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BigFishy with a big springer!

Topic: Pool noodle method for transducer  (Read 6810 times)

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  • Date Registered: Nov 2009
  • Posts: 133
Has anyone tried this? I've seen it referenced a couple times in other threads.

Question: Does your transducer sit directly on the bottom of the hull using the pool noodle, or do you still need to rig up a water containment area to shoot it through? Any need for Marine Goop with the Poodle Noodle method?

Finally, anyone recommend a good spot in the greater Seattle area (preferably east side) to pick up a rechargeable 12v battery? I may just order one from Cabela's, but rather pick it up.

Thanks!
John


bsteves

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Unless you're Wali (FishesFromTupperWare) the general procedure is to cut  a hole in your pool noodle the shape of your transducer and use Goop to seal the pool noodle segment down to the bottom of the inside of your hull.  I find most pool noodles a little small for this application and prefer to use a larger piece of closed cell foam.

Once installed, you place a bit of water in the cup you've made with the foam and transducer hole and you push your transducer in to the water filled cup.  The idea is to get a tight fit and no air bubbles between your transducer and you hull.

I don't have any photos of this, but I'm sure there are bunch on this site in other threads.  If I find some I'll post them here.

Brian
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Lee

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In my installation I went with a foam gardening pad (the thing old ladies kneel on when pruning flowers).  I cut a square about an inch or so larger than the transducer, then cut out the center to fit the transducer tightly.

Goop/silicone the piece of foam to your hull (do NOT put the transducer in yet) and if your foam is no closed cell, put a coating of your adhesive on the area where the transducer will be.

Once it's DRY, put some water in, then push the transducer in (some water should squirt out, or you didn't put enough!)  You'll likely have to add water every time you use it.
 


Yarjammer

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ACE hardware has the batteries, although the one from Cabelas is cheaper and comes with a charger... (I went with the Cabelas one)

Contrary to the others, I gooped my transducer to the hull instead of using the "water cup method."  I absolutley hate the musty smell and mold you get when water sits in there for a while, besides its going to evaporate on a hot day anyway.  The temp inside my hull on a warm sunny day gets as high as 115*.


steelheadr

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Instead of a pool noodle, I cut up a piece of closed cell foam block that is sold as part of a kayak/canoe tie down rig.

Jay
"Fast enough to get there...but slow enough to see. Not known for predictability"  Thanks to Jimmy Buffet for describing my life...again



Spot

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Closed Cell Foam is the schiznitt!

I have a couple of 3' x 3' x 4" sheets at home and I'll say it again:  If anybody needs some, let me know.  I'd be happy to share!

-Spot-
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« Last Edit: April 08, 2010, 01:51:38 PM by Zee »
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  • Date Registered: Nov 2009
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Thanks guys - this is a big help.


Jammer

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Closed Cell Foam is the schiznitt!

I have a couple of 3' x 3' x 4" sheets at home and I'll say it again:  If anybody needs some, let me know.  I'd be happy to share!

-Spot-
I would love a chunk if your still sitting on it. I will send a PM. Thanks Spot
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demonick

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I recently mounted my transducer using a small block of Spot's closed foam (Thanks!).  The mounting is trivial.  Use a long, sharp, narrow knife to cut the hole in the foam.  The hard part is routing the cable.
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  • Date Registered: Nov 2006
  • Posts: 1704
Yep! What they all already said works great, but my solution is simpler.

I just jamb the transducer against the bottom of the hull with a pool noodle. It is a BIG noodle (about 5" dia) I think its called a monster noodle at Fred Meyer and I don't use any glue* at all. That way you can move it readily from boat to boat.



That works especially well in my Hobie Adventure as the nub under the seat for the seat plugs fits nicely into the hole in the pool noodle, securing the whole assembly in place. Sonar sensitivity does not seem to be affected, but the temperature does read a couple of degrees off.


They say, there should not be any air between the transducer and the hull (water).

"They" are right! There should not be anything between the transducer and the hull.

 But apparently, the mechanical joint between the transducer and the hull forms a good enuf couple for the sonar signals to pass unfettered. A bit of Vaseline probably would not hurt, but mine has been working like that for the last 4+ years or so just fine. :dontknow: I have compared reading with guys in other boats next to me and seen the same things (depth and structure). In fact, with this mount and the Lowrance M56, it's the first that I have been able to see my bait or the downrigger on the sonar.

"They" may not be taking into account our thin plastic hulls. Although I've heard from a few folk that it did not work for them, its still worth the effort because there isn't any! If you don't like the way it performs, you can just glue it down. ;D




*If you do use glue, I much prefer Goop or Lexel instead of silicon.
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