Look out EE’s, you’re next....

Most of my past questions (pleads for help) have been more mechanical in nature, but I’m hoping to receive my fish finder by this weekend and will have some questions for the Electrical Engineer types as well.

I bought an Ocean Kayak Trident T-11 as one of the selling points was/is the ability to mount the transducer in a scupper designed for it. I haven’t seen my transducer yet , but I’m already questioning the ease of installation. I assumed it was not going to require epoxy, but so far I don’t see how it couldn’t. Has anyone done this with an Ocean Kayak yet?

Next, and this is where the EE’s get to shine, I ordered some battery holders as I want to run the Fish Finder on Alkaline or rechargeable AA batteries, rather than a motorcycle battery. The holders I ordered are designed for ten (10) AA’s as I was hoping to get 15vdc with the alkaline, when initially installed and maybe around 12+ to13vdc with the rechargeable. The plan is to keep the battery packs in a water proof container (below deck) and I haven’t decided if I’ll hardwire or run a 12vdc female outlet, like a cigarette lighter jack or what. I’d also like to fuse it, keeping the fuse inside the box with the batteries but have no idea what size fuse to even consider. Maybe it'll arrive fused and save me some drama (yeah, sure.)

Anything I haven’t mentioned and your thinking would be cool is welcome. Also, constructive criticism in reference to what I have mentioned, as I really haven’t a frickin’ clue and am just winging it with help from you guys. I also work much better from included pictures than words or text alone. Thanks for any contributions…Dave

I know there are some older threads that deal in depth with it probably in cuttin & drillin, I think there was one this year.  Gonna have to do it too as I just ordered one.

I did the same thing, but I only have the 8 battery holder.  I used a tupperware type container, and both my Eagle/Lowrance brand fishfinders came fused.  The fuse is inside the tupperware with the batteries.  I can get about 6-8 hours out of my 8 battery pack with 2500 maH rechargeables.  I use a simple flat plug  sort of like a trailer plug.  I drilled a very small hole in the lid to pass the wire through.  Then, I painted the hole and wires (where they pass through) liberally with liquid electrical tape to water proof it.  For more protection, I can place the pack into a dry bag if I feel the need.

I sort of followed this procedure from page three of the home page: http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/page,11.html

*disclaimer:  I am not an engineer of any kind.  Sorry.

If you're using 10 AA cells for your sounder, you should use NiMH no question.  Your sounder, whether it is a relatively high or low drain sounder, will probably drain your AA cell battery pack within 4 outings tops.  That would be a lot of money spent on replacing alkalines.  As I mentioned in a previous discussion, alkalines offer around 1.5 V when they're fully charged and around 1.1 to 1.3 while under load.  NiMH cells are rated at 1.2 V, but are around 1.4 V fully charged and should not be depleted more than 1 V.  Essentially, think of them as offering the same voltage, they just have a different behavior as they are being depleted.  NiMH are good for relatively high drain devices, like electronics.  Alkalines are better for low drain, intermittent use applications.  So go with NiMH and buy the highest milliamp hour value you can find but do not let the voltage of your battery pack drop below 10 V if you're using 10 cells or else you risk permanently damaging your batteries. 

Your sounder should come with a water-proof fuse holder.  Wire it into the positive lead(red wire) between the battery and the sounder.

Gonna have to do it too as I just ordered one.

I think I remember reading you had gotten a Cuda 350, maybe? I had wanted to have GPS included too, but already own two hand held Garmins and figured the $100 savings looked nice. Of course, the first time I'm sitting in the fog lost and twittling my thumbs, I might feel differently. I ended up getting the Humminbird Piranha 170 because its simple to use and Humminbird is owned by the same people (Johnson) that own Ocean Kayak. The logic being, maybe the install would be cleaner.

I sort of followed this procedure from page three of the home page: http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/page,11.html

*disclaimer:  I am not an engineer of any kind.  Sorry.

Thanks for the link Craig. That's actually a very close set up to what I am anticipating using. Coincidentally, the author of the thread (the stud we all know as coosbayyaker) said he wasn't able to find ten cell holders. I hadn't tried anywhere local and actually ordered six from Hong Kong, along with the 9v clips to match each one. As soon as I saw the container in the first picture, the one he said to throw away, I laughed. I've been hosed by those pieces of crap more than once, shaking my top Ramen dinner. I like the alternates he went with and three sizes to the set is nice. I think I recall just seeing those at Amazon or that huge auction site and they are still very reasonable. Once all the stuff lands and I get it all together, I'll post a picture or two. I'd also like to hear and see some more ideas from all that care to jump in and show some talent.

What, its not like I actually singled out rawkfish, INSAYN, ZEE, demonic or anyone by name?

EE's work ok, but sooner or later one of those many contact points WILL let you down, especially if you fish the salt much.  I used them for the first year I yak fished but once I went to a sealed battery with a float charger I never looked back and its way less hassle to recharge, just plug and play.  It only takes one important trip when the depthfinder is critical to a successful day on the water to make the switch from EE's to a sealed battery.   

I use 2 prong trailer connecters that can be found at Coastal Farm or Wilco for all battery to equipment connections. These plus a generous dab of Dialetric grease on the connection points and your good to go.   

Not sure on the brand of your FF/GPS/Transducer, but since Humminbird and OK are both owned by Johnson Outdoors, Humminbird has a transducer which fits the OK scupper.  At least it fits the T13 scupper.

