His bags were awesome, great size for kayaks, and top entry.

I designed a few models as well, but had trouble with two things, finding the raw materials, I was looking for the material they use to make inflatable pontoons with, and the second issue was finding a reasonably priced sewing machine that could handle the material.

How are you planning to sew your bag together?

I think there is a market for these things, just nobody making them for us anymore.

I've resorted to an XL Icemule kill bag that is front entry.  I strap it to the front of my Outback with half a dozen frozen water bottles in it.  I can get 3 chinook or 4 coho in there without too much trouble.

Keep us posted with your progress.
Cosmo
2 Hobie Mirage Outbacks 2014


no_oil_needed

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Lake Washington
  • Date Registered: May 2013
  • Posts: 256
Stay well ventilated. HH-66 is REALLY strong stuff as far as vapors go. Make sure you rough up the mating surfaces and solvent clean the areas (99% isopropyl works in a pinch). HH-66 is cement so it'll dissolve some of the PVC, and it makes a strong bond after a 24 hour cure. Looking forward to seeing the end result.
Relax. You'll live longer.


bb2fish

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Oregon
  • Date Registered: Feb 2013
  • Posts: 1499
great project -- I'm definitely following this "thread" since I want to do something similar.  I'll be interested to know what sewing tool you're using for the thick fabrics or if those seams will be glued and only the zippers sewn in?? 

Great Job Frugal You.


Zach.Dennis

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2015
  • Posts: 799
  Attached is a picture of what I have referenced to you as the triangle kill bag from Craig and John. I believe this was the one sold at hoggs.
The fabric was very hard to source. And when I finally found it I found out that lots of local kill bag makers are using the same source. I don't want to put it online to not ruin all of their business. There are several online stores. Just search PVC fabric.. Just shoot me a PM and we can chat on the side aswell. The fabric is PVC coated and really heavy duty stuff. The h66 will melt them together and make a watertight seal. The store owners were very helpful and let me know how to do it. So I hope to share some of that knowledge here.   The bag will not need to be sewed only glued. And then turned it inside out to make nice seems. The only part that will need to be sewed on is the zipper. That will be on the top of the kill bag. I wanted to cement the zipper on to but that zipper cost too much money and it would put me over budget. I am headed to a fishing seminar tonight. Once I get back I plan on cutting and gluing some tonight. I'll post an update in the morning with pictures and what I have learned. Also going to put in a zipper pouch in the front of the bag. If anybody has any extra ideas I would gladly appreciate it. Hoping to share what I have learned so others can do the same.  Sorry if this is littered with spelling errors. I am using talk to text on my phone. Taking my daughter to the dentist.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2018, 09:11:31 AM by Zach.Dennis »
2021 1st Place ORC
2023 1st Place ORC


  • Location: The Gorge
  • Date Registered: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 697
Hilarious that this thread pops up on the day I get a Katch Cooler in the mail. I squeezed it into the front hatch of my Revo for tomorrow and Thursday at PC. It fits and I'll put a few ice bottles to keep any salmon cool I should be lucky to catch.

I am NOT going to use it for rockfish though. I don't want spines sticking into it and puncturing it to no end. For that I grommeted some bubble insulation within a chicken feed bag (that tough plastic bag feed pellets come in) and bungeed it behind my seat to protect any fish from the sun. I'll put a burlap bag on the fish and the insulated cover over that. Should do the trick hopefully.

They do have those hard rubber carriers that might be the next level in my catch cooler evolution. I'll have to see how the insulated cover works for those spiny rockfish first (and hopefully a big cabbie).

Fred "True" Trujillo
"This above all: to thine own self, be true, and it must follow, as the day the night, thou canst not then be false to any man."


Zach.Dennis

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2015
  • Posts: 799
Stay well ventilated. HH-66 is REALLY strong stuff as far as vapors go. Make sure you rough up the mating surfaces and solvent clean the areas (99% isopropyl works in a pinch). HH-66 is cement so it'll dissolve some of the PVC, and it makes a strong bond after a 24 hour cure. Looking forward to seeing the end result.

