NorthWest Kayak Anglers
Kayak Fishing => Drillin' & Cuttin' => Topic started by: rawkfish on March 18, 2011, 11:16:41 AM
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On my old kayak (Malibu X-Factor) I had installed flush-mount rod holders immediately aft of the seat well. These were my favorite rod holders as they were positioned in just the right place for me to simply drop the rod straight down into a holder as I was lipping a fish and bringing it aboard. I didn't have to reach back or look where I was putting the rod, they were in a very natural spot.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175508-30131996.jpeg)
At first with the Revolution, I couldn't figure out a way to duplicate that setup which was only mildly frustrating. I then came across pictures of Morgan Promnitz's Revolution, the Hobie Fishing manager. So what I did on my boat is essentially the same thing. I put together a system using two RAM Revolution rod holders mounted behind the seat. These provide an amazing rod storage option as they have a pretty sweet range of motion. They can be rotated to be right up next to the rear of your seat, or way out to the side so they are well out of the way. Also their range of motion is in such a way that when out to the side like this, the arm on the rod holder cannot be angled any farther down than straight out.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175441-2994763.jpeg)
To provide this positioning, I have two 1.5" RAM ball mounts(C size) with the diamond base(part#: RAM-238U) mounted just forward of the molded-in rod holders. These were the tricky part of putting this together because practically no retailer carries them, even online, and you need pretty long arms(which I don't have) to mount these where I have them using stainless hardware. I recommend mounting them with stainless hardware because of the way the Revolution rod holder will be positioned. When they're out to the side as I have them in the pictures, they generate a torque focused about the ball mounts. This torque is unfortunately applied to the mount in such a way that it tends to try to rotate the ball mount about it's narrower base dimension, not the wider dimension. To give the mount some added strength, fender washers should be used on the underside. I used stainless #10 pan head bolts with nylock nuts as mounting hardware.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175442-29951111.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175438-2992593.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175439-2993804.jpeg)
I mounted the circular bases that came with the Revolution tube rod holders immediately behind the seat on the ridge that separates the seat well and the rear storage well. Having the two round base mounts here provides some pretty cool options for rod storage. The Revo tubes can be positioned right behind the seat in a storage mode for traveling distances. This way, your rods aren't out over the side, getting splashed while covering distance quickly in choppy water.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175454-3003378.jpeg)
The other storage mode is for punching through surf. The tubes are straightened and laid down on the rear storage well. Then the reels can be secured with the bungees that cross the storage well. This allows the rods to be pointed straight off the stern so if one were to roll the kayak while trying to get out through the surf, the rods are spared from being bent and broken.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175443-29961705.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175446-29981905.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175445-2997209.jpeg)
The diamond bases also provide a pretty slick rod storage position for surf launches/landings. The rod tubes are straightened and pointed forward towards the bow. This way, the rods are stowed the length of the boat so the tips are not hanging off the back and they do not have to be retrieved out of the front hatch after a surf launch or landing. This has it's obvious benefits such as not having your rods and reels scratched to hell and no balancing acts have to be performed when accessing the front hatch for your rods.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175448-29991991.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175450-3000400.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175451-30011665.jpeg)
I have a few of the 1" ball mounts(B size) mounted around the cockpit area for the X-shot mount and my Garmin eTrex Summit. 1" ball mount with round base is also shown here on the middle hatch
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175455-30042198.jpeg)
A standard Revolution Rod holder positioned up front for trolling.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175500-3007847.jpeg)
Sounder is mounted up front by the hatch so no holes needed to be drilled to run wires. Running the wires under the hatch was sort of a temporary thing at first, but I don't think I'm going to change it since I'm pretty satisfied with it.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175501-3008695.jpeg)
Inside the hatch, I have the battery box which can house three different battery options. Either a sealed gel-cell brick, an 8 AA pack, or a couple of batteries I have for my cordless drill - all work great.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175503-3009619.jpeg)