OK transducer scupper mount:
http://www.demonick.com/kayak/FF.GPS/Transducer.html

The only change I would make in the mounting is to cut a wedge out of the plastic washer.  Maybe 30 degrees to open up the scupper a bit.

If you pop up to just the /kayak/ level and check the links at the bottom of the page, there is more stuff for rigging a T13 which you may find useful.

Thanks demonic. I ended up ordering (and received today) a Humminbird 170 as it seemed pretty straight forward and reasonably priced. Also ordered it because of Humminbird falling under the Johnson side of the house and hoping it would be a good match. I'm going to be contacting Johson to swap out the transducer as the one I received and the one you have pictured are different. Also, you mentioned a link toward the bottom of the page to look at other T-13 ideas, but no link was available on the pages I viewed. If you don't mind, feel free to send me any links you've got and thanks again.

EE's work ok, but sooner or later one of those many contact points WILL let you down, especially if you fish the salt much.  I used them for the first year I yak fished but once I went to a sealed battery with a float charger I never looked back and its way less hassle to recharge, just plug and play.  It only takes one important trip when the depthfinder is critical to a successful day on the water to make the switch from EE's to a sealed battery.   

I use 2 prong trailer connecters that can be found at Coastal Farm or Wilco for all battery to equipment connections. These plus a generous dab of Dialetric grease on the connection points and your good to go.

Hey pelagic...Not certain what you're referring to when you mentioned EE's work okay. I actually chose that as a title, hoping to lure in some advice from the EE (Electrical Engineers) types that are here on the forum. The reason I'm wanting to go with either rechargable batteries or Alkaline AA's is because I can carry several with me if I'm out for a weekend or longer. Also, if I run out, I can stop and get more. I chose that direction as the sealed battery/motorcycle type battery would have to be charged once its down and I can't always rely on electricity being available. Of course, and I just thought of this, I could run a sealed battery until its exausted and then if needed, switch to AA's...hmmmm? Thanks for the input.

EE's work ok, but sooner or later one of those many contact points WILL let you down, especially if you fish the salt much.  I used them for the first year I yak fished but once I went to a sealed battery with a float charger I never looked back and its way less hassle to recharge, just plug and play.  It only takes one important trip when the depthfinder is critical to a successful day on the water to make the switch from EE's to a sealed battery.   

I use 2 prong trailer connecters that can be found at Coastal Farm or Wilco for all battery to equipment connections. These plus a generous dab of Dialetric grease on the connection points and your good to go.

That's some spot on info.  I ran a 10xAA pack for 3 years.  Since I've made the switch to a sealed battery and floating charger, life has been much easier.

-Spot-

...Also, you mentioned a link toward the bottom of the page to look at other T-13 ideas, but no link was available on the pages I viewed. If you don't mind, feel free to send me any links you've got and thanks again.

Pop up in the URL (edit it :-) to the /kayak/ level or click this: http://www.demonick.com/kayak/  Links at the bottom of the page.

Be warned: my pages are BASIC, clumsy, and hand-coded.  They are intended to be my memory.  No glitz, but informative. 

EE's work ok, but sooner or later one of those many contact points WILL let you down, especially if you fish the salt much.  I used them for the first year I yak fished but once I went to a sealed battery with a float charger I never looked back and its way less hassle to recharge, just plug and play.  It only takes one important trip when the depthfinder is critical to a successful day on the water to make the switch from EE's to a sealed battery.   

I use 2 prong trailer connecters that can be found at Coastal Farm or Wilco for all battery to equipment connections. These plus a generous dab of Dialetric grease on the connection points and your good to go.

Hey pelagic...Not certain what you're referring to when you mentioned EE's work okay. I actually chose that as a title, hoping to lure in some advice from the EE (Electrical Engineers) types that are here on the forum. The reason I'm wanting to go with either rechargable batteries or Alkaline AA's is because I can carry several with me if I'm out for a weekend or longer. Also, if I run out, I can stop and get more. I chose that direction as the sealed battery/motorcycle type battery would have to be charged once its down and I can't always rely on electricity being available. Of course, and I just thought of this, I could run a sealed battery until its exausted and then if needed, switch to AA's...hmmmm? Thanks for the input.

Sorry brain fart.. I meant AA's... I have found that if I take the charger with me, short of "off the grid" camping spots, I can almost always find a spot to plug in and charge up (only takes an hour or so at the most). I also have an inverter in the car but have not tried it for recharging yet. My battery gives me 3 days of solid (8hr day) fishing, sometimes I can get a 4th but its not to be counted on.  (5 amp hour sealed)

So, in today's mail, the AA x 10 holders arrived from Hong Kong. Delivery took just over a week which was plenty of time to further contemplate, and having seen how inexpensive the sealed system is, compared to burning up a ton of AA batteries, I'm undecided (thanks a lot Spot). I'm thinking maybe the sealed set up as the primary, with the AA's as a back up for when there's no a/c to recharge the sealed and I don't want to pull off of my truck battery via an inverter that long or too many times in a weekend outing.

I'm also thinking about running a seperate system for the stern light and while I like the yak-attack idea don't want to drop ninety bucks on a light. Scotty's also got one for about 1/3 the price, but the pole is going to need extended if I go that route. Oh, decisions, decisions.