drilled the big hole, the rubber dealy does not work now what?

Well after having carefully thought through the process of drilling a 3/8 hole in my revo to mount a single screw bungie cord connector and use one of the rubber inserts from Hobie to mount it, I learned that this is not the thing to do. The rubber insert pulled through, which now,  I see was very predictable.  (yea yea yea, measure and think twice before cuttin or drillin)    The hole is temporarily patched with a rubber deally however it is temporary.  How do I fill the hole to get back to somewhat normal?  I do have some Revo plastic from other successful cuttin and drillin.  Thank you in advance for solutions and type of equipment to use.  Am sure there will be no harrassment 
Holt

Check out this thread:

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,1526.msg11957.html#msg11957

It has two ideas for you:
1) Fill the hole using a soldering iron and scrap material
2) Fill the hole with a nut and gooped bolt

The ease and elegance of 2Pole's solution pissed me off.    But a year later, my patch is still going strong.

-Spot-

For smaller holes, like a 3/8 size, I've done both of the previous mentioned solutions from Spot and they work very well. I've also found a third one that is pretty darn quick. I've only used it on areas that I am able to reach to the inside to the backside of the area needing to be patched. I use a small butane torch with a somewhat low flame setting. I'll take one of the curly pieces that are produced when a hole is drilled (I now keep them around for this very reason) and stick it into the hole needing to be plugged. I take a piece of wood about 2 inches wide(I have an old wooden spoon that works well for this) and place it inside the kayak, against the backside. I heat up the area with the butane torch with a circular motion, starting at a bit of a distance, then getting a little closer as I get a feel for how fast it is heating up the plastic. Make sure to not heat up the plastic too much or you'll have a much bigger hole than 3/8"! It doesn't take very long for the area to heat up and the curly plastic piece to melt. Once it does, I quickly set down the torch, and pick up a scrap piece of kayak plastic(a scrap piece of wood will also work here) and push it up against the hole, while applying pressure from the inside of the kayak with the other wood piece. Presto! The hole is patched! As you can imagine, there is a limited amount of places on a kayak where this is an option, but it can save some time when it can be used.

drill it bigger and install a flush mount

If you are in PDX come by Alder Creek Jantzen Beach and we can plastic weld it for you.

We're moving right now, so call first and make sure we can find the welder

503-285-0464
Jason

Jason and all, thank you for the input regarding what to do regarding filling the hole, now holes. Tried stainless steel rivet and it pulled through .  creating hole number 2.  May be a bit before I get to Pdx Jason, and I do look forward to being in your store. Thank you for your offer!

I sure do appreciate the wonderful resource created here in NWKA!
holt

use cherry rivets and drill the hole the same size as the rivet.

J

Holt,
I'll just come by and take it off your hands, then you won't have to repair it. I won't even charge you for the service!!
Dan in Oly!

use cherry rivets and drill the hole the same size as the rivet.

I love this place.  Had to Google "Cherry rivets".  Self-plugging.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/2009Individual/Cat09098.pdf

Cherry rivets, interesting, are they aluminum and if so how would they do with saltwater exposure.

Dan, very interesting offer, I need to drill afew more holes first, thinking of a reverse hatch cover in the bottom of the boat to see what is under the surface     , perhaps you will have a shot at the boat someday, but caution you not to hold your breath

Do you salt or fresh water yak fish in Olympia area? What yak do you use?
Holt

cherry rivets have a plastic sheath that is perferated. when you use the rivet gun, they expand on the backside. kind of like a molly screw. they're the only rivets i've been able to make work.

I ordered several hundred from OK...the only place I could find them.

I'm not sure if they're aluminum or steel, but I haven't had any issues with rusting, and that's what OK, Wildy etc use in their flushmounts.

Thank you Nanook.
holt