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Picture Of The Month



SD2OR with a trophy fall walleye

Topic: Rod repair -- general approach & couple questions  (Read 1417 times)

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bogueYaker

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Pace the halls and climb the walls
  • Location: Now back in NC
  • Date Registered: Aug 2019
  • Posts: 405
I've noticed a pattern of mine with one piece fishing rods - I tend to bang them around much more than two+ piece fishing rods.

Anyways, I need to reattach a guide on my 7'9" lamiglas X11. After a bit of research, it seems that the fix will go:
(1) sand off epoxy around missing guide
(2) unwrap the existing wrap that held the guide in place
(3) re-wrap the guide
(4) coat new wrap & guide w/ epoxy

Does that sound about right?

Questions that I was not able to definitively answer w/ The Google:
(1) Could I use fishing braid for the wrap job?
(2) Could I use 5 minute epoxy for the epoxy covering? I'm thinking about using the Gorilla Glue epoxy, for what that's worth.

Also, if anyone wants to recommend fishing rod repair folks in the Seattle area, that'd be cool.


T Coastal

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Tillamook
  • Date Registered: Apr 2019
  • Posts: 250
Also curious of this. I have a couple rods missing a guide here or there. Would love to fix them cheap.
2020 Hobie Outback
2018 Ocean Kayak Prowler 13


alpalmer

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Albany, OR
  • Date Registered: Apr 2012
  • Posts: 504
I have used fishing braid as well as polyester thread to rewrap guides, then the 5-minute epoxy to create a long-lasting repair.   Just make sure the new guide lines up with the others, as perfectly as you can make it.
"A venturesome minority will always be eager to get off on their own,
and no obstacle should be placed in their path;
let them take risk, for God sake, let them get lost, sun burnt, stranded, drowned,
eaten by bears, buried alive under avalanches -
that is the right and privilege of any free American."
--Edward Abbey--


Tinker

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Kevin
  • Location: 42.74°N 124.5°W
  • Date Registered: May 2013
  • Posts: 3304
I built a couple of rods many years ago.  Rod-wrapping thread isn't that expensive, but if it's more than you want to spend, I'd use a flat polyester fly-tying thread instead of braided spectra or dyeema.  Tying thread is about $3 a spool and there must be a fly-fishing shop somewhere in the Seattle area.

I have no opinion on general-purpose epoxies.  Rod epoxies are formluated to flow and cure more smoothly, but other than that, there wasn't a lot of difference way back when.  Don't think there is now, either.
I expected the worst, but it was worse than I expected...


  • Location: Hillsboro
  • Date Registered: Feb 2021
  • Posts: 83
This happened to me a while back. All I did was slide the eyelet back in its pocket after applying some epoxy to the part that is covered by the wraps. Grabbed a toothpick and applied a few more dabs of epoxy around the eye and called it good. I believe I have done this with multiple eyelets last year and they are all still holding so far. Maybe not the best way but its worked so far.

I used a 2 part slow curing epoxy that I normally use to build my arrows. It didn't cure clear but it is strong.


Stevm

  • Rockfish
  • ****
  • Location: PDX
  • Date Registered: Mar 2014
  • Posts: 127
I usually used a strong polyester thread, and sealed it with a rod varnish (because it flows nicely and self levels). However, I do have a couple rebuilt sturgeon rods that were wrapped with a synthetic tape and set with epoxy, they have held up very well.

A couple tips that I found handy:
Tack your guide with superglue to hold it in place before you wrap.
Run a separate loop of thread along the foot of the guide so that you can pull the tag end under the wraps.
Set the pole in a couple "V" shaped pieces of wood and turn the pole rather than wrapping the thread.  It makes it easier to run the wraps evenly, especially if you are doing several.. I have a thread holder that puts tension on the thread. I haven't tried using my fly tying thread holder, but that seems like it would work.
“Once a year go someplace you have never been “
Dali Llama

2015 Outback Dune
2020 Outback Dune
20? OK Trident 13 Dune Camo


no_oil_needed

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Location: Lake Washington
  • Date Registered: May 2013
  • Posts: 256
I build rods as a hobby and have replaced broken guides or installed new guide sets for friends on several occasions.

To take off the epoxy and thread on the rod right now, I recommend a box cutter and cutting the threads on top of the guide foot so you don't cut into the blank. You should then be able to pull the majority of the remaining epoxy off with your fingers. Heat up the area with a heat gun or hair dryer if you want to make it a little easier. You can sand, but I find it unnecessary. The new thread and epoxy you put on will cover up appearance items and you don't risk damaging the blank.

You can use any polyester thread to attach a new guide. Follow the instructions in the video linked below. You can make a cheap guide wrapping stand with a cardboard box with the ends notched and a "thread tensioner" by running the thread through a book, and yes, I have built a rod using a cardboard box and book. Make sure the guide is in line with the other guides before applying epoxy. Correct any thread gaps with your fingernail.



I personally would not use braided fishing line, but you can try it. I think it's not used because you can get 1000 yards of rod thread for half the cost as 100 yards of power pro. Thread at walmart or fred meyer is cheap and will also work. You can use the 5-minute epoxy and thin it a bit with isopropyl alcohol, but it might not look great. Rod performance will not be affected. If you use a lighter to heat the epoxy after it is on the thread, it should level the epoxy out and remove bubbles in the epoxy. Just quickly pass the lighter near the epoxy so you don't burn the epoxy. You will have to turn the blank a quarter to half turn every 20-30 second until the epoxy sets to get an even coat. The epoxy should be tack-free (not sticky) before you take the rod off the stand and stop rotating it. Then give the epoxy 24 hours to fully cure before giving it the full abuse.

I think the only shop that might fix the guide that I know of is Greg's up in Lake Stevens.

If this is a rod of great importance to you, I recommend you try replacing a guide on a cheap rod first to learn how to do it before jumping straight into doing it on a rod of any importance. Just cut off a guide on a cheap rod and then wrap it and epoxy. No need to get fancy.
Relax. You'll live longer.


Ling Banger

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Lincoln Beach, OR
  • Date Registered: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 2588
Hey ndogg! Show everyone your sweet motorized Lego rod wrapper build.




"We're going to go fishing
And that's all there is to it." - R.P. McMurphy


bogueYaker

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Pace the halls and climb the walls
  • Location: Now back in NC
  • Date Registered: Aug 2019
  • Posts: 405
Thanks all for the suggestions & insight.

I ended up going w/ HarvestNFaith's approach. Seems to be holding up.

On a related note, if any LX79BC owners manage to pull a me by (a) mishandling their rod so badly that they pop some eyes towards the tip off, and (b) manage to lose the eye, they can use this as a somewhat decent replacement: "Sea Guide Titanium, RSOL Ring, Running Guide"... The size 5 is a bit too small and the size 6 is a bit too large. I got mine from Angler's Workshop.


 

anything