Transducer is positioned with the foam-puck style transducer mount.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175504-30101538.jpeg)
The 1" RAM ball just aft of the sounder mount is where I have my camera mount system most of the time.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175506-30111070.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175507-3012445.jpeg)
For traversing the surf zone or just a different camera angle while pedaling around, I put a Scotty flush-mount round base(part# 444) in the storage well. This allows me to have a camera mount behind me, but can be easily removed to allow more storage in the rear well if needed. I used this mount so I could keep using my camera arm base I fashioned for my roll bar rod-rack on my X-factor. This consists of a Scotty height extender(part# 259), a peg piece that comes with pretty much any Scotty rod holder, and a 1" Ram U-bolt mount(part# RAM-B-231) mounted on the peg piece.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175437-29911182.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175452-3002476.jpeg)
My flag mount is simply my old flag, which is an ATV whip flag pole with the base wrapped in insulation foam and electrical tape, zip-tied to a Scotty fly-rod holder. This too, was a temporary rigging that took about ten minutes to put together as I was frantically getting ready one evening for a trip out to the ocean the next day. I didn't have a flag system setup so I grabbed what I had laying around and threw it together. It has really surprised me on how well it works so it may end up being permanent. The bungee leash was used when I had it for my old setup to hold the flag in the holster. I left it on and use it now just in case the zip-ties fail although now is seems like that is pretty unlikely.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175457-30052112.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-180311175458-3006937.jpeg)
Hope this provides people with some ideas they can use for their kayaks.
Tight lines!
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WOW!!
what a sweet looking ride, thanks for the tutorial rawk.
I can see the rear addition rod ram's and camera add ons a major plus.
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I really like the layout of your rear most 1.5" RAM tubes. How the hell did you get your stubby arms to reach far enough inside to install fender washers behind that diamond mount? I have set of those RAM tubes, just haven't found a way to get fingers far enough back to use bolts instead of rivets. :-\
As for online dealers for RAM mount bits, I have had really great service with "Themountdepot.com".
You can get the 238U from them, no problem. http://www.themountdepot.com/RAM_207U_p/RAM_238U_p/ram-238u.htm (http://www.themountdepot.com/RAM_207U_p/RAM_238U_p/ram-238u.htm)
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I really like the layout of your rear most 1.5" RAM tubes. How the hell did you get your stubby arms to reach far enough inside to install fender washers behind that diamond mount? I have set of those RAM tubes, just haven't found a way to get fingers far enough back to use bolts instead of rivets. :-\
As for online dealers for RAM mount bits, I have had really great service with "Themountdepot.com".
You can get the 238U from them, no problem. http://www.themountdepot.com/RAM_207U_p/RAM_238U_p/ram-238u.htm (http://www.themountdepot.com/RAM_207U_p/RAM_238U_p/ram-238u.htm)
Yeah, it took about an hour, a good pair of mini vice grips and... maybe a couple of hoppy beverages... It was one tough bugger, that's for sure.
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Looks awesome! I see some of those revolution tubes in my future. Like the layout of the boat! That machine needs a serious baptism in blood! >:D
I did notice one thing that came up when I rigged my Adventure and may or may not be an issue for you.. Check where your rod (trolling rod in the front) ends up when you put it under load, as if you were trolling for salmon with a 4-8 oz weight and associated drag. Under load the front of the rod bends down and back towards you (quite a bit depending on the rod) and my knees ended up bumping the rod as I pedaled the mirage drive. I solved the problem by moving the base as forward as I could and still reach it comfortably and picked up one of the scotty "articulated arm mounts" Which allowed me to move the rod up and out enough that even under a heavy load trolling in strong current the rod clears my knees.
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Rawkfish inspired an addition to my Revo after trying to deal with my piggy Cabezon I landed at Depoe Bay a few weeks ago.
I had the pig in my lap, as well as my pole with the big jig, and two sharp shrimp flies (soft plastic squids actually).
I tried several times to put my rod in the holder on the left behind me, but my dry suit fabric blocked my few, and I was unsuccessful trying braille.
I knew right away why Rawfish added a rod holder off to the side. Brilliant!
However, there were some obstacles that plagued me from a direct copy and paste.
1. I like to land fish on my right, and have my rod in my left.
Therefore a rod holder on my left is necessary.
