Barbie Jeep wheel kayak cart

I have seen a few builds like this but they have all had small hard lawn mower wheels or hand truck wheels.I was going for a cart that I could take down and stow in the kayak so weight was a factor.money was not a factor in this build,I just like to build crap.

I happened upon a old Barbie Jeep in one of our old ranch junk piles.I got to looking at the axle and it was close to ⅜" so I thought hmmmm.so with a hammer I made fast work of removing all 4 wheels.

This cart is specifically for my revo.so it had to do 4 things. 1. Roll on a variety of terrain. 2. Be stable. 3. Be light. 4. disassemble easily for storage. after a quick look and measure my bunks needed to be 11½" to fit the groves on my revo.

After a quick stop at the pipe supply store I had what I needed. This was all  going to be built in ¾" schedule 40 and 80 PVC. 6 T fittings, 3 caps, 1 snap over fitting, and a 26" chunk of ⅜ steel rod.I went with the rod axel over the traditional bolt the wheels to the caps because it's supported by the full length not just a ⅛ inch of plastic.

After all the cutting,gluing,drilling was over I had a very rigid frame that was as compact as it was going to get.the whole frame is sch 40 and the bunks and axel cap stub is sch 80 due to it will take the most stress.with the addition of pool noodle and a little pull strap to secure the yak the whole thing weighed in at 3½ lbs and cost around 10 bucks.i thought the ¾ PVC might be a little light but as of now no problems with a fully rigged revo on a springer outing on Sunday over rough ground.  If it fails I will move up to 1". The kickstand also flips up or pops off during transport.

I know I'm leaving some stuff out but this is a lot to Peck out on my phone.here are some pics and if you have any questions just ask.

That's a great idea for a light wheel that will take some weight - nice! I had trouble getting my T-design home-made cart strong enough, so I built a 2nd iteration that is a triangle-type design, and it's been much stronger and durable. That said, you look like you know what you're doing. 

Nice job Yaktastic.... Ps he has to look like he knows what he's doing he's a cowboy!

Nice cart, Yaktastic! But because few of us have access to a junked Barbie jeep, does anybody know of similar wide wheels which are available someplace and which could be used to make a similar cart?

That's a great idea for a light wheel that will take some weight - nice! I had trouble getting my T-design home-made cart strong enough, so I built a 2nd iteration that is a triangle-type design, and it's been much stronger and durable. That said, you look like you know what you're doing. 

Post a picture of your triangle design cart, Captain R.

I think as an homage to it's prior life you should paint the cart pink. Either way it's a genius use of those fatty wheels and you never have to worry about them going flat... Well in the traditional sense that is.

Nice cart, Yaktastic! But because few of us have access to a junked Barbie jeep, does anybody know of similar wide wheels which are available someplace and which could be used to make a similar cart?

That's a great idea for a light wheel that will take some weight - nice! I had trouble getting my T-design home-made cart strong enough, so I built a 2nd iteration that is a triangle-type design, and it's been much stronger and durable. That said, you look like you know what you're doing. 

Post a picture of your triangle design cart, Captain R.

Google "replacement power wheels tires" and click shop.

excellent.

FishesfromTupperware wrote a post back in 2007 about a cart he made from Barbie Jeep.  For a moment I thought someone had revived the thread.

-Mark-

Post a picture of your triangle design cart, Captain R.

Will do, when I get home. I should probably admit: I completely stole the design from BogFrogDog, who is an engineer.

As promised... I'm not suggesting I have it all figured out, but for a non-plug-in cart I have no complaints. I lash a ratchet strap around the kayak and to the screw eyes. Detail of wheel to show simple nut with cotter pin assembly. The wheels are Harbor Freight and I consider them a consumable part... Although 8 months in they're still fine.

EDIT: I should also note that my design considerations were different; I am not concerned with weight or breakdown-ability, because I always hike mine back up to my trailer.

Sorry for the thread jack!

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Sorry for the thread jack!

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I'm telling! No problem. I like the the idea captain.

I have seen a few builds like this but they have all had small hard lawn mower wheels or hand truck wheels.I was going for a cart that I could take down and stow in the kayak so weight was a factor.money was not a factor in this build,I just like to build crap.

I happened upon a old Barbie Jeep in one of our old ranch junk piles.I got to looking at the axle and it was close to ⅜" so I thought hmmmm.so with a hammer I made fast work of removing all 4 wheels.

