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Picture Of The Month



SD2OR with a trophy fall walleye

Topic: Hestitations on DIY Cart  (Read 3185 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

parkie

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Oct 2021
  • Posts: 23
Just need some affirmation here:
Kayak: Salty PDL 120

Making a cart with 13inch wheels from harbor freight, 1inch steel pipe. Looking to see where the best place to mount the cart would be without having to drill any additional holes, it seems like mounting it on the geartrac is a possibility. Anyone know how much weight the geartrac can handle?

TIA!

Redacted after further research the geartrac will tend to warp and twist...
« Last Edit: November 14, 2021, 11:01:43 AM by parkie »


LawyerBob

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: Beaverton, Oregon
  • Date Registered: Jun 2015
  • Posts: 187
I tend to just use a C-Tug on everything. Just the regular solid wheel version—the sand track wheels apparently bottom-out over 90 lbs.

The wheels and bumpers come off for easy storage; central yoke can also be split in half, but typically isn’t worth doing (doesn’t make a big difference storage wise).



Also seen some pretty nice custom built setups out there. So by all means go that route if you’re mechanically inclined.


Ling Banger

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Lincoln Beach, OR
  • Date Registered: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 2588
(threadjack)
Heard that YakAttack is getting ready to put out their own cart. I'm interested to see what that crafty son-of-a-gun Luther will bring to light. They'll probably trot it out at iCast and fish for some awards.




"We're going to go fishing
And that's all there is to it." - R.P. McMurphy


Matt M

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Tigard
  • Date Registered: Mar 2016
  • Posts: 1236
The going recommendation has been the wilderness systems HD cart, the sticker shock has me looking elsewhere too. I'll say that the new kayaks are so dang heavy it will take a bit more than the typical PVC pipe setup that had been a go-to in the past. I have been looking at copying the WS cart with extruded aluminum or otherwise but I am wary that I will spend half the cost of the WS cart and it will be a piece of crap.

https://www.wildernesssystems.com/us/products/heavy-duty-kayak-kart-no-flat-wheels
-Matt

Old Town Sportsman 120 PDL


Nobaddays

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Central Oregon
  • Date Registered: Jul 2014
  • Posts: 409
My latest version of DIY cart is made out of 3/4 inch copper tubing.  I have cheap HF wheels, but it would work great with any size wheels.  I have used this cart for a couple years hauling my Outback and it has worked great.  Copper tubing is real easy to use and can be taken back apart if something needs to be modified.
Being retired, they pay me when I go fishing, therefore I am kind of a professional fisherman.


Matt M

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Tigard
  • Date Registered: Mar 2016
  • Posts: 1236
My latest version of DIY cart is made out of 3/4 inch copper tubing.  I have cheap HF wheels, but it would work great with any size wheels.  I have used this cart for a couple years hauling my Outback and it has worked great.  Copper tubing is real easy to use and can be taken back apart if something needs to be modified.
That's a nice route for a scupper mount. I do believe that Old Town recommends not using them, I don't think the reinforce the scupper areas quite like hobie does.
-Matt

Old Town Sportsman 120 PDL


Nobaddays

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Central Oregon
  • Date Registered: Jul 2014
  • Posts: 409
My latest version of DIY cart is made out of 3/4 inch copper tubing.  I have cheap HF wheels, but it would work great with any size wheels.  I have used this cart for a couple years hauling my Outback and it has worked great.  Copper tubing is real easy to use and can be taken back apart if something needs to be modified.
That's a nice route for a scupper mount. I do believe that Old Town recommends not using them, I don't think the reinforce the scupper areas quite like hobie does.

I would think you could put a T on each post and run it in the groove on each side of the hull instead of going through the scupper holes.  Maybe have some kind of strap to hold it in place.
Being retired, they pay me when I go fishing, therefore I am kind of a professional fisherman.


Matt M

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Tigard
  • Date Registered: Mar 2016
  • Posts: 1236
My latest version of DIY cart is made out of 3/4 inch copper tubing.  I have cheap HF wheels, but it would work great with any size wheels.  I have used this cart for a couple years hauling my Outback and it has worked great.  Copper tubing is real easy to use and can be taken back apart if something needs to be modified.
That's a nice route for a scupper mount. I do believe that Old Town recommends not using them, I don't think the reinforce the scupper areas quite like hobie does.

I would think you could put a T on each post and run it in the groove on each side of the hull instead of going through the scupper holes.  Maybe have some kind of strap to hold it in place.

That is true, I still have my hobie scupper cart so I may have to see if I can rig it up to work with the "bunk" style.
-Matt

Old Town Sportsman 120 PDL


Larry_MayII_HR

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: Corvallis, OR
  • Date Registered: Jun 2017
  • Posts: 150
Here is my cart, similar to Nobaddays but less bling-ie/heavy and likely slightly less durable.

My design uses a 5/8" aluminum shaft for the 10" HF tires. The ends of the shaft are blind tapped with 10-24 holes for a 3/4" long machine screw which holds the tires in place.  On the screw I use a few washers and a lock washer to make sure the tires don't come loose (they never have).  If you were nervous you could add a drop of loktite blue.

The most important thing is to drill through the cross support tees, or it will break very quickly.  I believe I used a 3/4" paddle bit for that. After pounding the tees through the vertical supports I secured them with a self-tapping sheet metal screw on each side since you can't get much if any glue in the joint.