2. I stow my paddle on my left so it isn't in the way of landing fish on the right.
3. I also like to hang my feet over the right side, so the paddle would be in my way if on that side too.
4. Mounting the rod holder on the ledge offered a few other issues that concerned me.
The rod holder above the paddle would block the paddle's stowage option on that side.
The leverage on the narrow edge could be an issue without additional support.
I opted to mount the RAM ball below the paddle shaft, and forward of the rear keeper, as getting to the backs of the screws was a bit easier via the mid hatch.
Knowing that by itself the RAM mount would flex the body of the kayak with decent leverage applied to the rod holder, I had a plan.
(http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt128/INSAYN_BCR/Kayak%20mods/Hobie%20side%20RAM%20holder/P5210081.jpg)
(http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt128/INSAYN_BCR/Kayak%20mods/Hobie%20side%20RAM%20holder/P5210082.jpg)
Aluminum backer plate, gooped like crazy and bolted in 6 places.
(http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt128/INSAYN_BCR/Kayak%20mods/Hobie%20side%20RAM%20holder/P5210087.jpg)
The round mount and the contour of the kayak needed a spacer to make the surfaces mate correctly as well.
Not sure what this was in it's past life, but my son picked up this really hard rubber round thing next to the boat ramp at Hagg Lake several years ago, and I had it
laying around waiting to be put to use.
Sliced a 3/16" sliver of it off with the band saw, and feathered down the center with an air sander wheel to match the contour of the kayak.
(http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt128/INSAYN_BCR/Kayak%20mods/Hobie%20side%20RAM%20holder/P5210105.jpg)
I can apply enough force to where the rod holder loses grip on the ball, yet no body flex on the kayak.
The paddle can still be place on the left side, and still be deployable.
(http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt128/INSAYN_BCR/Kayak%20mods/Hobie%20side%20RAM%20holder/P5210085.jpg)
(http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt128/INSAYN_BCR/Kayak%20mods/Hobie%20side%20RAM%20holder/P5210083.jpg)
(http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt128/INSAYN_BCR/Kayak%20mods/Hobie%20side%20RAM%20holder/P5210084.jpg)
Mission accomplished. 8)
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That's pretty clever! Nice work!
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Some very nice ideas. I am taking it slow rigging my new Outback until I figure exactly what I want and where to put it. So far I have put two RAM ball mounts on the gunnels. One for my FF and the other for my rod.
I wish that RAM would be design a "wedge mount" that was sized to fit the Hobie internal rod holders. They make a wedge mount to fit the sail mast hole but not a larger wedge mount to go into the rod holders. There are many more placement opportunities in the rod holders than in a single sail mount. I think there would be some sales opportunity here for RAM as it would provide 4 more locations on my Outback and many other kayaks to add any hardware I wished suing the existing factory rod holders. The factory internal rod mounts are a nice touch but not as functional as they could be if they would receive a larger style Ram wedge mount. Just a thought....RAM are you watching these forums?
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An option you have is to use a Scotty gimbal mount. They are smaller than the diameter of the molded in rod holders, but you can add a bit of diameter to them with the use of peel-and-stick insulation foam and electricians tape. This is what I used when putting together my newest edition of a camcorder system. Simply wrap in layers: foam, tape, foam, tape... Repeat until you get a good snug fit. Wrap the foam in a spiral. One downside to the gimbal mount is that it may twist in the rod holder a little and there is no locking mechanism like the other Scotty bases have. This would allow you to get a Ram fitting that fits into the Scotty bases, or go with some options Scotty has.
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Thanks Rawkfish. Another great idea! Dave
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Geez, I gotta get to work now!! Thanks guys for great ideas
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Thought I'd share the rigging and tinkering I've done on my Revo recently. Hopefully it will provide some ideas to those who are rigging up new boats
I've modified my D.I.Y. camera extender arm (http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,6244.0.html) a little so that it can fit into a Scotty Power Lock instead of one of the smaller rod holders I was originally using. I did this so that I would be more likely to actually use the rod holder for its originally intended purpose when the camera extender arm isn't in it(I really don't like the smaller ones). To make it fit into the Power Lock rod holder I did what I did with the gimbal mount so it would fit into the Hobie molded rod holders - many layers of insulation foam strips and electrical tape.
