protrolls

i know most of the power boat community uses the 11" protrolls. has anyone here used the smaller  8" and even 4" along with the superbaits for salmon?

The kick is what drives the protroll bite.  If you put a heavy or high drag bait on too small of flasher it can kill the action.

I use the 11" 90% of the time.  Using Green and Blue sized herring,  large spinners, original superbaits and the large cut plug SBs.  Deadly.

I have fished the 8" with Red and Orange herring, small spinners, small cut plug SBs and small blade prawn spinners.

I've tried the 4" for kokes and trout but have more success witn dodgers at this size.

Bottom line, I haven't ever felt the 8" would out perform the 11" so I use the 11" most of the time.  On some occasions when using light gear I want to feel less drag on I'll fish the 8".

thanks snopro

The kick is what drives the protroll bite.  If you put a heavy or high drag bait on too small of flasher it can kill the action.

I use the 11" 90% of the time.  Using Green and Blue sized herring,  large spinners, original superbaits and the large cut plug SBs.  Deadly.

I have fished the 8" with Red and Orange herring, small spinners, small cut plug SBs and small blade prawn spinners.

I've tried the 4" for kokes and trout but have more success witn dodgers at this size.

Bottom line, I haven't ever felt the 8" would out perform the 11" so I use the 11" most of the time.  On some occasions when using light gear I want to feel less drag on I'll fish the 8".

Good info snopro. I've been trying to hook some Lake Coeur d' Alene Chinook with no success. Do you have any advise for that fishery and have you tried the 8" Protrolls with the kicker fin and what is your opinion of those?

I only use the prochip model with the agitator fin.  Don't make the rookie mistake of buying the hotchip model (no fin).

I've never fished CDA, but if the Chinook there behave like big lake macks, use a 11" flasher +36" leader+ blue label herring and you should be in business.  Watch the sonar and run your downrigger on the marks. 

One last tip for the prochips, you don't need to troll them fast.  They will kick at 1.5mph.  Sometimes going slow works best so experiment with speed.

I only use the prochip model with the agitator fin.  Don't make the rookie mistake of buying the hotchip model (no fin).

I've never fished CDA, but if the Chinook there behave like big lake macks, use a 11" flasher +36" leader+ blue label herring and you should be in business.  Watch the sonar and run your downrigger on the marks. 

One last tip for the prochips, you don't need to troll them fast.  They will kick at 1.5mph.  Sometimes going slow works best so experiment with speed.

Thanks for the tips, I'll use your advise with great anticipation. Any advise for no downrigger? The Chinook there get fairly deep at times. Also would you focus under the schools of kokes? Thanks snopro.

I have 0 experience with LL chinook, so keep that in mind. 

I would look for Kokes and try to get my gear working at the bottom of the school.  I think you will have trouble doing that with flashers and no downrigger.

I'd recommend vertical jigging or mooching a herring instead.  It would be easier to achieve your desired depth and less weight during the fight.  This works well if you are marking salmon but what little I know about the fishery leads me to belive they are very scattered.  Unfortunately bringing us back to using a downrigger and trolling many miles.

You can put together a downrigger set up fairly cheaply and for where you live it would be a great tool to have.  I'd love to see you catching 20lb Gerrards at PO.

Thanks for the info Sno. I have my Cannon installed now. Just waiting for the weather to lighten up so I can try for those 20lb Gerrards at PO.