This cart is specifically for my revo.so it had to do 4 things. 1. Roll on a variety of terrain. 2. Be stable. 3. Be light. 4. disassemble easily for storage. after a quick look and measure my bunks needed to be 11½" to fit the groves on my revo.

After a quick stop at the pipe supply store I had what I needed. This was all  going to be built in ¾" schedule 40 and 80 PVC. 6 T fittings, 3 caps, 1 snap over fitting, and a 26" chunk of ⅜ steel rod.I went with the rod axel over the traditional bolt the wheels to the caps because it's supported by the full length not just a ⅛ inch of plastic.

After all the cutting,gluing,drilling was over I had a very rigid frame that was as compact as it was going to get.the whole frame is sch 40 and the bunks and axel cap stub is sch 80 due to it will take the most stress.with the addition of pool noodle and a little pull strap to secure the yak the whole thing weighed in at 3½ lbs and cost around 10 bucks.i thought the ¾ PVC might be a little light but as of now no problems with a fully rigged revo on a springer outing on Sunday over rough ground.  If it fails I will move up to 1". The kickstand also flips up or pops off during transport.

I know I'm leaving some stuff out but this is a lot to Peck out on my phone.here are some pics and if you have any questions just ask.

I recently left my DIY scupper cart at the beach and someone took it. Today I saw a Barbie jeep for $5 at a thrift store so I bought with the intention of making another cart, this time not a scupper cart though.

How has yours worked over time? Do the wheels seem good for the job?

I plan on using all 4 on one axle if it'll end up fitting inside of the front hatch of my revolution.

Thanks for any advice before I get started!


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Fyi there's a place down in Kent that sells a wide variety of flat free tires. http://www.marathonind.com/Flat-Free-Tires-C13.aspx

I have seen a few builds like this but they have all had small hard lawn mower wheels or hand truck wheels.I was going for a cart that I could take down and stow in the kayak so weight was a factor.money was not a factor in this build,I just like to build crap.

I happened upon a old Barbie Jeep in one of our old ranch junk piles.I got to looking at the axle and it was close to ⅜" so I thought hmmmm.so with a hammer I made fast work of removing all 4 wheels.

This cart is specifically for my revo.so it had to do 4 things. 1. Roll on a variety of terrain. 2. Be stable. 3. Be light. 4. disassemble easily for storage. after a quick look and measure my bunks needed to be 11½" to fit the groves on my revo.

After a quick stop at the pipe supply store I had what I needed. This was all  going to be built in ¾" schedule 40 and 80 PVC. 6 T fittings, 3 caps, 1 snap over fitting, and a 26" chunk of ⅜ steel rod.I went with the rod axel over the traditional bolt the wheels to the caps because it's supported by the full length not just a ⅛ inch of plastic.

After all the cutting,gluing,drilling was over I had a very rigid frame that was as compact as it was going to get.the whole frame is sch 40 and the bunks and axel cap stub is sch 80 due to it will take the most stress.with the addition of pool noodle and a little pull strap to secure the yak the whole thing weighed in at 3½ lbs and cost around 10 bucks.i thought the ¾ PVC might be a little light but as of now no problems with a fully rigged revo on a springer outing on Sunday over rough ground.  If it fails I will move up to 1". The kickstand also flips up or pops off during transport.

I know I'm leaving some stuff out but this is a lot to Peck out on my phone.here are some pics and if you have any questions just ask.

I recently left my DIY scupper cart at the beach and someone took it. Today I saw a Barbie jeep for $5 at a thrift store so I bought with the intention of making another cart, this time not a scupper cart though.

How has yours worked over time? Do the wheels seem good for the job?

I plan on using all 4 on one axle if it'll end up fitting inside of the front hatch of my revolution.

Thanks for any advice before I get started!


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Works great. I added  pins on the  at the base of the bunks to stop them from turning slightly if you hit a bump or rock. Causing your cart and yak to crab.

As promised... I'm not suggesting I have it all figured out, but for a non-plug-in cart I have no complaints. I lash a ratchet strap around the kayak and to the screw eyes. Detail of wheel to show simple nut with cotter pin assembly. The wheels are Harbor Freight and I consider them a consumable part... Although 8 months in they're still fine.

EDIT: I should also note that my design considerations were different; I am not concerned with weight or breakdown-ability, because I always hike mine back up to my trailer.

Sorry for the thread jack!

Sent from my XT1034 using Tapatalk

I have bouncing around the thought of how to do a triangle type cart for a few weeks now.  My T cart didn't work so well (I'm not an engineer).  I will be trying this style next.