Hobie Revo Rigging

My new Revo is scheduled for delivery on Wednesday, and I am thinking about rigging it.  Anchor trolley, cleat, and deck lines I have covered.  Plenty of examples on the web of FF and rod holder placement that I have looked at.  From the examples it is clear to me I want to use Scotty compact deck mounts rather than surface mounts.  Provided I can reach the locations from the inside, I am thinking of installing 4 of them in the gunwale, 2 about even with the mast mount, and 2 just forward of the mesh storage.  The front 2 would be so mounted that if I installed a mounting bar between them the bar would not interfere with the mast.  (Yes, at some point I am interested in trying to sail the thing - give me a year or so). 

For some reason I have an aversion to shooting my sonar signal through the plastic, so I am thinking about side mounting the transducer.  So I am thinking one of one of the forward mounts or the end of a bar as a location to mount the transducer assembly, and one of the mid-ship mounts for the FF.  Other mounts/bar for rod holder(s).

Questions:

Would a forward bar so mounted interfere with the pedal travel?
What and why are the inside "serrations" on the gunwale to either side of the mirage drive? 

What and why are the inside "serrations" on the gunwale to either side of the mirage drive? 

Those are for your feet when you paddle.

Z

Zee--Thanks for the advice re the rod holder on my revo. I went out for the first time fishing today and it worked like a charm.
T2

Zee--Thanks for the advice re the rod holder on my revo. I went out for the first time fishing today and it worked like a charm.
T2

Glad it worked out for you.

Z

Demonic, congtratulations on your new Revo purchase! It is a very sweet boat! Have lots of fun outfitting it!  Hope to see you on the water. holt

Zee--Thanks for the advice re the rod holder on my revo. I went out for the first time fishing today and it worked like a charm.

Did I miss something?  A rigging thread maybe?

I was quizzing Zee on how to make my mount and rod holder work. Here is the link.
http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,4369.0.html

T2

The Revo arrived on Wednesday, I installed the turbo fins and the sailing rudder with no problems, though the fin posts were glued in with lock-tite. 

Now I am looking at mounting a bar across the front of the cockpit close to the mast hole.  Some sort of flush mounts on both gunwales.  What I am NOT finding from Scotty nor RAM is a method to mount the bar to the flush deck mounts.  A post with a round clamp or U-bolts would work.  I suppose non-flush deck mounts with a squeeze clamp would work too. 

I am finding plenty of bar squeeze clamps for various accessories but nothing with a post for a deck mount.  Ideas?

Others may find this useful.  I think I have figured a way to create a removable bar system from Scotty parts.

Two flush deck mounts, either #244 or #444 - one on each gunwale.

Four #412 Replacement Rod Holder Posts (page 17 Scotty 2010 catalog).  Bolt 2 of them together to create a gender-bender (male-male).

Two #245 (1-1/4") or #287 (7/8") bar mounts flipped upside-down to snap into the gender bender and secure the bar.   The gender-bender holds the bar about 3" above the flush mount.

Just a quick price check on the web:

(2) #444  $24   or   #244  $16
(2) #245  $30
(4) #412  $40 (?)      (Can't find a vendor who carries these - estimate $10 each)

Total $86-$94   (assuming the PVC is available from the garage)

The Rhynobar is cheaper but from the small photos on the web page I can't figure out how it mounts to the boat.  The advantage of the Scotty solution is that it is removable.

Have you looked at the Scotty #327 Fender Ring? It has an ID of 7/8" and would probably work pretty well. You could use pvc pipe with endcaps, just glue one endcap and not the other so it's removable. That's what I would do anyway.

Have you looked at the Scotty #327 Fender Ring? It has an ID of 7/8" and would probably work pretty well. You could use pvc pipe with endcaps, just glue one endcap and not the other so it's removable. That's what I would do anyway.

Great idea!  I was looking at those, and the oarlocks, trying to figure out how to secure them.  Simple - end caps!  That handles horizontal slippage, now just need to figure out how to prevent rotational slippage. 

Drill a hole through the pvc and the fender ring, insert pin and go. Or you could buy 3/4" pvc and use bicycle innertube as a sleeve in between the fender ring and the pvc.

The Revo is a nice boat, and my elbow will not survive if I continue with a paddle boat, so I was kind of forced into it.  I must say the OK T13A is a better fishing platform.  Accommodating the mirage drive really affected the design.  For example a Scotty compact fluch deck mount will NOT fit on the gunwale.  The rectangular flush mount seems like it will just barely fit. 

The Wheelez tires will both fit in the front hatch, but there is no place to lash down the frame, because there are no lash points or deck lines at the bow.  I'll be sticking 4 pad eyes up there.  Battery placement in problematic as is power plug as is transducer. 

I am going to make it work. 

I think I may buy the hardware to build both of the best ideas, 7/8" bar with fender rings, and 1-1/4" bar with railmounts and gender-bender as described.  I do want a removable system.  All this provided I prove to myself the bar will not hinder the pedals. 

Hook1 is a great vendor!

Continuing the conversation with myself  

Karen at Hook1 sent me this link to a CA kayaker, Halibutt, who rigged his Revo with three bars.  I am trying to track down the mounts he used.  The video is 5 minutes long, and once it goes into the store, it's pointless to watch, except it ends with a lot of fish porn.

You could have somebody such as INSAYN weld you up a piece of stainless or aluminum pipe 1" long centered on a 1 1/2 square flat bar. x2 of course. Drill 4 holes in that flat bar and you have a mount. Drill a hole in the desired spot on the pipe and put a set screw in. You could polish or paint it so there isn't any sharp edges. If I had a welder I would do it for ya.