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BigFishy with a big springer!

Topic: More Downrigger talk  (Read 13818 times)

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coosbayyaker

  • Sturgeon
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  • "Hooky Thing"
  • Location: Coos Bay Oregon
  • Date Registered: Oct 2007
  • Posts: 3862
hmmm, i swear i saw that one for 100 bucks..

That's a darn good deal, I'm making mine for much less, though....
See ya on the water..
Roy



OutbackRoy

  • Lingcod
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  • Location: Charleston, OREGON, USA
  • Date Registered: Oct 2008
  • Posts: 343
  Downrigger works well up the river when floating sticks and grass are thick .Junk hangs and stays on top ,, CBY--  If you run downrigger be sure to get some dry boxes for camera and phone !!


Yarjammer

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  • Location: Woodinville, Wa.
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Dumb question, but I am not familiar with downriggers...

Where do you mount your rod/reel in relation to the downrigger?  Would the rod go in the "factory" flushmounts behind the seat, w/ the downrigger just aft of that (mounted in the tankwell) or can the downrigger sit ahead of the rod/reel?


polepole

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Dumb question, but I am not familiar with downriggers...

Where do you mount your rod/reel in relation to the downrigger?  Would the rod go in the "factory" flushmounts behind the seat, w/ the downrigger just aft of that (mounted in the tankwell) or can the downrigger sit ahead of the rod/reel?

I have my downrigger in the rear flush mount and my rod in front of me where I can see the strike.

-Allen


ZeeHawk

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Dumb question, but I am not familiar with downriggers...

Where do you mount your rod/reel in relation to the downrigger?  Would the rod go in the "factory" flushmounts behind the seat, w/ the downrigger just aft of that (mounted in the tankwell) or can the downrigger sit ahead of the rod/reel?

Not a dumb question at all. Actually one of the MOST important questions out there. You need to mount the downrigger behind your seat to fight the side pull that you'll get from the drag of the DR. The further back it is on the yak the harder it is for the DR to pull you sideways. For those w/ OK yaks they work great in the flush mounts like Pole said. One last suggestion I have is to mount your pole in front of you but have the rod go across your yak and then out the side like in the pic. This way the rod tip is closer to the yak and will help to minimize side pull even more. In the end if you don't have to fight the effects of the DR you can keep your gear in the water longer hopefully equaling more fish to the yak in the end.

Z



« Last Edit: February 09, 2009, 04:29:29 PM by Zee »
2010 Angler Of The Year
2008 Moutcha Bay Pro - Winner
Jackson kayaks, Kokatat, Daiwa, Werner Paddles, Orion, RinseKit, Kayak Academy


kallitype

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  • Vashon Island kayaker
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  • Date Registered: Jun 2008
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Dang, that's a better price than the Outdoor emporium.

I use the banana Scotty release, it is tailored for good sized kings---shakers only shake it.  It has a little gizmo that will lighten the grip so you can use it for trout or walleye. It;'s like the one that comes with the LakeTroll, but mansized...

   A Scotty #370 trolling snubber--the little one-- will save your fingers. It's a stretchy rubber shock absorber, sorta like a tackle snubber with clamp for the ball  and big Sampo swivel at the line end. Lift the weight with this, not the line----50 or 65# ProTroll braided line will give you a NASTY cut if there's any amount of tension, like a hung-up ball. Don't ask me how I know this.
  And the little Cannon 4# coated ball has a fin, prevents it from spinning.  Worth the bucks, in my opinion.
Never underestimate the ability of our policymakers to fail to devise and implement intelligent policy


kallitype

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  • Date Registered: Jun 2008
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Zee, if the DR is mounted behind the seat, is it awkward to hook up to the release?  Good side of that, the wire cannot get pulled into the mirage flippers by a string current---yes??
Never underestimate the ability of our policymakers to fail to devise and implement intelligent policy


polepole

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Zee, if the DR is mounted behind the seat, is it awkward to hook up to the release?  Good side of that, the wire cannot get pulled into the mirage flippers by a string current---yes??

Not awkward to me.  I do have a short tagline.

-Allen


coosbayyaker

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 just about Finished up my homemade DR tonight. Just need to get another scotty pole holder to hold it and epoxy some material to the clip that has the proper friction to hold the line at the desired tension..




See ya on the water..
Roy



ZeeHawk

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Zee, if the DR is mounted behind the seat, is it awkward to hook up to the release?  Good side of that, the wire cannot get pulled into the mirage flippers by a string current---yes??

Cake! And I have never had any problems w/ stuff getting into the MD. As a matter of fact in all the years I've been kayak fishing I think I've only had my line go into the MD once.

Z
« Last Edit: February 12, 2009, 08:04:11 PM by Zee »
2010 Angler Of The Year
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Pelagic

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Looks like a winner.. The only thing I would do is buy (not that expensive, if you were closer I would give you one of mine) a real release. You would be surprised the force/grip that is needed to hold the line correctly and release as needed when a fish hits. To loose or to tight and you miss a lot of fish. I have fished downriggers in the ocean for years and next to your choice of bait/lure and depth fished a properly set release is very important. You need it tight enough that the fish sets the hook in its mouth but loose enough to pop loose once the fish is hooked and doesn't pull the hook out of its mouth fighting the release.  You could also epoxy a line counter to the rod to keep track of how much line you have out.. Great home build!


kallitype

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  • Vashon Island kayaker
  • Location: Vashon Island, WA
  • Date Registered: Jun 2008
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Never underestimate the ability of our policymakers to fail to devise and implement intelligent policy


coosbayyaker

  • Sturgeon
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  • "Hooky Thing"
  • Location: Coos Bay Oregon
  • Date Registered: Oct 2007
  • Posts: 3862
Looks like a winner.. The only thing I would do is buy (not that expensive, if you were closer I would give you one of mine) a real release. You would be surprised the force/grip that is needed to hold the line correctly and release as needed when a fish hits. To loose or to tight and you miss a lot of fish. I have fished downriggers in the ocean for years and next to your choice of bait/lure and depth fished a properly set release is very important. You need it tight enough that the fish sets the hook in its mouth but loose enough to pop loose once the fish is hooked and doesn't pull the hook out of its mouth fighting the release.  You could also epoxy a line counter to the rod to keep track of how much line you have out.. Great home build!

Yea, I will probably end up going with a real release. We did do some testing and with some rubber like a inner tube glued on it , it actually held on pretty good. Trial and error will get it right. Good idea about the line counter
See ya on the water..
Roy



kallitype

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  • Location: Vashon Island, WA
  • Date Registered: Jun 2008
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Zee, I took you at your word and made a behind-the-seat rigger mount this AM, as it was too windy to fish QM harbor.  Here's the setup----a piece of click-flooring, drilled for dowels and the Scotty mount fastened with SS bolts.  Slips into the holes where the wheels fit:



and slipped into place, the bungee cord will hold it down nicely



I'm hoping tomorrow will be decent weather for trying this out!  I made up some high-tech hoochies with mini-B2 squid inside, as tied by "Captain Downriggin"---he
knows what he's doing with hoochies!!


Never underestimate the ability of our policymakers to fail to devise and implement intelligent policy


Pisco Sicko

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  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
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Nice job, KT.

Like the sickle hooks. :thumbsup: