Transducer Installation?

Anyone out there with recommendations for fish finder transducer installation?

I just got a Malibu X-Factor and I have an Eagle 320 fishfinder.  My plan is to sandpaper the inside of my hull and the bottom of the transducer and use 2-part epoxy to glue the transducer to the inside of the hull.

Before I do it I am asking the question if this will work, or if there is a better way?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Mike

There are other methods and materials that are much more likely to meet your needs. First, I wouldn't even bother with trying to use epoxy; it won't bond with the polyethylene of your 'yak. I speak from years of experience, using epoxy in boat construction. Lots of other people have tried it, and had it fail.

I highly recommend searching some of the bigger yakfishing boards. I really like NCKA's. Lot's of proficient people.

The transducer mounting method that sounds most promising, to me, is to goop down a section of poll noodle that has the center carved out so that it (tightly) holds the transducer. A little water put into the hole, before the 'ducer, will ensure a clean shot through the hull.

The other method, for a permanent mount, is to just goop the 'ducer to the hull. Cleaning the hull with some isopropel alcohol and sanding would be a good prep. Try to avoid anything that will create bubbles between the transducer and the hull bottom. Too many bubbles will decrease the abilities of the FF.

The goop is Marine Goop, related I believe, to Shoe Goo. Any of the Goops you find at the hardware will probably work. I don't think there's any big chemical difference among them.

http://www.kayaksportfishing.com/equipment/submissions/ted/fishfinder/fishfinder.htm



Pisco Sicko,

Thanks for the Marine Goop recommendation.  I did a Google Search for "Marine Goop" and transducer and found exactly what I needed.

Mike

FishHunt,

I don't think I'd use the epoxy.  I'm not sure if it's going to transfer those sound waves to the water like you're wanting.  If you check out some of the other kayak fishing boards I think you'll find that other people are using either goop or even simple marine silicone.  Besides, if that particular transducer ever craps out on you, like corrosion at the terminals maybe, then you'll really wish you didn't go with such a pemanent installation.

I found a solution that I really like over on the NorCal board and it goes kinda like this:
Find a piece of closed cell foam, like a pool noodle (I used a $10 3/8" sleeping pad from REI and marine silicone from West Marine myself, I used two layers glued together like a layer cake) and cut it to a reasonable over-sized section.  Then cut out a section from the center that's just smaller than your transducer so it'll be a tight fit when you go to push it in place.  Silcone the foam to your yak so it won't leak water.  Once that's good and set (probably a full day) you can fill that opening with water and then squeaze your transducer down into the water.  I'd suggest that when you cut the opening, that you make it smaller at the top than the bottom so it wants to hold your transducer down instead of wanting to squeaze it back out.

Like I said, this is the approach that I've used and I'm having pretty good luck with it so far this year.  Other people who've tried it seem to be making out pretty well too.  Good luck with your mount however you go at it.

Fishin-T

Mike,

Oh, yeah…  My last mount was supplied to me by the people that sold me the kayak (kayakfishingstuff.com).  It was also a piece of closed cell foam, similar to what I’ve described already, and it was also intended to be used as a re-usable mount.  But instead of water, the “well” was filled with petroleum jelly which transferred the sound waves just fine so long as it didn’t have too many air bubbles in it.  Holy Cow!  What a mess that was!  I was always getting the excess jelly on anything that I would store inside the hull.

Like I’ve described above, if you cut your hole to the right shape, the transducer is inclined to pull right down to the hull instead of sliding back out of the well.  When I first push it into place for a days outing it will of course squirt out excess water, but then it won’t leak after it’s in place provided that the cut-out is shaped right as well as small enough.  If it doesn’t initially squirt that excess water, then you probably aren’t starting with enough water in the first place and you’ll probably have air bubbles rolling around in your temporary installation, and even then it probably won’t matter any way cause the air will be on the top side of your transducer.

Fishin-T

Thanks Fishin-T!

Maybe I'll try the silicone/foam/water method first, before I attempt a more permanent method.

