Don't pull a snagged jig from the side of the yak in the ocean

I'm sure you've seen this or something similar, but it illustrates the lay out flat, and thrust I was referring to a little better.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PLy33_-VG7EjWjB3agMe74g1qzUHEDpFqu&v=NLugVeh1J5g

JoJo

I wouldn't trust the rating on the snap swivel.  I run 30 lb braid ending in a much heavier snap swivel.  I attach a 25 lb five foot mono leader that has a snap swivel at the end where the jig attaches and a swivel at the other end.  I carry about ten of these.  I never have to tie knots on the water this way. Therefore no and there is less down time after a break-off.

JoJo

I wouldn't trust the rating on the snap swivel.  I run 30 lb braid ending in a much heavier snap swivel.  I attach a 25 lb five foot mono leader that has a snap swivel at the end where the jig attaches and a swivel at the other end.  I carry about ten of these.  I never have to tie knots on the water this way. Therefore no and there is less down time after a break-off.

Love the  avitar and the last two times out on Dramamine no pukey even looking down and that's what I'm going to do with the line down size at the jig. 

Glad everything turned out OK Mojo Jojo!

This event reminded me of something I've never bothered to tell newbies before but will definitely add to seminars. 

If your VHF gets submerged, smack it a couple of times with the speaker facing down and then call for a radio check.  This is especially important if you're using your VHF for a Pan Pan or Mayday call from the water.  If you don't get the water out, you won't be able to hear when other people are hailing or answering you.

-Spot-

Glad everything turned out OK Mojo Jojo!

This event reminded me of something I've never bothered to tell newbies before but will definitely add to seminars. 

If your VHF gets submerged, smack it a couple of times with the speaker facing down and then call for a radio check.  This is especially important if you're using your VHF for a Pan Pan or Mayday call from the water.  If you don't get the water out, you won't be able to hear when other people are hailing or answering you.

-Spot-

THAT is a very key piece of info--I had no idea. Thanks Spot.
T2

Glad everything turned out OK Mojo Jojo!

This event reminded me of something I've never bothered to tell newbies before but will definitely add to seminars. 

If your VHF gets submerged, smack it a couple of times with the speaker facing down and then call for a radio check.  This is especially important if you're using your VHF for a Pan Pan or Mayday call from the water.  If you don't get the water out, you won't be able to hear when other people are hailing or answering you.

-Spot-

THAT is a very key piece of info--I had no idea. Thanks Spot.
T2

Some VHF handheld radios come with a feature to clear the water using sound.  ICOM for example.

Thanks for sharing. It helps keep us all on our toes.

I run 50# braid on my trolling and bottom fishing rigs, but with 20# leader.  Easy enough to break using the tricks described above.  Often reversing direction will pull out a snag - pull it out from the way it went in.   A very shallow angle helps too, but keep the long axis of the yak between you and the snag.

but keep the long axis of the yak between you and the snag.

This is also key for when monster hook sets are needed... don't do it with your rod at a right angle to your boat!

but keep the long axis of the yak between you and the snag.

This is also key for when monster hook sets are needed... don't do it with your rod at a right angle to your boat!

I'm going to be keeping the rod tip between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock unless there's a fish close to the surface getting pulled on board then I always prep for the fish to do a re-dive , I also keep my drag a little loose so a big boy don't give the surprise hook yank. 

but keep the long axis of the yak between you and the snag.

This is also key for when monster hook sets are needed... don't do it with your rod at a right angle to your boat!

I'm going to be keeping the rod tip between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock unless there's a fish close to the surface getting pulled on board then I always prep for the fish to do a re-dive , I also keep my drag a little loose so a big boy don't give the surprise hook yank.

Yep. I've nearly pulled myself off my kayak when I get frustrated with sturgeon and I go for the bass-pro hookset. 

The bass-pro hook set comment prompts me to remind everyone that the traditional hook set was done with monofilament, a line with a huge amount of stretch.  Braid has virtually no stretch, so a traditional hook set may tear the hook out of a fish's mouth.  With sharp hooks and braid I've found little to no hook set is needed.

You can also increase stability by dangling your legs over the sides.  Then again, I never have issues with stability unless I'm reaching for the tank well with sitting side straddle.

If I absolutely can't free a snag by passing over it the opposite way that I snagged up, I point the rod tip at the snag and continue pedaling away from it until my leader breaks. Sometimes the lure comes free this way and I save my gear.
I realize that probably isn't an easy task in a paddle kayak. That's my tried and true method.

If I absolutely can't free a snag by passing over it the opposite way that I snagged up, I point the rod tip at the snag and continue pedaling away from it until my leader breaks. Sometimes the lure comes free this way and I save my gear.
I realize that probably isn't an easy task in a paddle kayak. That's my tried and true method.

Just add the step of throwing out some extra line so that your momentum causes the break and it works well.

-Spot-