"Ace in the Hole" downrigger set-up? Anybody use it?

I have been toying with ways to free up my main line and still get down deep enough.

What I basically came up with is the "Ace in the Hole" set-up
(image courtesy of www.pugetsoundanglers.com)
where the downrigger (or in my case a second rod) would have the weight and flasher/dodger on it run off of the weight and the main line would then only run my bait/lure  and either use a downrigger release or alternately I would attach a light line to the downrigger line above the weight and dodger/flasher that would terminate with a swivel through which I would run my main line freely sliding so I could set the hook, feel strikes, play out more or less line etc...

My concern is that the line above the sliding line rig would have more drag than my lure and pull my lure up tight with the swivel defeating the purpose (so I've thought about putting a light peg in it that would pull out when a fish struck and not allow the line to be pulled from above until the peg was released).

Anybody use a similar set-up that could offer any insight/wisdom?

The pic and the pugetsoundanglers.com link is not working. Edit: found it on

http://www.pugetsoundanglers.org/fishing/Downrigger_salmontrolling.htm

I don't recall anyone on the site using a setup like that. Many folks use cannon ball type or other style lead to get down or use a downrigger. Using multiple lines next to each other sounds like a tangle waiting to happen as soon as a fish strikes. What is the advantage of a setup like this vs. regular lead or downriggers?

Edit: Got it. Interesting

Heres the pic:

The advantage would be a lighter main line with more sensitivity and control. I think with a heavy enough lead and the proper distance between the flasher/dodger and main line connection tangles would not be a concern any more so than is present with any downrigger. Around here at least where water clarity is rather high I think a flasher/dodger within 10 feet or so would be effective and would give plenty of room to for the main line to move about in concert with a dodger. It would also eliminate any issue with being able to reel up as much line as in necessary when landing the fish. Additionally a lighter line could be fished than is possible with lead and a flasher or dodger and bait on the main line. my thinking for it anyway.

Both pictures show up for me in both posts so I don't know what the issue is there.

It'll work but I haven't seen enough people run a rig like this to say that it's as good as the old standby of flasher and hootchie/herring/spoon.

I like yer thinkin! I use the ace in the hole setup on my boat and love it. I think it could work on a kayak if you used a no-drag flasher instead of a typical flasher or dodger. Downriggin on a kayak is hard enough with the weight and line drag. The extra drag of a big flasher would burn you out fast.

I am a huge fan of the konezone flashers. They have very little drag and have a really nice wobble. Perfect for running straight off a downrigger ball.

Best thing about that setup is when you hook up there is a direct connection. No weight or drag on the line at all. Sweet!

So how often do you run this compared to the flasher bait/spoon/hootchie rig Rory?

I have used this setup trout fishing in larger lakes to add some attraction for the fly im trolling using a downrigger. I've heard it referred to as a 'dummy flasher' setup.  For me, I want to fight the fish on a fly rod but fish a bit deeper and troll faster with the benefit of the flasher. I'd have a lot more experience with it if my kayak had a rudder. One paddle blade would see the water so rare, it'd get a chance to get dry between dips.

So how often do you run this compared to the flasher bait/spoon/hootchie rig Rory?

I'd say maybe 25% of the time.  I'd only run herring because of the larger profile - necessary because it's further away from the flasher.

Thanks for the responses. I'll have to give it a go in various forms and see how it pans out.