Using the gimbal mount as a receiver for the camera arm setup became a pain because I lost a spot to store a rod since the gimbal mount sat in the molded-in rod holder. I ended up mounting a standard Scotty mount with bolts and large fender washers right behind the seat and paired the Power Lock rod holder with an Adjustable Rod Holder Extender (No.459), a Gear Head Mount (No.428), and a Mounting Post (No.312). They all come together as a set (No.429). The numbers are the Scotty catalog number btw. This setup works really well for the camera arm positioning and has minimal camera shake. It also has a large range of motion so it can be used for storing an extra rod behind me.
(Note: I was sponsored by Scotty during Kayak Wars 2011.)
UPDATE: The use of the Scotty Power Lock rod holder in this location wasn't a good idea, see more recent posts.
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I found a really slick way to run the chords of a sounder through the hull. This also allows you to easily take the sounder out and move it to a different kayak if you have another you like to use as long as they both have a foam-puck style transducer mount. I drilled a hole with a 1 1/4" spade bit close to where the sounder is mounted. Then I bought a couple of rubber stoppers that have a tapered diameter that goes from a little smaller to a little bigger than that of the drilled hole. In one of the stoppers I drilled a hole just big enough to fit the chords of my sounder through but is a snug fit. I just eye-balled it but I think it was somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4". After I drilled the hole I cut a slit all the way through to the hole. Now I simply run the plug through the hole in the kayak from the inside out and wrap the drilled stopper around the chord, then plug the hole with the stopper. The drilled stopper goes with the kayak that is using the sounder and the non-drilled stopper goes with the kayak that isn't using the sounder. Both my Mini-X and the Revolution have the same hole drilled near where the sounder is mounted. Having the sounder on a RAM mount makes switching the sounder really easy, you just need an extra 1" ball base. The chords also need to be wrapped up well to make switching the unit easy.
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Great Post! I have a few hints to add to Rawk's post from when I rigged my sounders this way. Make sure you drill the hole much smaller than the test tube plug, you want to be able to really snug it in there or it can pop out when you least want it to, a round hole is also critical DAMHIK :o. After time and use the deck hole can also wear a bit (plastic edges fatigue etc.) and allow the plug not seal well or even to push through . When in doubt start with a smaller plug so you can hop up to a bigger one if you need to re-cut the hole. I cut mine (a "step bit" is more forgiving than a spade bit DAMHIK ::)) so it stopped about 1/3-1/2 of the way up the plug. Somewhere I have a handful of these plugs already drilled if anyone wants one I can bring them to the next Oregon meet-up.
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Thanks for sharing your spiffing ideas, gents. I like that transducer plug with the slit in it.
I had been thinking of just cutting a small notch in the inner lip of my forward hatch cover (Tarpon 140), as there is already a small warp in it on the rear side. I could make an exact fit, and maybe add a soft foam gasket of some kind (if necessary) to completely seal it.I think waves washing over the bow and hatch cover when I'm paddling wouldn't be directly hitting the warped area.
But I like the slit plug idea. I'm waiting until receive my new FF/gps before I determine how to mount it to my side plate. I might have to install some ball mounts or Scotty mounts behind my seat, if I can find a good location. I already have the Harmony flush-mount tubes installed there.
I still need to install a base for a flag pole, and maybe a camera mount behind my seat (would want to shoot the fishing, and not the fisher). I now stick my flag pole (going to replace it with a better one with a light on top) in a pvc tube that is zip-tied to my milk crate. But I'm thinking that sometimes I'll want to ditch the crate (so i can fit a large fish bag in the rear well). Might even get rid of the crate altogether.
Thanks again for a clear explanation and pics. A couple of additional well-placed mounts behind the seat looks very useful! I could use one for a rod holder, and the other for a camera mount. I'm trying to avoid adding anything to the cockpit area that will be a flyline hanger-upper, but I plan to use a stripping basket, anyway, especially if I'm casting a fast-sinking shooting head.
