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Topic: Why Latex for gaskets on drywear?  (Read 5993 times)

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jself

  • Guest
I'm 99% sure there was a how to in Sea Kayaker Magazine the last year or so to replace latex with neoprene. Seems like it would be "relatively" easy. I'd look there.


  • I fish out of a SIK
  • blah...
  • Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
  • Date Registered: Jun 2008
  • Posts: 366
Found this.... Not sure it pertains to replacing a latex gasket with a neoprene though...

Drysuit Gasket Repair

Keep your drysuit or dry top watertight by replacing torn, deteriorated, or stretched-out neck, wrist, and ankle gaskets.
Required Equipment

    * Repair kit that includes replacement latex gasket(s), sandpaper, Aquaseal® glue, and 303™ Protectant.
    * Acetone or denatured alcohol.
    * Wax paper.
    * Masking tape.
    * Pot or coffee can that fits snugly inside the gasket.
    * Knife, razor blade, or scissors.
    * Spoon.

   1. Clean the new gasket with acetone or denatured alcohol.
   2. Inspect the old gasket.
          * If the old gasket is still securely bonded to the drysuit fabric, use scissors to cut it away along the edge of the drysuit fabric (visible on the inside of the gasket). Leave a border on the old gasket to glue the new gasket one to.
          * If the old gasket is not securely bonded to the drysuit or if it is cracking or crumbling, remove it completely. Use a knife or razor blade to cut and scrape away all the latex.
   3. With sandpaper, roughen the surface of the old gasket, or the surface of the drysuit fabric. Also roughen the inside of the new gasket, about an inch wide, where it will overlap the material.
   4. Wrap the pot or coffee can with wax paper to keep glue from sticking to it. Slip the form inside the opening where you are replacing the gasket.
   5. Stretch the new gasket onto the pot so that it overlaps the material by about an inch.
   6. Roll the new gasket back onto itself to expose the sanded surface. You should now have two sanded surfaces exposed.
   7. Apply a thin, even layer of Aquaseal glue to both sanded surfaces. Wait a couple of moments for the Aquaseal to become tacky, then gently roll the new gasket back down onto the material. With the back of a spoon or your thumb, work any air pockets out to the edges.
   8. Wrap the glued joint with wax paper and hold it in place by wrapping it with masking tape.
   9. Allow the new gasket to cure in a warm place for 12 to 24 hours.

Stretch a Tight Gasket

If your new gasket is a little too tight, insert a glass jar or other round form slightly larger than the circumference of your neck, wrist or ankle into the seal and leave it overnight.

Stretching gaskets is not a reversible process, so make an educated decision and be conservative. Do not cut a gasket to enlarge it. Cutting makes a less watertight seal, and uneven cutting can cause tearing.

http://www.mec.ca/Main/content_text.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302881800&CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673862621

« Last Edit: July 23, 2009, 10:00:17 AM by please_send_rescue »


flytyer_396

  • Perch
  • ***
  • Location: Everett
  • Date Registered: May 2008
  • Posts: 67
take it from me. sunscreen will kill a latex gaskett in a matter of days. mine are all gooey and sticky at the moment.

I prefer "seal saver" over 303. it's a latex lube and UV protector. 303 works good too, but seal saver is specific to latex.

Where do you find Seal Saver?  I've never seen or heard of it.  Does it help putting on and taking of your dry wear?

Thanks.


polepole

  • Administrator
  • Sturgeon
  • *****
  • NorthWest Kayak Anglers
  • Location: San Jose, CA :(
  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
  • Posts: 10099
... for increased sensitivity ....


Madoc

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • Kayak.Yng
  • Location: Portland
  • Date Registered: May 2009
  • Posts: 411
... for increased sensitivity ....


But nitrile transmits heat better, and therefore increases sensitivity.


 

anything