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Basic rod holder install

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Just a few pics and explanation of a simple rod holder install. Nothing too fancy here and you can use the same principals for all rod holder installs. When the rod holder is bulky or not symmetrical make a template out of paper and trace it on to your hull.

When mounting the rod holder take some time in deciding where to put it. You only get one try at this so make it count. Make sure it will keep your rod and rod butt out of your paddle stroke if you're a paddler and clear of your knees if you're a pedaler. Think about self rescue and landing fish. Ask yourself would it be in the way if you had to self rescue and if you had a large fish would it make pulling it aboard hard? One last thing to consider is if there's things like rudder lines on the inside of the hull. Make sure there's clearance or clear the way during installation.

Once you've found a spot you like make sure you have access to the inside. Try reaching and if you can get there then you can use nuts and bolts. For places where you don't have access you can use pop rivets. Some people like rivets no matter what but that's another story.

1. Place the mount upside down on the hull or use your template.

2. Trace all cutting areas.

3.Cut out w/ dremel or hole saw.

4. Slowly trim to size. Try to rough fit the holder and note which side needs to be shaved.

5. Nice tight fit.

6. Drill out screw/rivet holes. (In this photo angling away from rudder line)

7. Liberally apply Marine Goop around all holes and on underside of rod holder mount.

8. Insert all screws and use large washers (all stainless of course). If there's a tight fit w/ hardware customize as needed.

9. A nice bead of Goop gooshing out means a good watertight seal. Clean excess.

10. All done! Now go fish!!

That's exactly the same place I located my scotty on my Adventure, yet I didn't use the flush mount. Are you going to seal up the bottom of the "shaft" to prevent it from letting water infiltrate when the holder is in place?


--- Quote from: 'Yak Monkey on June 16, 2009, 11:08:59 AM ---That's exactly the same place I located my scotty on my Adventure, yet I didn't use the flush mount. Are you going to seal up the bottom of the "shaft" to prevent it from letting water infiltrate when the holder is in place?

--- End quote ---

There's actually two versions of this Scotty flushmount. One has and open shaft and the other is capped. I'm using the capped one here. If you have the one w/ the hole you can use a PVC end cap and glue it over the hole after the install.


Thanks, Zee. Nice and simple, which I always appreciate, being the simpleton that I am. ::)
I have some 3M 4200 (similar to 5200, but not quite so permanent,as it can later be chiseled off) that I have to use up, since I had to open the tube to use some on another application. The instructions on the tube say to use it all within 48 hours as it begins to cure once you open it. (I cheat and seal it back up really tightly and store it in a ziplock bag in the fridge for weeks, and its still good to use).
So I am going to use the 4200 instead of marine goop on my Scotty bases (didn't come with gaskets of any kind). This stuff can be messy, and it is white, but I am going to mask about 1/8" away from the outside edge of the rod-holder base so I can just peel away the excess slop when I'm done.
I am using sandpaper to slightly rough up the surfaces where the sealant goes, to get a good mechanical bond and seal.

I also have some flush mount tube-style holders that came with nice thick neoprene gaskets. I was advised by the crew at Alder Creek to use contact cement with these, instead of marine goop. These are going on the Tarpon 140 in the factory locations just behind the seat.

I am stocked up with marine goop, contact cement, 4200, and a bunch of other stuff that can be messy and hazardous to yaks. Hard to choose the best poison for the job, sometimes. :-\

Ling Banger:
took 1/4" sea board from slap plastics and hand planed down to 1/8 for topside displacement. Used R'Oleum universal canary yeller and can't even see them. Let paint cure fully before the marine goop slather or you get curdle. When using scotties locking flush mount, make sure not to push any stinky mariner goops up into the locking mechanism, or it gums up the works and ya gotta unbolt and peel it out of the channel where the lock/switch orbits. Went stiff here too because my locking jobber is for stabilizer. For best results remove masking tape before the tackiness/bonding of toxic goop gets stronger than the tape pull-up/removal force.


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