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I still need to install a base for a flag pole, and maybe a camera mount behind my seat (would want to shoot the fishing, and not the fisher). I now stick my flag pole (going to replace it with a better one with a light on top) in a pvc tube that is zip-tied to my milk crate. But I'm thinking that sometimes I'll want to ditch the crate (so i can fit a large fish bag in the rear well). Might even get rid of the crate altogether.
Take a look at this flag mount and see if this is something that will work for you.
It's really low profile.
http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,6232.0.html (http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,6232.0.html)
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To add to Rawkfish and Pelagic Paddler's advice on using the rubber plug, you can make drilling the hole in rubber a bit easier if you put the rubber plug in the deep freezer over night and drill it promptly while it's it's frozen.
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Very slick Jeff! How many ram mounts do you have in total? Do you buy them in bulk ;)
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Very slick Jeff! How many ram mounts do you have in total? Do you buy them in bulk ;)
The count is currently at 8 RAM balls and 3 Scotty mounts. ;D
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Very slick Jeff! How many ram mounts do you have in total? Do you buy them in bulk ;)
The count is currently at 8 RAM balls and 3 Scotty mounts. ;D
Nice! It must be the secret to your AOTY win!
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What the deciding factor was for mounting your FF to the side instead of using the sailing mast hole?
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What the deciding factor was for mounting your FF to the side instead of using the sailing mast hole?
To be honest when I was first getting everything rigged up, I had a 1" ball round base and didn't have a sail-post mount - so that's what I went with. Since I wanted it out of the way, I mounted it up forward and using that space on the side looked nice. Since I've done it that way, I've noticed a few benefits. It doesn't get in my way when I'm accessing the hatch while on the water. Also, I have noticed I will sometimes rest my kill bag on the hatch and the pedals while I'm stuffing a fish in it so it isn't in the way while I'm doing this either. I have decided I am going to install a nice big section of bungee across the hatch (not affixed to the hatch but permanently affixed next to the hatch on one side and a hook on the other side so it completely crosses the hatch) so I can shove the fins of my mirage drive under this bungee strap when the drive is out. This will give me an easy spot to store my drive while coming in for a surf landing. The FF is out of the way for this too.
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http://www.demonick.com/kayak/HMR/Bar.Mount/Aluminum.Bar.Installed.1024.jpg (http://www.demonick.com/kayak/HMR/Bar.Mount/Aluminum.Bar.Installed.1024.jpg)
Not a great photo, but it shows the side mounting of my FF on a RAM extender arm and a ball mount top and bottom. When I am out I push the arm a bit more to the left over the side. This gets the unit close enough for an easy reach to the controls, yet out of the way for fishing.
I tried a temporary center mount and found it often got in my way. The mast hole was too far forward for easy viewing and control.
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http://www.demonick.com/kayak/HMR/Bar.Mount/Aluminum.Bar.Installed.1024.jpg (http://www.demonick.com/kayak/HMR/Bar.Mount/Aluminum.Bar.Installed.1024.jpg)
I too like a side mount. Not a great photo, but it shows the side mounting of my FF on a RAM extender arm and a ball mount top and bottom. When I am out I push the arm a bit more to the left over the side. This gets the unit close enough for an easy reach to the controls, yet out of the way for fishing.
I tried a temporary center mount and found it often got in my way. The mast hole was too far forward for easy viewing and control.
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Welcome back to Pimp My Revo. :laughing7: I moved around a couple of things on my boat recently and wanted to share.
For starters, I realized I wanted to sit side-saddle on both sides of my kayak and also thought it would obviously be best for re-entry purposes to have both sides fee and clear(Why I decided this just recently is beyond me). First, I moved the RAM rod holder up next to the cockpit forward(it's original location can be seen in the first post of this thread). Next, I needed to move the hand-held GPS mount out of the way. I'll let Xzibit of the show Pimp My Ride explain what I did:
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-110312062213-35071299.png)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-100312170223-35062485.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-100312165609-35021936.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-100312165607-35011901.jpeg)
This freed up a lot of space and it works perfectly!
