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Topic: Jigging rod and reel setup  (Read 3290 times)

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rawkfish

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So what WOULD you recommend for braid for jigging?

For beginners on the ocean I tend to recommend a mainline of about 20-30 lb braid.  Those with a couple of years of experience on the salt I recommend 40 to 50.  I have essentially sworn off using anything greater than 50 lb. as it can be downright dangerous to try and break off in a kayak.  I've brought in 80 pound fish on 40 lb line, 40 lb fish on 20 lb line, you get the idea.  Make sure you have a smooth drag so the fish can run if it wants to.
                
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Jrob

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I've brought in 80 pound fish on 40 lb line, 40 lb fish on 20 lb line, you get the idea. 

This is a great point.  I reeled in a 9 foot sturgeon the other day with 50 lb test.  The online weight estimator says that the sturgeon was 400 lbs.  Given that, I doubt I would ever need more than 50 lb braid.



Dark Tuna

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Offshore I use a Daiwa Saltiga G rod and what’s now callled a Seigler reel.  On lakes I grab whatever feels right for the day.

There’s more to it than meets the eye.  How do you hold the rod while sitting in a kayak?  Which reel handle doesn’t bang your PFD every rotation?  Crank lefty or wrongly?  8)

Oh, and of course how far is the bottom (how much cranking for the day)?  Budget?

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BasinYakGuy

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Nice right now my freshwater setup is a Trevala rated for 80-100grams and a Penn Battle II with 35lb power pro and a 15lb fluorocarbon leader.

I just recently bought a more stout trevala and a shimano Thunnus CI4 8000 reel that i plan to use with 50lb braid and a 20-25lb leader for lings etc in the salt. I really liked the live bait option of the Thunnus as well.
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Trident 13

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If I'm not mistaken, which happens more often recently, the Penn Battle II doesn't have a reverse level so you can "unwind" as you continue to make contact with the bottom.  Being able to do so it a great feature when drifting over a ledge.  Whatever reel I use, I look for a reversible/direct drive so I can easily pay out a little more line to maintain contact with the bottom.

While not a sport for all, and with recognized hazards and required gloves, hand lining for bottom fish can be pretty exciting.  This is a 1 foot wide board that's a quick rewind.  I wear gloves and DO NOT WRAP LINE AROUND HANDS. This allows me to toss it immediately if needed and it unwinds back to the surface.  The braided lines really let you feel the jig bouncing and there's little doubt if you have a hit!
Real Men complete the whole fight holding only the hand-pins, but that can be hard on the chin on a big run and I've not found the smooth spot for the drag using this technique.  But, you can always toss it and come back and pick it up after it quits dancing on the water.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2018, 12:51:16 PM by Trident 13 »


Tinker

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You're right, the Penn Battle does not have a reverse lever.  None of the Penn reels I've seen have a reverse lever.
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no_oil_needed

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If I'm not mistaken, which happens more often recently, the Penn Battle II doesn't have a reverse level so you can "unwind" as you continue to make contact with the bottom.  Being able to do so it a great feature when drifting over a ledge.  Whatever reel I use, I look for a reversible/direct drive so I can easily pay out a little more line to maintain contact with the bottom.

While not a sport for all, and with recognized hazards and required gloves, hand lining for bottom fish can be pretty exciting.  This is a 1 foot wide board that's a quick rewind.  I wear gloves and DO NOT WRAP LINE AROUND HANDS. This allows me to toss it immediately if needed and it unwinds back to the surface.  The braided lines really let you feel the jig bouncing and there's little doubt if you have a hit!
Real Men complete the whole fight holding only the hand-pins, but that can be hard on the chin on a big run and I've not found the smooth spot for the drag using this technique.  But, you can always toss it and come back and pick it up after it quits dancing on the water.

Do you choot 'em?  ;)
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Trident 13

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I like the swamp people, staged as it is, but if you think it's not sporting, try bringing a 10 lb ling up by hand while fishing out of a kayak sometime.  Entertaining enough. :walk:


no_oil_needed

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I have hand lined, but we used 100 pound mono and a Cuban yoyo.
Relax. You'll live longer.


JasonM

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My current jigging rod for salt water is an 8'6" medium heavy Ugly Stik Elite Salmon/Steelhead rod (model number USESCA862MH). The reel is an Okuma Coldwater low profile line counter reel (model 354DLX) with 40-pound Power Pro hi-vis yellow braided line with 20lb (sometimes slightly heavier) fluorocarbon leader. While this provides a very sensitive connection to the jig for detecting strikes, I do sometimes wonder if there needs to be some part of this that has a big more give in it even with the longer rod. I may switch to a mono leader on days where the water isn't perfectly clear.

I can't imagine not using a line counter reel for jigging, as it's almost like cheating when you can see the fish on the fish finder and then drop the jig to exactly that depth within seconds. There's no delay or guesswork from counting pulls or cycles of the line guide (which is usually several feet each) or using the multi-colored braided line (usually also several feet per mark/color) if you have the number right there on top to look at. The low profile version of the Cold Water reels has the thumb bar spool release instead of the lever on the side, too, which is even faster. From the time I see the fish on the fish finder, I can have a jig in front a fish at 50+ feet down within a few seconds using only one hand. I can thumb the spool to stop the descent of the jig and can set the hook, only needing my other hand to turn the handle and start reeling in the fish. This speed is especially nice on fish moving through quickly.

I also have a left-handed reel even though I'm right handed. I like having my stronger arm on the rod to fight fish, and for the extended workout of jigging and then (hopefully) fighting fish it's even more important. I've considered buying two identical setups, one right-handed and one left-handed, for jigging so that I can wear both arms out when the fish are really biting. If I weren't so attached to having a line counter reel, I might get a heavy duty spinning reel so that I could just swap the handle from side to side when needed. The precision of the line counter is just too nice to give up.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2018, 10:14:44 AM by JasonM »


Dawn Patrol

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I have been jigging for salmon a good bit over the winter, first real experience jigging other than squid jigging and buzz bombs. I am using a less snazzy Ugly Stik 7'-7' 6" MH rod, which works great for the jigging bit but becomes more of a challenge when getting the fish close to the boat and in the net. Most of the time jigging conditions have warranted 2-5oz jigs, and unlike when trolling with lighter spoons I find that fish are getting to the surface quicker, still energetic, and it can be a challenge to keep them on with the heavier jigs and the barbless hooks as they can throw the jig/hook. Am planning to get something longer (8'- 8' 6" max) with more flex and/or fast action tip to absorb some of the bouncy salmon fight and increase odds into the net.

I've enjoyed using a Bigger Penn Battle, with either 20 or 40# braid (it's just what I currently have on the two reels I am using). Usually a 2'-3' fluorocarbon leader. Because of seals and because the fish ascend quicker it's been good to have a reel that is burly and fast enough when needed.

The thread Blackmouth from Kayak has some jigging input specific to fishing for salmon. Continuing to test and hone techniques this winter and looking forward to trying in the summer when more fish and bait are in.


gnomodom

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I have a seigler sg with 50lb braid where the color changes ever 20' attached to a 7' 30lb rod that I used back in FL for grouper, snapper, and sailfish. Before that, I either use my salmon rods, or the same boat rod with a different reel.