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Topic: Halibut or ling fishing in the sound?  (Read 19752 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

  • Date Registered: Nov 2009
  • Posts: 133
Thanks for all the advice. I've been reading some of the old threads on the type of clothing to wear.  I've only fished the sound two or three times, always off Whidbey Island on nice summer days.

If I want to get more serious about fishing the sound from May-October, what advice would you give on outerwear?  Wetsuit vs. breathable waders and a paddling jacket?

I already have breathable waders for river fishing. I have a variety of mountaineering, waterproof shell jackets, but no specific paddling jacket. What advantages do those have? Tighter around the cuffs?  Seems like I can cinch my other ones down pretty well...not rejecting advice here, just curious on the benefit given the other gear I have sitting around.

Are the breathable waders a safe, reasonable option for most sound fishing May-Oct?  Or would I be advised to get a wetsuit?  I don't see myself springing for a dry suit anytime soon...

Thanks.


Pisco Sicko

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA
  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
  • Posts: 1553
I use waders and a drytop. They're made to seal pretty well against bottoms, with a big neoprene band. Mine also has latex seals at the wrist and neck. A semi-dry top might work. They usually have a neoprene neck seal and will allow more water in. I don't any other kind of top is going to really keep you very dry if you in the drink for any length of time, especially if you're thrashing around trying to get back to/on your boat.

I've seen others use wetsuit with a top, and when it was cold and/or windy, they looked like they were freezing. (Wind pants over the top might help.)


  • Date Registered: Nov 2009
  • Posts: 133
Thanks. That makes sense. And since I have breathable waders already, sounds like adding a dry top is the way to go.  Any type to look for?

Dry top is a category, right? Meaning it seals both below and at the neck?

Thanks,
John


KillFish

  • Perch
  • ***
  • Location: Mill Creek
  • Date Registered: Jan 2011
  • Posts: 70
Also researching how to land a halibut, found this video.  :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:


demonick

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Domenick Venezia, Author
  • Date Registered: Apr 2009
  • Posts: 2835
The biggest threat to your survival while fishing the sound is the water temperature.  It is cold year round, really cold.  Dress for immersion.  You will eventually fall out of your kayak.  I fell out on my third trip out.  If the gasp reflex doesn't get you immediately, then a naked guy will slip under for good within 30 minutes, probably much less.  Eventually, biophysics and biochemistry catches up with you and no matter how much you want your limbs to work they don't, by the laws of physics they can't, so you slip below the surface and drown while very conscious. 

I fish mostly alone, and I have always been terrified of drowning.  I can hardly imagine a worse way to go.  All year I wear a Kokatat T3 Super Nova Angler semi-dry suit with either a full bunny suit (or wicking polypro then REI heavy-weight polypro fleece top and bottom), OR in the winter, I wear BOTH.  The IR EnviroSkin Union Suit under the REI fleece.  Throw on a pair or two of heavy Smart Wool socks, booties, Glacier gloves, and a Glacier full dome neoprene hoodie, and I'm good to go.  I hate being cold, and over my life I've spent a lot of time in the water in this area and know that it kills people every year.   Lakes, rivers, and the salt all claim victims every year.  After the yak itself, clothing is the largest expense I have for kayak fishing.

Whatever clothing you decide to wear, you must test it by bailing off your kayak in the cold water you will fish and learn to reenter your boat.  Do this close to shore and do it repeatedly, then at least every year a few times.  Also walk into the water in your protective clothing and float around for 15 or 20 minutes.  The longer the better.  This may change your priorities.
demonick
Author, Linc Malloy Legacies -- Action/Adventure/Thrillers
2021 Chanticleer Finalist - Global Thriller Series & High Stakes Fiction
Rip City Legacy, Book 6 latest release!
DomenickVenezia.com


Pisco Sicko

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA
  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
  • Posts: 1553
Drytop is a category. You can find breathable and non-breathable, depending on your budget. Breathable will be more comfortable when the air temperatures are warmer.

Demonick has some excellent advice, especially the practice of re-entering the yak. It will also tell you whether your gear strategy is sufficient.