The cart sits nicely behind my seat in the scupper holes on my outback and the tires don't rub my arms while fishing. Pretty nice but absolutely not as durable as a commercial $150-200 cart. You won't be able to throw this thing around off road. But if you're diligent and go slow you can make tracks on some decently rocky terrain.

Good luck with your build!

--LM_II / Steve


parkie

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Oct 2021
  • Posts: 23
Thank you all, i'm going to be a combo of LM_II and the video below:



Larry_MayII_HR

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: Corvallis, OR
  • Date Registered: Jun 2017
  • Posts: 150
I like the way he did the axle in the video - simpler than mine for sure, and easier to disassemble.  I don't need to disassemble mine though since the scupper version is smaller, but it is a very nice design. Thanks for sharing, Parkie.


parkie

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Beaverton, OR
  • Date Registered: Oct 2021
  • Posts: 23
yep i like that too, although i have no plans on taking off the wheels.

I do plan on taking off the top pvc parts that the kayak sits on so i can store the cart in my scuppers when on the water.


INSAYN

  • ORC_Safety
  • Sturgeon
  • *
  • **RIP...Ron, Ro, AMB, Stephen**
  • Location: Forest Grove, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2008
  • Posts: 5411
Here is my cart, similar to Nobaddays but less bling-ie/heavy and likely slightly less durable.

My design uses a 5/8" aluminum shaft for the 10" HF tires. The ends of the shaft are blind tapped with 10-24 holes for a 3/4" long machine screw which holds the tires in place.  On the screw I use a few washers and a lock washer to make sure the tires don't come loose (they never have).  If you were nervous you could add a drop of loktite blue.

The most important thing is to drill through the cross support tees, or it will break very quickly.  I believe I used a 3/4" paddle bit for that. After pounding the tees through the vertical supports I secured them with a self-tapping sheet metal screw on each side since you can't get much if any glue in the joint.

The cart sits nicely behind my seat in the scupper holes on my outback and the tires don't rub my arms while fishing. Pretty nice but absolutely not as durable as a commercial $150-200 cart. You won't be able to throw this thing around off road. But if you're diligent and go slow you can make tracks on some decently rocky terrain.

Good luck with your build!

--LM_II / Steve

Step it up to Sched 80 PVC and it will last for years. I built my PVC cart sometime back in 2010 or 2011, and haven't had issues yet.
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


Larry_MayII_HR

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: Corvallis, OR
  • Date Registered: Jun 2017
  • Posts: 150
Here is my cart, similar to Nobaddays but less bling-ie/heavy and likely slightly less durable.

My design uses a 5/8" aluminum shaft for the 10" HF tires. The ends of the shaft are blind tapped with 10-24 holes for a 3/4" long machine screw which holds the tires in place.  On the screw I use a few washers and a lock washer to make sure the tires don't come loose (they never have).  If you were nervous you could add a drop of loktite blue.

The most important thing is to drill through the cross support tees, or it will break very quickly.  I believe I used a 3/4" paddle bit for that. After pounding the tees through the vertical supports I secured them with a self-tapping sheet metal screw on each side since you can't get much if any glue in the joint.

The cart sits nicely behind my seat in the scupper holes on my outback and the tires don't rub my arms while fishing. Pretty nice but absolutely not as durable as a commercial $150-200 cart. You won't be able to throw this thing around off road. But if you're diligent and go slow you can make tracks on some decently rocky terrain.

Good luck with your build!

--LM_II / Steve

Step it up to Sched 80 PVC and it will last for years. I built my PVC cart sometime back in 2010 or 2011, and haven't had issues yet.

I wanted to but couldn't find any locally when I decided to build!  Coulda woulda shoulda.  Maybe for the 3.0 version.


INSAYN

  • ORC_Safety
  • Sturgeon
  • *
  • **RIP...Ron, Ro, AMB, Stephen**
  • Location: Forest Grove, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2008
  • Posts: 5411
Here is my cart, similar to Nobaddays but less bling-ie/heavy and likely slightly less durable.

My design uses a 5/8" aluminum shaft for the 10" HF tires. The ends of the shaft are blind tapped with 10-24 holes for a 3/4" long machine screw which holds the tires in place.  On the screw I use a few washers and a lock washer to make sure the tires don't come loose (they never have).  If you were nervous you could add a drop of loktite blue.

The most important thing is to drill through the cross support tees, or it will break very quickly.  I believe I used a 3/4" paddle bit for that. After pounding the tees through the vertical supports I secured them with a self-tapping sheet metal screw on each side since you can't get much if any glue in the joint.

The cart sits nicely behind my seat in the scupper holes on my outback and the tires don't rub my arms while fishing. Pretty nice but absolutely not as durable as a commercial $150-200 cart. You won't be able to throw this thing around off road. But if you're diligent and go slow you can make tracks on some decently rocky terrain.

Good luck with your build!

--LM_II / Steve

Step it up to Sched 80 PVC and it will last for years. I built my PVC cart sometime back in 2010 or 2011, and haven't had issues yet.

I wanted to but couldn't find any locally when I decided to build!  Coulda woulda shoulda.  Maybe for the 3.0 version.

ACE Hardware usually has Sched 80 in stock.
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


 

anything