Mike

FHM,
You could go one simpler and try no glue at all. I used a short length of oversized pool noodle, carved a divot in the end to make the transducer fit flush, led the wire up through the noodle and shoved it between the bottom of the seat and the hull with the transducer facing down. Works GREAT. No goop, just the pressure from the foam. Totally removable (haven't quite figured out why I'd want to remove it though). A dab of vasaline on the face of the transducer might be a good idea but mine is working wonderfully without it (first time I could watch my bait go up and down on my ff). Wish I could claim that idea, but I got it from the KFS board.

And if you don't like it, you can always glue it down. I like Goop. Just let it cure completely or the transducer will make bubbles in it and wreck you resolution.

FHM
I have used both 2 part epoxy and goop and they both work well. The 2 part epoxy I used on my pro xplorer (malibu) and the marine goop I used on one of my X-factors. They all work good. The key is a roughened surface and NO bubbles in the mix. They are perm and semiperm the epoxy would take a lot of effort to get off, the goop would take some effort but not as much.
RAM mounts are a good mount for ff screens and such. I got some on line and they were cheaper then the dealer, even with shipping.
Good luck.
Matt

Tupper,

You say, "Totally removable (haven't quite figured out why I'd want to remove it though)."   I can think of the perfect time that you'd want a removable transducer... When ever you need to either borrow or rent someone elses yak, like if you took a trip to Alaska or Baja.  I think I can picture your appoach and I'll be inclined to use it myself any time I'm in a situation where I'm using someone elses yak.  Good one FFTW.

Fishin-T

Fishin T said: "When ever you need to either borrow or rent someone elses yak, like if you took a trip to Alaska or Baja."

But thats what the portable and the smartcast are for!


Wali,
(formerly known as "the cheapest man alive" now stuck with "Accumulator of waaay tooo much fishin stuff")

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!

I'm still in the experimental stage right now trying to figure the layout on the boat.  I plan on using a Scotty rod holder with the 6-7" extension and a RAM mount for the fishfinder.  Havent decided if the rod holder needs to be in center infront of my feet and the fishfinder between my legs or vice-versa (long handled rods may be a problem).  I am also thinking about installing a scotty laketroller downrigger just behind my seat on the left side (not sure how gymnastic it would be).

Mike

Plan carefully where you want your fitting (rod holder, cleats, fish finder,,,). It’s really best to get in the boat in the water and plan your spots. Make sure the fitting will be accessible, doesn't get in the way of your stroke, and doesn't get in your way when you are fishing in positions other than in the seat (like side saddle, or scooting up to the front or rear hatch). Then mark the spot with a black marker. The idea is to get it right the first time as it’s a bit of PITA to weld up holes (ask me how I know)  . You can do it on the ground, but its not as good.

For rod holders, put a rod in the holder and see where the rod butt is going and how it affects your stroke at full extents and different seating positions (including entry and exiting the boat). You pretty much have to do this on the ground.
 I generally like mine pointed a bit forward and out. That position fishes well, trolls well, is in easy reach, and is out of my paddle stroke.

That rod extension was crucial for my boat (Hobie Adventure) as my knee would hit the rod butt when I pedaled.

I made a downrigger and right now that conveniently goes though a big scupper hole between my legs. But I plan to put it in a second rod holder on the other side of the boat that's currently occupied by the FF. I think I want to keep it in front for easy access and because I can only fish one rod at time anyway.

I am also thinking about installing a scotty laketroller downrigger just behind my seat on the left side (not sure how gymnastic it would be).

Mike

I'd be real careful with this position.  This is probably the most unstable position in a yak.  This is THE position for flipping a yak.

I personally don't like to set up anything between my legs.  I position everything as far forward as possible.

FFTW ... nice advice!

-Allen

Thanks again for the additional advice!  Rod holders, etc were pretty easy to figure out on my sit-inside kayak since my legs were underneath out of the way.  I'm a little leary about putting too much between the legs which could interfere with efficient paddling or kayak entry/exit.  I'll be sure to think this over thoroughly before I start drilling.

Ive spent about 8 hours in the seat so far and am starting to get a good feeling about how things are going to work.  The existing front two countersunk rodholders work ok but the angle is not perfect. 

Mike

Here's how I installed the fishfinder on my kayak. It's been in use a couple years, including plenty of surf launches and it's still hanging in there.