Thanks for letting me know. I had planned to do it in my living room. Now I will do it in the garage with the door closed so no one knows I am huffing the fumes. JUst kidding it will be open so all my neighbors can enjoy too  ;D
2021 1st Place ORC
2023 1st Place ORC


INSAYN

  • ORC_Safety
  • Sturgeon
  • *
  • **RIP...Ron, Ro, AMB, Stephen**
  • Location: Forest Grove, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2008
  • Posts: 5411
Zach,  I completely forgot to get back to you on some pictures of my kill bag.  I'm so sorry for that bro! 
John showed me the other day that you were able to glean some pictures of his, so you should be good to go.

Question regarding Polyfill.

Is this the fluffy packing material used in things like stuffed animals and such?
If so, I'm curious why you decided to go with that rather than a layer of 3/8" or  1/2" thick closed cell foam.
From what I can feel on our orange bags, the closed cell foam is 3/8" thick and works awesome for insulation, and more importantly vertical rigidity.  The PVC coated material is stiff, but it will loosen up over time and allow the bag to flex pretty easily.

The Polyfill might do two things on you:
1. End up settling near the bottom edges of the bag.
2. Not allow enough rigidity to keep the bag from collapsing on itself once the material gets soft in the sun, or just softer from general use.

A third issue might also pop up if you ever wear a hole in the outside fabric.  This would be the entry of water if it sits in any in the tank well.  My bag has worn areas in the corners and I'm sure this is one area water gets in between the layers on it. 
I am able to rinse with diluted bleach from the top corners where the zippers end.  For some reason this looks like a nightmare to sew up, so it made a natural area to be able to run the hose and add clean water/bleach to rinse it out. Then just set it over a chair to drain back out and dry on it's own.
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


Zach.Dennis

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2015
  • Posts: 799
Insayn,

The pictures john sent were great. You nailed my biggest worry. The filler is not ideal. But again I am super frugal. The foam was pushing 60 bucks at Joanne fabric for the 2 bags. So I went with the cheap filler. It is the poly instead of cotton so it should not soak up water and should remains dry. It also says it won't bunch as it is made into sheets. If I make future bags and have thefunds I would  do closed cell foam and could have probably sourced some online for cheaper.

I may gut the bag from fishermans and use some of the foam or use some styrofoam to help with the rigidity. I used to work st a place that would give me closed cell foam for free but now i can't get it and that stuff is spendy. I tried to keep both bags under 80 for everything on materials as I am in a toddler budget lol. If I had an extra 100 I would make it fully waterproof with that zipper and by closed cell foam. The zipper that is waterproof is identical to the one found on kokotat dry suits.
« Last Edit: August 07, 2018, 06:05:20 PM by Zach.Dennis »
2021 1st Place ORC
2023 1st Place ORC


INSAYN

  • ORC_Safety
  • Sturgeon
  • *
  • **RIP...Ron, Ro, AMB, Stephen**
  • Location: Forest Grove, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2008
  • Posts: 5411
Being totally waterproof isn't really a priority in my opinion, so trying to plan for that can make it more difficult.

Our orange bags are sewn not glued, so we just use seam sealer every so often to reduce the amount of water that seeps into the inner workings of the bag.

You can find closed cell foam from other used sources like boy scout style PFD's, sleeping pads, and other stuff at garage sales, Goodwill, Craigslist etc.
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


Zach.Dennis

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2015
  • Posts: 799
So I got the pieces cut for the two bags and will begin the first part of the glueing tomorrow. For the inside I am going to weave together a bunch of strips of closed cell foam from pool noodles from the dollar store. I know it sounds cheap but with a tight weave and the poly filling I think it will work well and add structure. This beats the high prices of closed cell foam sheets.  Attached are the pictures of my cuts.  I would try to peice together some foam but I am needing quite a bit of it and think it is the best route. If I build more going forward I can reach out to my old contacts at work and see if I could get a deal. 

 If I cut the pool noodle into several one inch strips and do a super tight weave and then layer each side with poly I think it will be good for ice and add structure. What do you guys think? 
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