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Swede P's first AOTY fish is a bruiser!

Topic: Want/Need Advice for Transducer and Trolly set-up  (Read 1273 times)

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kenner

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: Springfield, OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2019
  • Posts: 8
Hi All!
I have a NuCanoe Frontier 12

From some research, I'm seeing that maybe my simple sonar/Lowrance Elite-4, would be best, positioned towards the bow, rather than aft, mid-ship.

I also want to mount an anchor trolley, probably on the same side, to the right, as I cast right-handed.

This craft comes with a zig-zag cleat for an anchor line, mounted on the inside of the chine.

Two questions,, or more... :

If I mount my anchor trolley on the same side as my FF transducer, how far out/how much clearance do I need for my transducer arm??   

Should I mount my transducer, way forward of my anchor trolley mount?

Will this be a problem, fighting fish, if my transducer arm is so far forward?? (I guess I could pull it in, when I hook a big one?)

Since my anchor cleat is already mounted on the inside of the yak, could I just mount the trolley on the outside of the yak, with enough slack, that I could use the inside cleat, w/out adding another on the outside??

Thanks, All!!


nomas

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: NE Portland
  • Date Registered: Mar 2017
  • Posts: 117
I have an F12, as well. Rather than an anchor trolley, I bent a piece of starboard and put an anchor drop off the stern (see pic). Then I just run the anchor line up to the cleat. I’ve anchored in current on rivers like the Wilson with this set up just like a drift boat with no problem. That said, I have an anchor trolley on my hobie and like that I can anchor facing upriver or downriver when I’m wobbler or plug fishing on the hook.

As far as the transducer arm (assuming you’re talking about an over-the-side arm), I’d say put it on the side you won’t usually net fish. That way you’re less likely to get caught on it. I don’t use a trolley on my F12, but I know having my net side clear of fish finder, rod holder, etc is really nice when trying to net any salmon.


kenner

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: Springfield, OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2019
  • Posts: 8
Thank you for this!!  I will use this, when I'm river fishing, which I do.  :=)

I'm wanting to use my NC/yak for nearshore, saltwater and trying to figure out how to position my over-the-side transducer.

I noticed your "cart"... Do you like it????  I'm planning on building a variation of this, using the wheels that came with my NuCanoe: 


nomas

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: NE Portland
  • Date Registered: Mar 2017
  • Posts: 117
In truth, I hate all kayak carts.  The hobie scupper hole cart is a pain to put in and take out - especially with the boat loaded with gear.  I blew money on the nucanoe transom hole cart, and while it is by FAR the easiest to put in and take out, the fact that it is out the stern of the boat makes the boat MUCH heavier to tow by the bow handle - especially when loaded with gear.  It also makes me feel like the handle is going to tear out, just so damn heavy.

I got the c-tug so I could move the wheels further forward to lessen the strain of towing it - mission accomplished there - but getting it under the boat and centered is a colossal pain in the A.  I just purchased some 1.5" PVC to bolt on top of the c-tug which will fit inside the hull tracking cavities.  Saw that online, so I'm gonna see if it makes getting the cart lined up under the boat any easier.  The online idea I stole it from claims it makes a big difference.

One other thing to mention about the c-tug, if you go that way: the wheels have little clips that make them really easy to take-off / put-on, but that also makes them just fall off anytime you pick the cart up.  It's hilarious how quick they are to fall off.  I almost lost one to the bottom of a river when picking it up, so I put "saftey" wire through the clips to keep the wheels on.


kenner

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: Springfield, OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2019
  • Posts: 8
Agree.. the wheels at the back are kinda cool, but this boat is heavy to haul by the bow.
Soooooo I built the following to load my decoys and hunting gear in.  Works great!!
It's made of pressure treated wood and the long piece is the kickstand, making it easy to load the boat on!


nomas

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: NE Portland
  • Date Registered: Mar 2017
  • Posts: 117
Wow, great idea.  The only downside from my perspective would be carrying it with you.  When I drift coastal rivers, like the Wilson example I used, the take out is pretty narrow, lousy, and busy, so having wheels with me is a nice benefit.  I can arrive at the ramp and have the boat on wheels and pulled out of the way before any drift boats and boat trailers start barking at me.


kenner

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: Springfield, OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2019
  • Posts: 8
The wheels are held on with pins and can be popped off.
While I made this super duty, using joist hangers, you could just as easily use carriage bolts and wing nuts.
The kickstand and small guide block are just for keepin' the yak from slipping sideways.
I may have to take this thing apart this summer and make it more portable.
I set it on the back of my NC, but it IS wide!
If you'd like, I can get you some measurements in the next couple of days and you can adjust to your needs.
I used big wheels, so I could push this, like a cart, with my dekes and gun atop.  I put eye bolts just inside the wheels on the cross member, where I hook my ratchet straps.


kenner

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: Springfield, OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2019
  • Posts: 8
Cross beam is 47"  Too wide!  This is my first attempt and I wanted to leave lots of wiggle room.
Wheels, from Amazon, 20"x2", though for my beach cart, I'll use the wheels from my NuCanoe trolley
The kickstand is 24" and the small guide is 8".

The wheels are pinned at the back of the shaft, along/on the cross member.  ** It would be better to reverse this and have the bolt head on the cross member, with the holding pin on the outside.

Again.. This is overbuilt!!  Take the design and run!!!

Oh!!  NuCanoe has a new handle for the bow.  I found that trying to haul the boat, from the front, caused the point of the bow to hit my hand... not fun... gotta figure something else out.

Hope this helps!

Again.. I'm going to make a beach trolley of ABS/PVC, using a kickstand.  I won't glue it together, so I can take it apart.


kenner

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: Springfield, OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2019
  • Posts: 8
My Over-built Trolley Axle, for a NuCanoe Frontier 12



Mojo Jojo

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Suffers from Yakfishiolus Catchyitis
  • Location: Tillamook, Oregon
  • Date Registered: May 2014
  • Posts: 6009
I have an F12, as well. Rather than an anchor trolley, I bent a piece of starboard and put an anchor drop off the stern (see pic). Then I just run the anchor line up to the cleat. I’ve anchored in current on rivers like the Wilson with this set up just like a drift boat with no problem. That said, I have an anchor trolley on my hobie and like that I can anchor facing upriver or downriver when I’m wobbler or plug fishing on the hook.

As far as the transducer arm (assuming you’re talking about an over-the-side arm), I’d say put it on the side you won’t usually net fish. That way you’re less likely to get caught on it. I don’t use a trolley on my F12, but I know having my net side clear of fish finder, rod holder, etc is really nice when trying to net any salmon.
You Stretch Armstrong or Gumby, with the rod holder and net that far back?



Shannon
2013 Jackson Big Tuna "Aircraft Carrier"
2011 Native Mariner Propel "My pickup truck"
2015 Native Slayer Propel "TLW's ride"
20?? Cobra Fish-N-Dive “10yo grandson’s”
20?? Emotion Sparky “5 yr old granddaughter’s”


nomas

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: NE Portland
  • Date Registered: Mar 2017
  • Posts: 117
Oh, the seat swivels all the way around in these boats, and you can stand up and cast or reach for a net without much tipping.  It's a barge.