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by shad
[February 14, 2024, 08:33:25 AM]

Picture Of The Month



SD2OR with a trophy fall walleye

Topic: DIY Battery Box  (Read 101789 times)

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Romanian Redneck

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Could I get away with a 2a? Just curios.
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Lee

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According to the manual, the device draws 250 mA, so 2-amp fuse should work.

Just underneath that notation it recommends a 3-amp

Quote
Current drain at 13.5V (250mA)
Fuse type 3-amp Automotive (not supplied)
 


polepole

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Could I get away with a 2a? Just curios.

Depends on the current draw of your FF.  If your typical current draw is 200 mA, than 2A is likely fine.  If your typical current draw is 1A, then you might find 2A tripping every now and then on current spikes.

-Allen


sherminator

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The fuse is not really for protection of your electronics, it is to limit damage caused by excessive current draw, i.e. stop the melting of wire insulation and kayak hulls. The only way to draw excessive current is for the electronics to be in some type of failure already, or for your wiring to be in some type of failure mode, i.e. corroded contacts or cut insulation. Wiring failure typically won't blow your electronics. The fuse limits damage that has already occurred, it doesn't prevent damage from happening.
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Romanian Redneck

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Bought some 3a. Now I feel better :p
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polepole

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The fuse is not really for protection of your electronics, it is to limit damage caused by excessive current draw, i.e. stop the melting of wire insulation and kayak hulls. The only way to draw excessive current is for the electronics to be in some type of failure already, or for your wiring to be in some type of failure mode, i.e. corroded contacts or cut insulation. Wiring failure typically won't blow your electronics. The fuse limits damage that has already occurred, it doesn't prevent damage from happening.

That's exactly what I was thinking and trying to say.  Thanks for the reenforcement.   ;)

-Allen


sherminator

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Allen - you did say it pretty clearly. I just like being redundant  :)

Also, as I have caused dozens of fuses to blow and circuit breakers to trip, and found the causes of many more, I have a pretty thorough understanding of fuses and what they will and will not do. The belief that fuses will prevent electronics from frying is both common and false, so I just jump to that explanation any time someone brings up the subject of fuses.
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CraigVM62

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This is my version of Battery Box LITE

Granted,  I could easily afford to shed a few extra pounds by going to the gym,  I like the idea of eliminating any weight that I can on the Kayak.   
Instead of going with a conventional sealed 12 volt battery,  I want to utilize a Li-ion or Li-po battery for the weight savings.    I have experimented and found when fully charged at 12.45 volts,  I can run my Cuda 350 for 10 hours  with the voltage dropping to 11.5 volts.  It should easily cover me for up to a 2 day trip without needing to be charged
 The protective circuit in the battery will turn off when the battery drops to 10.4 volts to protect the cells as well as protecting from over charging.   It also has a built in On / Off Switch with a bright LED indicator.


 
The entire battery and box weighs about 1/10th that of the 4 Ah battery "shown on the left"  that I was going to use.  The extra room I now have in the box can be used for keeping things like my cell phone, wallet or anything else that must stay dry.

I used easy to disconnect water proof connectors with a matching connector on the end of my charger lead so I can easily charge while sitting in the Kayak. 



I used easy to disconnect water proof connectors with a matching connector on the end of my charger lead so I can easily charge while sitting in the Kayak.
With the light weight,  the box can easily be attached inside the kayak with Velcro or even suction cups and stored inverted.

Total cost for Battery, Box, Connectors and Fuse was under $30   
« Last Edit: March 18, 2012, 02:05:51 PM by CraigVM62 »
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Lee

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I would love a lithium battery.  Where did you find that one?
 


CraigVM62

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I get them through a domestic distributor / importer  as we use them to power wireless covert cameras.   They can be found on Fleabay with 6800 mAh versions "as I have shown" running around $25 or less shipped with a "slow boat from China" wait on shipping
For someone wanting much longer run times between charges,  9800 mAh run around $35, with up to
30000 mAh running close to $200    In that price range you can even find Li-ion motorcycle batteries for mega run times of electronics.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2012, 02:28:22 PM by CraigVM62 »
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polepole

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And where do you get those water proof connectors?  Digging those!

-Allen


Romanian Redneck

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I would be interested in where you got them too. I'm recreating Lee's setup and the only connectors I've been able to find are big and bulky. These would help me complete my box perfectly.

And where do you get those water proof connectors?  Digging those!

-Allen
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CraigVM62

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Another one of my fleabay experimental purchases.     Just search "waterproof 2 pin connector" and a number of auctions will come up.   Around 4 bucks or less with shipping depending on quantities purchased.   Pretty well constructed for the low price.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2012, 09:45:13 PM by CraigVM62 »
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demonick

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The 9800 mA Li-ion weigh only 1.2 lbs !  I'm in.
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Lee

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Seriously thinking about buying one of these.  Demonick, let me know which seller you picked and why.

Kinda torn over $30 for 6800 or $40 for the 9800. 
 


 

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