I also changed where I put the D.I.Y. camera extender arm for an over-the-shoulder camcorder view. I realized after a couple of trips out with using the Scotty Power Lock rod holder setup that it wasn't going to work. It made accessing the rear gear well from that side of the boat impossible. So I drilled a little bit of the bottom out of my RAM Revolution tubes behind the seat so the brass nipple could poke out the bottom of the tubes on either side. The camera extender arm fits perfectly in these rod holders now without any additional modification to the extender arm.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-100312165611-35041881.jpeg)
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-100312165610-35031746.jpeg)
A little bonus is that the brass nipple rests against the side of the kayak when it is sticking out the bottom of the RAM tube. This provides extra stability for the Playsport.
Since this will tie up one of the RAM tubes, I needed another one for quick rod storage on whatever side I have the camcorder on. Who ever said* the Revo doesn't have enough space for mounting rod holders? ;D Can I get a La Jolla Peacock?
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/527-100312165613-35051132.jpeg)
(I never actually take that many rods out with me ::))
*I probably did at some point :D
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I realize this is an old post but I felt the need to revive and give props. Rawkfish, this set up is sick! I really like how clean everything is. My FF is expected to arrive this week and I'm trying to figure out how I want to set up my Outback. After two months in this thing I have a good idea on how I want to rig. I may borrow a couple of your ideas for my Outback.
I have been making use of the built in rod holders and it has done fine but I find that I would much rather have something a little easier to reach with the added option of different angles of maneuverability.
I was thinking about strapping one of those three tube rod holders to the back of my milk crate but I don't really like having the crate behind me. I realize it's a cheap route to go but it just takes up so much space and it is hard to reach without sitting side saddle. I don't sit side saddle much anyway.
Running into Coosbayyaker at Sunset I noticed his crate-free set up and I really like how fresh it is. It's so tidy looking. More room for fish in the tank well! I may also adopt some of his ideas.
Again this site is so amazing for tips and tricks on fishing/rigging etc.
It really cuts down on the aches and pains of trial and error. Thanks
again nwka. ;D
If anyone has any sweet ideas or pics of rigging for a ff/gps combo on an Outback or similar please feel free to share.
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I'm glad you did revive it because I have been lazy about doing a proper through the deck fitting for my fishfinder wires on my adventure. I really like the rubber stopper idea as it would make it easy to move my fishfinder from yak to yak.
T2
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Thanks guys! Believe it or not, it's still a work in progress(it may always be that way too). I've been meaning to update this with a complete video detailing the full set-up. I'm glad to hear it's helped you with deciding how to rig up your boat! That's why I put this post together and have updated it.
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I will be waiting semi-patiently for the video walk through. ;D
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It's a great thread. I continue to refer back to it.
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It's a great thread. I continue to refer back to it.
+1. Some of rigging options even work for other kayak models.
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It is a great thread... almost every rigging option all on one kayak. ;)
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It is a great thread... almost every rigging option all on one kayak. ;)
Oh yeah, the floating porcupine! I want a shot with the full La Jolla peacock fan. ;)
Just teasing you Jeff.
-Spot-
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Oh yeah, the floating porcupine! I want a shot with the full La Jolla peacock fan. ;)
I'll try and get one just for you! ;)
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After doing some more research and planning on my permanent rigging of the Outback I decided that Yak Attack Gear Trac is a better option for me. I store my kayak upside down and bolted down Ram balls will surely be in the way. I like the idea of the gear trac system. It's clean, I can mount it flush, I have the option to move things around according to the fishing I'm going to be doing and it's universal. I can still use Ram balls but they don't have to be permanent. I'm going to ditch the milk crate and store gear inside the boat. The only things I really need handy are my fish bonker, lip grips and hawg trough. Jigs and such can be stored in the crotch hatch or I can keep stuff in my Pfd pockets. Clutter tends to make me freak out and I think it will be fun to get things dialed in to my liking. So I guess this thread is turning into more of an inspiration and less of a copy and paste in design. So again, thanks!