Bringing a live 145# 'but into a boat is plain old crazy!! 40 pounds, or so, is my limit. (That's the size of the halibut in my avatar.) Even that was nerve racking. I was afraid it would blow my poor little stitch-and-glue rowboat apart, as it bounced around the interior. :o :o :o


polepole

  • Administrator
  • Sturgeon
  • *****
  • NorthWest Kayak Anglers
  • Location: San Jose, CA :(
  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
  • Posts: 10099
I've seen others use wetsuit with a top, and when it was cold and/or windy, they looked like they were freezing. (Wind pants over the top might help.)

Yeah, "that guy" was cold, wasn't he?  Good to see you hanging out here again Bill.  Finally crawl out of hibernation?   ;)

-Allen


kallitype

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Vashon Island kayaker
  • Location: Vashon Island, WA
  • Date Registered: Jun 2008
  • Posts: 1673
Great advice from Demonick!   I had the unfortunate chance to see my fishing buddy in the drink at Point no Point on Jan 31, he spent nearly 1/2 hour in the water and it took him 2 days to get warmed up.
see this for some thoughts on what doesn't work  for immersion safety:

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,5770.msg59795.html#msg59795

 
Never underestimate the ability of our policymakers to fail to devise and implement intelligent policy


kallitype

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Vashon Island kayaker
  • Location: Vashon Island, WA
  • Date Registered: Jun 2008
  • Posts: 1673
from the Hobie forum:



Make sure you have a buddy and your PFD on before attempting any practise. Start practice in shallow and calm water to start with. No good going out deep if your buddy cannot help and you cannot get back on. Not only yourself but both together, one assisting the other then reverse the rolls after a brief rest. As your technique progresses, so can the depth and the conditions you practice in.
Practice draining techniques, you may have an SOT but it still helps to know if you take on water or find someone with an SIK in trouble. You can do this by forming a T shape, run the bow of their kayak, up over your kayak at your lap, so you can then lift it, break the seal, and drain some of the water out. Once you turn the kayak back up the correct way, they can then mount the kayak from the stern, shimmy forward to the seat while you help stabilise the kayak, or, once drained, then move side on to the kayak and brace/stabilise as they remount from the side. Often if someone cannot get on from the side, they can get back on from the bow or stern. The bow or stern can be pulled down below the water line, making it easier to get on top of the kayak.

If you have a fishing kayak with rod holders etc, practice side entry. With rod holders, rods, nets etc poking up, bow or stern entry may be very difficult, find easy ways to re-mount from the side. A stirrup or paddle float may even be necessary, though extreme caution should be given to stirrups as they may create a tangle point, making conditions even worse. When re-mounting a kayak, hold on to the kayak and try to float your legs up to the surface, don't have them down deep under you. Then with a combination, strong pull and kick, pull your torso up onto the kayak until your bottom is inline with the seat. Then roll over placing your bottom in the seat while still trying to keep the centre of gravity low and balanced before sitting up fully.

Practice if approaching someone already in the water, keeping their kayak between you and them so it is harder for them to pull you over if panicked, there is also less risk of injury from being struck or sandwiched by the kayaks in rough conditions. Stabilise their kayak from the opposite side by laying your paddle across both kayaks and then laying (while still seated) across both kayaks. With a firm grip (not as easy on an SOT), get your mate to try and pull you over as if panicked.

Don't just practice getting on, also learn how to right the kayak, if you can get some old out of service rods/reels etc, replace your good gear and make it as realistic as possible every once in a while.

Practice taking control of the scenario if you are the one on the assisting kayak, be the one in charge and control. Communicate instructions clearly so you both understand what's going on. It is best to begin this on the approach, not after you get there and things are already in a state of un-control.

Have a good look at your PFD's etc, do you have a knife/line cutter/scissors in case you become tangled in fishing line or leashes. Do you have a mirror, whistle or VHF to get some ones attention if separated from the kayak. People venturing more than 1km from shore, should also carry minimum a Personal Location Beacon on their PFD.

You can practice poor rescues, a million times and possibly perish, or, you can practise quality rescue techniques frequently and save life's.

Some good links and quality reading;
http://www.canoe.org.au/site/canoeing/ac/downloads/Education/ACAS/Resources/Techniques/Perform%20Deep%20water%20Rescues.pdf
One of my favourite's;
http://www.useakayak.org/recoveries_rescues/panic_approach.html
Some good Video's, the first one's are SIK's but the techniques are good to watch;
http://www.broadbandsports.com/node/27339&gvsm=1
Never underestimate the ability of our policymakers to fail to devise and implement intelligent policy