lowrance elite 5 hdi

 i have been trying to figure out what ff i want to buy, i have searched many posts here, read reviews, played with the display models at stores, cross checked, double checked, and damn it im still confused, i have never used one before and am for lack of a better term, ''tech stupid''
i thought that i had decided on a hook 5 combo for $299, than just came across a elite 5 hdi ff/chatr plotter for $270.
anyone here tell me if this is a good deal? is the hdi better than the hook?
the headach's this is givin me now i can only imagine what its goin to be like trying to figure out how to use it, might just be an expensive decoration on my yak!

ooh and i forgot to mention the $20 rebait..

 Hi danr, I think the new Hook series has chirp technology which is a little better than the hdi. I have an elite 4 with chirp, and love the clear marks. I can even see my jig on the bottom when I'm Ling fishing! Hope this helps.
Kevin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an Elite 4 CHIRP and had an Elite 4 HDI,  When I sent the HDI unit in for repair, Lowrance replaced it with a HOOK 5.

I don't see any difference in performance between the Elite CHIRP and the HOOK, and the only difference I see is the larger screen on the HOOK 5.

The Elite series HDI models seem to fail a lot - lots of comments about that in the NCKA forum, and mine failed the third time I used it.

Google CHIRP technology and you'll get all the information you might need and a lot you don't need.  CHIRP is better in many situations, in others it makes no noticeable difference.

Whichever you get, this can help you get started.  I didn't write this, and don't remember where I found it, but it gave me an excellent starting point for the settings and as I used the finders more, I tweaked them:

2D:  High Chirp = 200kHz, Mid Chirp = 83 kHz, Low Chirp = 50kHz.  I run in HIGH CHIRP.

DSI - 800kHz offers best resolution while 455 has better depth penetration. I always just use 800kHz for all the waters I am in.

SONAR SETTINGS: GENERAL USE/FRESHWATER/SALTWATER/TROLLING/ DEEP WATER/SHALLOW WATER is critical.  I use SHALLOW water when I am in 60 ft. or less.  I will switch to FRESHWATER for anything deeper than that.  The manual clearly states: "Use FRESHWATER mode when fishing in less than 100 feet of water; otherwise your unit may not track bottom properly"

Leave Sensitivity in AUTO until you get a good handle on EVERYTHING else.  Then you can fine tune with this setting once you become a learned pro.
*NOTE: you can even make small adjustments (+/- 40%) to the sensitivity with AUTO turned ON!

I find PING SPEED in NORMAL is best.

RANGE: Auto

NOISE REJECTION: Off. We have no other devises or engines on our kayaks that need filtering.

SURFACE CLARITY - I will go back and forth on this one depending on water conditions. Murky- set to LOW. Clear water set to HIGH for more sensitivity. (This was backwards in my mind before I learned a thing or two)

COLOR LINE: leave this at the default 76%.


They don't turn into paperweights...   

  At 270,, make sure that includes the transducer.       

I have an Elite 4 CHIRP and had an Elite 4 HDI,  When I sent the HDI unit in for repair, Lowrance replaced it with a HOOK 5.

I don't see any difference in performance between the Elite CHIRP and the HOOK, and the only difference I see is the larger screen on the HOOK 5.

The Elite series HDI models seem to fail a lot - lots of comments about that in the NCKA forum, and mine failed the third time I used it.

Google CHIRP technology and you'll get all the information you might need and a lot you don't need.  CHIRP is better in many situations, in others it makes no noticeable difference.

Whichever you get, this can help you get started.  I didn't write this, and don't remember where I found it, but it gave me an excellent starting point for the settings and as I used the finders more, I tweaked them:

2D:  High Chirp = 200kHz, Mid Chirp = 83 kHz, Low Chirp = 50kHz.  I run in HIGH CHIRP.

DSI - 800kHz offers best resolution while 455 has better depth penetration. I always just use 800kHz for all the waters I am in.

SONAR SETTINGS: GENERAL USE/FRESHWATER/SALTWATER/TROLLING/ DEEP WATER/SHALLOW WATER is critical.  I use SHALLOW water when I am in 60 ft. or less.  I will switch to FRESHWATER for anything deeper than that.  The manual clearly states: "Use FRESHWATER mode when fishing in less than 100 feet of water; otherwise your unit may not track bottom properly"

Leave Sensitivity in AUTO until you get a good handle on EVERYTHING else.  Then you can fine tune with this setting once you become a learned pro.
*NOTE: you can even make small adjustments (+/- 40%) to the sensitivity with AUTO turned ON!

I find PING SPEED in NORMAL is best.

RANGE: Auto

NOISE REJECTION: Off. We have no other devises or engines on our kayaks that need filtering.

SURFACE CLARITY - I will go back and forth on this one depending on water conditions. Murky- set to LOW. Clear water set to HIGH for more sensitivity. (This was backwards in my mind before I learned a thing or two)

COLOR LINE: leave this at the default 76%.


They don't turn into paperweights...   

Tinker,

Great advice.  The manuals that come with Lowrance FF's aren't worth much, and there isn't much on the web on how to tune the newer models.  I'm always messing around with my settings, and then I get it so out of wack I need to reset it to factory settings, and start over.  I'm going to give your settings a try.

I think we could have an entire thread on how people configure their FF's, and would probably be a good article to have on the website here.

I have the Hook 5 and an Elite HDI 5 my son uses.  My only complaint, is that when we are fishing together, my Hook 5 picks up interference from my son's FF's and pixilizes my screen, but as soon as I paddle away from him, it goes away.  His Elite 5 isn't affected. Not sure if there is a setting to get rid of that interference?

What is the difference in these models?  I was looking at the hook 5 and the lowest I find it on amazon is $349 with no transducer (I don't need one).  The elite 5 can be had for 250.

I currently have an elite 4x, I mostly want to upgrade for GPS charting capability.

I don't know all of the technical differences, but having fished with both, side by side, I think for Kayak fishing, you would be happy with either model. Before I upgraded to the 5's, I had an elite 4, which was great, but the smaller screen made it difficult to see details, especially when splitting the screen.

One main difference between the elite and the hook, the hook has a different transducer, with wider and deeper capabilities.  I had to switch out my elite 4 transducer for the newer Hook transducer.  I believe the new transducer also does side scanning, which I'm still trying to figure out, but it sounds cool.

However you go, you may want to add the extended service plan from Lowrance to cover you if the unit fails, as it's saved me a few times.

What is the difference in these models?  I was looking at the hook 5 and the lowest I find it on amazon is $349 with no transducer (I don't need one).  The elite 5 can be had for 250.

I currently have an elite 4x, I mostly want to upgrade for GPS charting capability.

The HOOK 5 they sent me is equivalent to the Elite 5 CHIRP.  The HOOK 5 plugged into my Elite 4 HDI transducer - which is the same as the Elite 4 CHIRP unit - and it works fine.  You may not need a new transducer and either Bill over on NCKA or Lowrance can let you know.

The new transducers give the HOOK unit more capabilities - like side-scanning - but those transducers are darned costly, and I was happy to avoid the cost.

Hope that helps.



 

thanks everyone, my original plan to get the hook 5 seems to be the best choice,hey wait, the dragonfly looks cool
tinker, thats the most telling info i have seen thanks so much!
crash, blackbird in medford has the hook 5 w/gps for $299, thats where im getting mine.