Install suggestions for Transducer

Ok, I have the correct Transducer for my Trident 13 (XTH 9 20 P)

Pointy end towards the front like the directions say in the package. I'm debating installing the leveling block only to the inside because it looks fairly level on the outside and sticking the block under would expose it more.

Routing the cable (it's 20' long) inside the hull starting at a point forward close to the "transducer here" sticker then back up under the base for the FF and coiling it under the deck inside. (I hope this makes sense)

Any thoughts?

I have the same boat, T13A.  Pointy or blunt end forward, no leveling block required.  I put mine pointy end forward because it seemed to be more level.  

I have a personal installation webpage I have been meaning to put out there.  Give me a few minutes and I will post a link here:

http://www.demonick.com/kayak/ff.gps/transducer.html

Just a quick page, of a site under low level construction.

Nice job Demonick!

That's great, Thanks!

My wife is heading to Woodburn and I asked her to stop at Goodwill or the Dollar store to see if they have any inexpensive plastic cutting boards I can cut for a washer.

The wire routing is my main concern, but that will wait till she returns .....

Routing the cable (it's 20' long) inside the hull starting at a point forward close to the "transducer here" sticker then back up under the base for the FF and coiling it under the deck inside. (I hope this makes sense)

Any thoughts?

I have not yet figured out the transducer cable routing.  Unless I want to cut then splice the transducer cable I need to drill two 5/8" holes to get the cable into the hull, then back out.  I am uncomfortable trying to seal two 5/8" holes when the cable is only 1/8".  So for now I have the transducer cable coiled up in a ziplock bag (for neatness, not water-proofing) and just hidden in the well under the sonar shield.  I installed a marine power plug (cigar style) in the forward wall of the sonar shield well to power my FF which is temporarily mounted on the rod pod, so both power and transducer cables come out from under the sonar shield.  Ultimate FF mounting will be off a Scotty deck mount on the right between the rod pod and sonar shield, but I am still not satisfied with the extension arms and mounts offered by Scotty and RAM to put the FF about 6" stern of the transducer and about 6" above the deck.

ok, for everyone with a Trident anticipating either full out retail replacement or exchange of their stock Humminbird transducer, there are two different models to choose from. one has a 30ft cable, which is what a lot of folks end up with, and the other has 15 feet. the longer cable will set you back a whopping $20 additional if you opt to go that route.

here's the link;

http://store.humminbird.com/search.ep?keyWords=xth+9+20+p+15&x=0&y=0

if you look in our on site, online, library of links etc, you'll also find a functional link to their exchange program for transducers.

This is what I ended up doing, I still need to clip the cable ties and just clean up the shavings. The transducer wire coil is attached to the battery holder.

I have the same boat, T13A.  Pointy or blunt end forward, no leveling block required.  I put mine pointy end forward because it seemed to be more level.  

I have a personal installation webpage I have been meaning to put out there.  Give me a few minutes and I will post a link here:

http://www.demonick.com/kayak/ff.gps/transducer.html

Just a quick page, of a site under low level construction.

Hey Demonick,

I like the idea of mounting the transducer in the scupper hole that is designed for just this purpose on the OK T-13A, but what freaks me out is this...it looks like your foot would constantly hit the wire, perhaps making this a weak link? As apposed to mounting it in the hull with foam and Goop. I like the transducer making contact with the water thus you would be able to take advantage of monitoring water temps. Have you experienced any problems of this nature with this type of transducer mounting?

Thanks

Chuck

Unless you have some seriously long legs, I highly doubt the 'ducer in the scupper will get in the way of a foot. 

My only concern is the speed of the scupper draining if 90% of the hole is filled in with 'ducer hardware. 

I know that when I have punched through the surf and take a wave over the bow on my way out, my foot wells are full of water until it gets the chance to self bail on the downward slide heading into the next breaker/swell.   I kinda wish the holes were a bit bigger to drain even faster, as all this water in the foot wells adds unstable weight to the topside of my yak. 

I specifically put my 'ducer in the hull to avoid reducing the draining ability of the scupper. 

My only concern is the speed of the scupper draining if 90% of the hole is filled in with 'ducer hardware. 

I second that concern.  Heck I found that the sonar shield hold down clips are enought to effectively plug those scuppers.

O2, you routing looks nice and clean!

My only concern is the speed of the scupper draining if 90% of the hole is filled in with 'ducer hardware. 

I second that concern.  Heck I found that the sonar shield hold down clips are enought to effectively plug those scuppers.

Easy fix for that too.  Remove the hold down straps, and install bungees.


From this...






To this...

My legs are short and stubby, the transducer cable is not an issue for me.

The transducer does slow down the scupper drainage rate.  I have thought about beveling the underside of the nut on the appropriate side(s). 

I replaced the Sonar Shield strap with a bungee as shown by Insayn.  Works GREAT!