Hobie drive nuts

what this thread needs is a Beavis and Butthead GIF....

[Heh,heh,heh] You said, "NUTS" [/Heh,heh,heh]

Couldn’t resist!  Thanks snopro

excellent.

Great thread and got me asking a question or two re: Hobies

What do people have in the Yak for spare parts, tools, goop, etc. ?

Is there a good overview, video, manual of the proper care and feeding of the mirage drive?

In following this it is clear I dont have the stuff if something repairable goes wrong on the water and that I need to take better care of the drive.

I just picked up 6 Nuylocs, 12 1/4 20 SS nuts and 2 7/16 wrenches as a start

There are few places where a 3 mm hex (Allen) wrench comes to play, so may want to have that in your mini tool box as well. 

A little bit more information about nylock nuts and threadlocking compound. (We had an incident at work where a machine shipped to a customer had several loose fasteners upon arrival, and I was tasked with doing some research, along with a few of our senior design engineers.)

1) Nylock nuts are by design a one-use fastener.  Removal and re-use chews up the insert to a point where it becomes ineffective.

2) Nylock nuts are not particularly effective in high vibration situations. I wouldn't call a pedal drive a high vibration application, but it is not a stationary application, either. I have had a nylock fall off my drive in use, and I have to assume motion had a lot to do with that, as well as it being removed and re-used.

3) Loctite (who makes dozens of compounds other than threadlockers) makes 4 types of color-coded threadlocking compounds.
     a) purple - low strength, designed for fasteners under 1/4" (53 in/lbs break torque)
     b) blue - medium strength, designed for fasteners 1/4" to 3/4" (230 in/lbs break torque)
     c) red - designed to be permanent, and requiring the application of heat to remove (290 in/lb break torque)
     d) green - wicking, designed to be used on fasteners in place (260 in/lb break torque)

* break torque is the momentary force required to break the bond - the prevail torque to keep the fastener moving is considerable less, except in the case of the red Loctite.

4) Loctite threadlocker sets up as a plastic in the absence of oxygen, and uses ions from active metals to cure. This means that is stays liquid until it gets into the relatively airless spaces between the internal and external threads, and "takes" free ions from the surrounding metal. Stainless steel is a passive metal, meaning it doesn't have a lot of free ions to give. Therefore, Loctite recommends using a primer on stainless steel fasteners with stainless bolts, with the proviso that they have developed some new compounds that can be used on SS without a primer. In blue, that is Loctite 243, and red it is 263. (The old standbys were 242 in blue and 262 in red.) Purple (222) and green (290) do not come in primerless variants.

5) LOCTITE THREADLOCKER DAMAGES MANY PLASTICS! Keep it off the plastic parts of your drives. Fortunately, Loctite only sets up in between the threads, so there is no need to slather it on. Apply a drop or two only in the area that the fastener will be tight.  Loctite will not work in conjunction with nylock fasteners because of the plastic insert.

6) Loctite is also a single use product. If you move the nut, the plastic that set up in the threads is destroyed and threadlocker will need to be re-applied.

I hope some of you find this useful. I intend on replacing all the nylock nuts in my drives with standard SS nuts and using Loctite 243. The blue stick pictured before (248) would also work well, but it should be used with Loctite primer SF 7088, SF 7469, or SF 7471. (The only difference between those that I could find is that SF 7469 can be used in temps below 40°F.)

A little bit more information about nylock nuts and threadlocking compound. (We had an incident at work where a machine shipped to a customer had several loose fasteners upon arrival, and I was tasked with doing some research, along with a few of our senior design engineers.)

1) Nylock nuts are by design a one-use fastener.  Removal and re-use chews up the insert to a point where it becomes ineffective.

2) Nylock nuts are not particularly effective in high vibration situations. I wouldn't call a pedal drive a high vibration application, but it is not a stationary application, either. I have had a nylock fall off my drive in use, and I have to assume motion had a lot to do with that, as well as it being removed and re-used.

3) Loctite (who makes dozens of compounds other than threadlockers) makes 4 types of color-coded threadlocking compounds.
     a) purple - low strength, designed for fasteners under 1/4" (53 in/lbs break torque)
     b) blue - medium strength, designed for fasteners 1/4" to 3/4" (230 in/lbs break torque)
     c) red - designed to be permanent, and requiring the application of heat to remove (290 in/lb break torque)
     d) green - wicking, designed to be used on fasteners in place (260 in/lb break torque)

* break torque is the momentary force required to break the bond - the prevail torque to keep the fastener moving is considerable less, except in the case of the red Loctite.

4) Loctite threadlocker sets up as a plastic in the absence of oxygen, and uses ions from active metals to cure. This means that is stays liquid until it gets into the relatively airless spaces between the internal and external threads, and "takes" free ions from the surrounding metal. Stainless steel is a passive metal, meaning it doesn't have a lot of free ions to give. Therefore, Loctite recommends using a primer on stainless steel fasteners with stainless bolts, with the proviso that they have developed some new compounds that can be used on SS without a primer. In blue, that is Loctite 243, and red it is 263. (The old standbys were 242 in blue and 262 in red.) Purple (222) and green (290) do not come in primerless variants.

5) LOCTITE THREADLOCKER DAMAGES MANY PLASTICS! Keep it off the plastic parts of your drives. Fortunately, Loctite only sets up in between the threads, so there is no need to slather it on. Apply a drop or two only in the area that the fastener will be tight.  Loctite will not work in conjunction with nylock fasteners because of the plastic insert.

6) Loctite is also a single use product. If you move the nut, the plastic that set up in the threads is destroyed and threadlocker will need to be re-applied.

I hope some of you find this useful. I intend on replacing all the nylock nuts in my drives with standard SS nuts and using Loctite 243. The blue stick pictured before (248) would also work well, but it should be used with Loctite primer SF 7088, SF 7469, or SF 7471. (The only difference between those that I could find is that SF 7469 can be used in temps below 40°F.)

excellent information!

I did my loosening test today and the 'blue' loctite bond breaks free easily, video of that in the link below.  I'm pleased with the combination of tightening the nuts together and adding a drop of 'blue' loctite, plus always using new nyloc nuts and checking all the drive nuts before launch.   Better yet would be to chase the threads on those cable ends with a 1/4-20 die to reduce the chance of them cutting the nyloc material.

YouTube video:  Hobie MD180 'locking' drive nut

Link:  youtu.be/rn6cD0QNi24

"It's all fun and games until someone loses a nut"