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jed with a spring Big Mack

Topic: Mirage drive repair  (Read 11072 times)

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Fungunnin

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I have 8 feet of 7075 left to play with so not in need right now.
How well do you think threads will hold if only contacting on the two outer surfaces?

Sent from my Motorola Flip phone.



INSAYN

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I would suggest nutting them in place from inside the tube.   
If that isn't possible, you may want to go back to Hobie pedals for tube. 

The 7075 aluminum isn't going to bend with any kind of tooling, as it will just tear before bending. 
That is some hard stuff.   Great for straight unwelded/uncurved uses. 

 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


Fungunnin

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The 7075 aluminum isn't going to bend with any kind of tooling, as it will just tear before bending. 
That is some hard stuff.   Great for straight unwelded/uncurved uses.
:D
It is pretty bad ass aluminum. Drilling it was really unusual. It cut unlike any aluminum I've ever worked with before.

I think with the the strength of this material it may be completely sufficient without further modification. Though I do like the idea of doing away with the adjustment hole.
Sent from my Motorola Flip phone.



INSAYN

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Wait!  I got another idea that might help here. 
Target= The long legged pedaler's.

Using the 7075, cut it and machine it for just the lower main shaft pivot. 
Skip on machining the adjustment hole.  (Hear me out on this one...)
Clamp the bar stock in place with the U bolts in the number 6 position.

Now, at the pedal end you ultimately want the pedals further forward thus the previous idea of bending a tube.
Instead you will need to create a cradle style pedal. 
Using a stainless bolt wider than your foot, secure this as if it is the actual pedal. 
Nut and washers on both sides of the bar stock. 
Now the hard part...
You will need to come up with a pedal that can connect to this long bolt, yet have your foot actually below or forward of said bolt.  (I'm still working through some basic ideas as I type).

In a nut shell, you are pushing on the pedals yet actually pulling on the bar stock. 
Does that make sense? 

I figure this will give the ultimate strength over-all using the 7075 clamped in place with the U bolt.
Also providing the much needed further forward foot position. 

Obviously its going to take a few pedal creations to get right, but it's all in principle at this point.  8)
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


INSAYN

  • ORC_Safety
  • Sturgeon
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  • Location: Forest Grove, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2008
  • Posts: 5417
Of course there is always the option of machining billet arms with the correct reach needed and just through bolting the arms in place using two of the adjustment holes. 

If ya got a friend with a milling machine, and some 3/4" material laying around.   ;D
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


polepole

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I just wanted to give Hobie Engineering a shout out as they're probably reading this thread at this very moment.   ;)  Hi guys!

-Allen


Lee

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Hopefully they read about the carts too.
 


Northwoods

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I just wanted to give Hobie Engineering a shout out as they're probably reading this thread at this very moment.   ;)  Hi guys!

-Allen

If they are, then I hope they contact me if they need any help with stress analysis.
Formerly sumpNZ
2012 ORC 5th Place