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Good to hear! Before I started using a Hobie Livewell my rear gear well was reserved for my kill bag and my dry bag. All of my gear went below deck so I think you've got a good plan.
I installed a set of Yak Attack Gear Tracks on my PA12 and I really like them. I have been considering installing them on my Revo too.
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Hey Jeff, can you post some pictures of your bow bungee addition?
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Hey Jeff, can you post some pictures of your bow bungee addition?
+1 I'd like to see how you went about it...I've been thinking adding this, but it seems like it would make getting into the front hatch a pain.
I haven't seen this thread before so I'm a bit late with this, but dang...great job Rawk. I'm going to steal some of your ideas. Thanks for posting this!
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Hey Jeff, can you post some pictures of your bow bungee addition?
+2
Is it similar to Demonick's deck bungee? http://www.demonick.com/kayak/HMR/Bow.Bungee.Lacing/HMR.Bow.Bungee.Lacing.html (http://www.demonick.com/kayak/HMR/Bow.Bungee.Lacing/HMR.Bow.Bungee.Lacing.html)
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Hey Jeff, can you post some pictures of your bow bungee addition?
+2
Is it similar to Demonick's deck bungee? http://www.demonick.com/kayak/HMR/Bow.Bungee.Lacing/HMR.Bow.Bungee.Lacing.html (http://www.demonick.com/kayak/HMR/Bow.Bungee.Lacing/HMR.Bow.Bungee.Lacing.html)
Similar but more simply as I recall.
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Bungee on the bow:
I wanted to add some bungee to the bow mainly because I wanted to have a place to easily store the mirage drive when I needed to pull it for whatever reason. I didn't want to rely on putting it in the rear gear well since that space is now usually taken up by the livewell and also I didn't want to chance dropping the drive while I was moving it behind me. By storing it on the bow, I don't even need to un-clip and move the leash for the drive. The bungee also creates a very handy temporary place to stow my paddle. I just shove one blade under the chords and my paddle is held right where I can easily grab it again.
The design is really simple: six bungee hooks, six pop-rivets, and a length of bungee. I used hooks for the whole thing since I didn't want to have to use other parts and also because I like the idea of being able to temporarily remove the bungee. I could also use this bungee system to hold onto my kill bag, but I haven't really tried to use it that way yet.
How it looks when set for normal use. In this position, the bungee is fairly loose and isn't really stretched at all.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/medium_527-030413192910-4090360.jpeg) (http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4091)
This tightens the bungee a little to the point where it makes the bow hatch a little more secure. I use it this way when going through surf but the drive is locked in.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/medium_527-030413192909-40851410.jpeg) (http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4090)
Here it is with the drive stowed. The bungee is pretty taught and drive is well secured and doesn't wiggle much at all. This also provides a bonus of the hatch being REALLY water tight.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/medium_527-030413192914-40911804.jpeg) (http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4092)
Bungee in the wrapped up position when not in use so the hatch can easily be opened.
(http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/gallery/medium_527-030413192916-4092831.jpeg) (http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4093)
If you use pop-rivets to mount the bungee hooks, make sure there are no sharp edges on them after installing them. Sharp edges will obviously screw up the bungee chord.
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I like it; good idea to use all hooks so you can configure the bungee differently or remove it all together.
Another thing I noticed in your pictures is a bag mounted to the back of your seat: is this a hobie accessory or something you've found and added? Great idea, I'd really like to have something like that.
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I like it; good idea to use all hooks so you can configure the bungee differently or remove it all together.
Another thing I noticed in your pictures is a bag mounted to the back of your seat: is this a hobie accessory or something you've found and added? Great idea, I'd really like to have something like that.
Good question. This product has come up a few times in some discussions I've had with people so I'm glad I can get on this thread.
It's a Crack Of Dawn Apex Rod Holder Bag (on amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/Crack-Dawn-Apex-Rod-Holder/dp/B0030HO64Q))
I just used zip-ties and the included straps to attach it to the seat.
EDIT: Surf to Summit makes one too that looks like the same thing.
