Adding Anchors to Kayaks

Those bruce anchors only really work well for mud, they are harder than average to get to set and can be super difficult to pull, especially in heavy current. I'd lean toward a mushroom if you are fishing rock or gravel or a pyramid if you are fishing mud or using it as a drift anchor.

Agreed!

You should attach your anchor line/chain to the bottom of the anchor, and use some form of "breakaway" attachment such as a zip tie connecting the chain to the top end of the anchor arm.  I use a small zip tie, but remember to keep a spare handy on the kayak.

You should attach your anchor line/chain to the bottom of the anchor, and use some form of "breakaway" attachment such as a zip tie connecting the chain to the top end of the anchor arm.  I use a small zip tie, but remember to keep a spare handy on the kayak.

Better yet, so your spare cable ties will always be readily available if you need them, attach them to the top of your anchor with a bigger loop than you will use to attach the chain.  If you need to use one of the spare cable ties, cut it next to the ratchet, pull out the stub, and then use it to re-attach the chain to the top of the anchor.

Cable ties can be surprisingly hard to break, particularly from a floating kayak.  After you choose one, hook your anchor on something and try to break the cable tie by pulling on your anchor line.  If you can't break it, change to a smaller size cable tie, or to a loop of monofilament.

Here's what the chain and breakaway arrangement Dark Tuna was talking about looks like.  Be sure to leave enough slack in the chain between the breakaway loop and the bottom of your anchor so when you pull on your anchor line the tension goes to the breakaway loop, not the bottom of your anchor.

You should attach your anchor line/chain to the bottom of the anchor, and use some form of "breakaway" attachment such as a zip tie connecting the chain to the top end of the anchor arm.  I use a small zip tie, but remember to keep a spare handy on the kayak.

Better yet, so your spare cable ties will always be readily available if you need them, attach them to the top of your anchor with a bigger loop than you will use to attach the chain.  If you need to use one of the spare cable ties, cut it next to the ratchet, pull out the stub, and then use it to re-attach the chain to the top of the anchor.

Cable ties can be surprisingly hard to break, particularly from a floating kayak.  After you choose one, hook your anchor on something and try to break the cable tie by pulling on your anchor line.  If you can't break it, change to a smaller size cable tie, or to a loop of monofilament.

Here's what the chain and breakaway arrangement Dark Tuna was talking about looks like.  Be sure to leave enough slack in the chain between the breakaway loop and the bottom of your anchor so when you pull on your anchor line the tension goes to the breakaway loop, not the bottom of your anchor.

+1  -- especially on the "hard to break"...  My first trial run at building my anchor setup copying this, I used a small zip tie and then tried to break it free in my yard.  Couldn't get the the zip tie to break.  Went to a loop of 30-lb mono, that I could break but it took a damn hard pull.  Tried again with 20-lb mono instead, went with that... 

On to the water - the anchor worked fine and held well out in Commencement Bay / Puyallup River mouth and the tidal currents there (muddy/sandy bottom).  Over in another part of the waterfront, I got the grapnel well & truly stuck in rocks.   I was able to pull the line and pop the upper loop and retrieve the anchor, but even with 20-lb line it felt like I was going to dump the boat and go swimming...  So I'd say make sure you test your release, preferably in the boat!

Jim

Here's what the chain and breakaway arrangement Dark Tuna was talking about looks like.  Be sure to leave enough slack in the chain between the breakaway loop and the bottom of your anchor so when you pull on your anchor line the tension goes to the breakaway loop, not the bottom of your anchor.

Is the "breakaway" connected to the anchor in two locations?  The top ziptie is easily seen in the photo, but I can't tell if the chain is also zipped to the bottom of the claw.  Just wondering if you end up losing your anchor completely if the top ziptie is broken, or if you get another chance on the bottom breakaway??

Thanks for the posts and the comments.

Here's what the chain and breakaway arrangement Dark Tuna was talking about looks like.  Be sure to leave enough slack in the chain between the breakaway loop and the bottom of your anchor so when you pull on your anchor line the tension goes to the breakaway loop, not the bottom of your anchor.

Is the "breakaway" connected to the anchor in two locations?  The top ziptie is easily seen in the photo, but I can't tell if the chain is also zipped to the bottom of the claw.  Just wondering if you end up losing your anchor completely if the top ziptie is broken, or if you get another chance on the bottom breakaway??

The chain is attached to the bottom of the anchor with a quicklink, which is just barely visible in the picture shown above.  The idea is that if the anchor gets stuck on something, you pull on the anchor line until the cable tie or other breakaway loop breaks, after which the chain is pulling on the opposite end of the anchor, which usually lets the anchor slip off whatever it's hooked on.

If the anchor stays hooked, you'd have to cut your anchor line.  However, you could certainly attach the chain to the bottom of the anchor with a second cable tie or other breakaway loop, possibly slightly stronger than the first, so if the anchor stays hooked, you could break the second breakaway, and might at least be able to retrieve your anchor line and the chain.  I've never done that, but it should work.