NorthWest Kayak Anglers
Not Necessarily Kayak Fishing => Classifieds => Topic started by: Trident 13 on July 20, 2017, 08:21:57 PM
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Nice little Cannon downrigger with a composition shaft that can be cut to size very easily. Has a depth counter, 8-lb ball, wire line and terminal clip. Allows for one-handed lowering and raising while holding a pole in the other hand. $75(http://)
This is the identical unit installed on a kayak a few months ago with the shaft cut back so the line is very close to the kayak making it safer and easier to handle.
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This is my favorite model of downrigger for trolling from a pedal kayak.
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PM sent. Let me know if you didn't get it.
Thanks.
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Sold to Andy in Port Townsend.
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You'll like this DR, Andy. Replace the wire with braid, and make a full wrap around the line counter/pulley. It won't slip and the line counter will be dead nuts on. Without the full wrap, the line will slip and over time the depth counter will lose accuracy.
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I never look at the depth counter on my Cannon Lake-Troller. Your fish finder will show you where your weight is located with respect to suspended fish and the bottom.
The only complaint I have about my Cannon Lake-Troller is that after I replaced the wire cable with low-drag braided downrigger line (which I recommend doing), when I was transporting the downrigger the braided line would sometimes slip out of the groove in the pulley and get stuck between the pulley wheel and the side of the pulley. The only way to get the braided line back into the groove is to cut the weight off the line, feed the line through the pulley with a pipecleaner or a piece of stiff wire, and then tie the weight back on. So I added a hook for the weight to the downrigger, and I hang the weight on the hook and keep the line under tension when transporting the downrigger. This prevents the braided line from coming out of the groove in the pulley wheel.
Low_Sky, does wrapping the braided line once around the pulley wheel prevent the braided line from coming out of the groove? I haven't tried that.
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Thanks, Low_Sky, pmmpete,
Still need to arrange to pick it up from T13 but these tips are much appreciated. Many good mounting ideas here from pete and others (though some of the photos are no longer showing in a couple of threads). I get the idea though, I think. It's shore fishing only now in MA9, which is a bummer cause I can't quite get out there as far as I need to casting from shore. Learning a new skill set fishing off the beach is pretty cool though. #1--pay attention to where the gulls are, for a couple of reasons (good and bad). ;)
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I never look at the depth counter on my Cannon Lake-Troller. Your fish finder will show you where your weight is located with respect to suspended fish and the bottom.
The only complaint I have about my Cannon Lake-Troller is that after I replaced the wire cable with low-drag braided downrigger line (which I recommend doing), when I was transporting the downrigger the braided line would sometimes slip out of the groove in the pulley and get stuck between the pulley wheel and the side of the pulley. The only way to get the braided line back into the groove is to cut the weight off the line, feed the line through the pulley with a pipecleaner or a piece of stiff wire, and then tie the weight back on. So I added a hook for the weight to the downrigger, and I hang the weight on the hook and keep the line under tension when transporting the downrigger. This prevents the braided line from coming out of the groove in the pulley wheel.
Low_Sky, does wrapping the braided line once around the pulley wheel prevent the braided line from coming out of the groove? I haven't tried that.
Yes, the full wrap does help with losing the line off the side of the pulley. I still disconnect my weight and take the slack out of the line for transport. Before i started doing the full wrap, I would have the line slip off doing bait checks and have to remove the DR on the water to fix it. Not a problem now.
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