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I like it; good idea to use all hooks so you can configure the bungee differently or remove it all together.
Another thing I noticed in your pictures is a bag mounted to the back of your seat: is this a hobie accessory or something you've found and added? Great idea, I'd really like to have something like that.
Good question. This product has come up a few times in some discussions I've had with people so I'm glad I can get on this thread.
It's a Crack Of Dawn Apex Rod Holder Bag (on amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/Crack-Dawn-Apex-Rod-Holder/dp/B0030HO64Q))
I just used zip-ties and the included straps to attach it to the seat.
I like the seat bag idea. I'm all about keeping it simple. I'm waiting for all my Yak Attack gear to arrive. Can't wait to start my rigging. I may have to pick up that seat bag. It would be perfect for my fish bonker and gaff. Amazon has a great price for that thing. I've seen similar makes and models for $10-15 more.
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so when`s the video? not sure it is needed but still would like to see a walk around and inside around video tutorial, am still deciding on what to do with my revo`s as far as drillin and cutting, time and use will tell me what my needs are, I sure like your revo though what a fishing machine!
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+1 on the video!
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Under what conditions do you see yourself wanting carry your Mirage Drive strapped to your bow, for long periods of time?
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Under what conditions do you see yourself wanting carry your Mirage Drive strapped to your bow, for long periods of time?
It wouldn't be strapped there for long periods of time, but when landing or launching it makes for a very convenient place to store it. That was were I would store mine on my old outback.
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After a while you will find when launching, walking the yak into the water and dropping the rudder and mirage drive by hand is easier than paddling out, stowing the paddle, then dropping the drive and rudder.
Also, after a while you will find when landing, loosening the rudder hold down cable, charging the shoreline, pulling up the mirage drive and just laying in the drive well and coasting, until you can hop out in shallow water is easier than paddling in.
I use my paddle on about 1 out of 10 trips.
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Not to get off subject...I am considering the revo as my second boat. I like the deck space on my Outback but the sleekness of the revo is attractive. It might be nice to not feel so sluggish in the water. The Outback proves to be pretty 'tanky'. Don't get me wrong I love my boat! But the grass is always greener...
To add to what demonick said about launching and landing. I agree it's easier and it also adds a cool factor. Every time I come in from fishing there's always someone waiting to ask questions about the mirage drive. I should be a Hobie sales rep...I'm always promoting their boats anyway.
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Not to get off subject...I am considering the revo as my second boat. I like the deck space on my Outback but the sleekness of the revo is attractive. It might be nice to not feel so sluggish in the water. The Outback proves to be pretty 'tanky'. Don't get me wrong I love my boat! But the grass is always greener...
To add to what demonick said about launching and landing. I agree it's easier and it also adds a cool factor. Every time I come in from fishing there's always someone waiting to ask questions about the mirage drive. I should be a Hobie sales rep...I'm always promoting their boats anyway.
+1 Everytime I go out.
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I had a couple of reasons for storing the mirage drive on the bow.
First, I wanted somewhere to put the mirage drive while going out and coming back in through the surf if I wanted to paddle. I find that while I use the mirage drive in the surf a majority of the time, there are still times when I will want to stow the drive and paddle in. I like to try and surf waves on the way back in sometimes and having the drive locked in and the rudder down makes it more difficult to control the kayak in the surf. Of course, you can put one pedal forward and one back and that works ok, but it's still in the way of your legs and when you go to hop out, the weight of the kayak can sometimes be resting on the posts of the fins, which ends up bending them. I recommend pulling the rudder all the way up if you think you will be picked up by a wave and want to try to brace the wave and stay upright though. In my experience if your rudder is down, you pretty much have little to no chance of controlling yourself if a wave picks you up.
The second reason I wanted to stow my drive on the bow is so that I have a place to put big fish (under my legs) since my rear gear well is usually taken up by the Hobie Livewell. That way I can do the happy paddle back in. ;)
The bungees also work nicely as a place to keep my kill bag while out on the water or a quick place to stow my paddle.
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I've never done a surf launch.
The bungee looks like a tight, secure place to stow the drive on the way out and the way in.