need to see your wiring install.....

I have a lowrance elite4 dsi  and a ezo li-po battery what I don`t have is the balls to do any cutting and splicing of any wires ( am a dampainter can change plugs on a power cord but know nothing about wiring! )till I can see how this all comes together to fit my yak which is a revo13. I just need to take a peek at somebodies project...would only take a minute to see what to do...have looked at the threads/posts here  but would feel a lot more comfortable about this if I could come to you and see and talk with you about this....
in return I could bring you a slab of vacuum packed salmon that I got the other day. I live in the dalles but come into Portland a lot.
thanks,
mark 

Why not just put crimp connectors on the ends of the FF and call it good?

I have a lowrance elite4 dsi  and a ezo li-po battery what I don`t have is the balls to do any cutting and splicing of any wires ( am a dampainter can change plugs on a power cord but know nothing about wiring! )till I can see how this all comes together to fit my yak which is a revo13. I just need to take a peek at somebodies project...would only take a minute to see what to do...have looked at the threads/posts here  but would feel a lot more comfortable about this if I could come to you and see and talk with you about this....
in return I could bring you a slab of vacuum packed salmon that I got the other day. I live in the dalles but come into Portland a lot.
thanks,
mark

I am at the other end of the spectrum.  I do electrical / electronics type work for the most part. 
My DIY home painting projects have something of a Picasso look to them though. 
They need to have "house painting by numbers" for people like me.

Transducer cable to my understanding is a coaxial type shielded cable.   I say to my understanding because I saw no need to cut / splice the cables on my kayaks or boat.  All had more cable length than needed, but was simple enough to neatly coil up and secure the extra.    We call those coils "Service Loops" since you never know if you might want to change things and it is so much harder to "Cut a cable longer"   
One might be tempted to cut and splice the cable so to pass though a very small hole that is easier to make water tight.   I , as many here have, found products that allow making a large enough hole to pass the connector through, yet still have a nice clean look when finished. 



My transducer, battery pack and FF mounting location are rather close to each other, so didn't need to run the cable any length within the kayaks.   When mounting or adding any accessories to the hull of the kayaks,  I placed little plastic cable hangers on the backside of the rivots / bolts where possible.  In the future should I run cables any length within, I can use those cable hangers to secure cables up and out of the way.  So to help reduce any gear I stow inside the kayak from getting tangled / snagged on wires.



If you find you still need to cut / splice the cables for any reason,  I can find a number of pictorial walk through for you regarding doing so.  If only the connection of the FF power wires to you power source is at question,  as Noah stated, that is easy to do.   I like to use water proof connectors that allow you to easily disconnect and reconnect.  Would be happy to send you some at no charge.   If putting together the "Battery Box" is the issue,  that does involve a slight bit more but still easy to do. 
  You will just owe me some local fishing knowledge as I come down to the Columbia often to fish.

Mark, I am in Hood River and can help if you want to bring your kayak to me and we can do the surgery in my garage.
Only problem tomorrow is Fathers day......we are off to Troutdale around 4 pm.....anytime after 10 am in good for me.
Give me a call at 541 386 3032 if you want to connect.

thanks doc I will get in touch with u.....happy pops day by the way to all... my f.f. power leads are not that long (not so with transducer though) and not sure where I am going to place battery box in yak. do I cannibalize power lead that came with battery and splice to waterproof connection to leads (inline fuse as well) that will be spliced to f.f. leads?and than get extra wire for length from that to existing f.f. leads and just crimp ends? I think I do but not sure... would be much appreciated if I could just take a peek at someone elses setup that has done this....doc? I don`t want to tie up anyones time for any surgeries :-)  am sure I can do this if only for a peek at what someone elses terminal connections are. I see alls battery boxes with short lead outside box but then what? also see f.f. placement on yaks but nothing between the two as well as said before the terminal other than waterproof connections but besides battery am not seeing other connections....sorry if I am being too cornfusing, its a dampainter thing I guess.   

dampainter,
Happy Fathers day to you too.
I would start at the battery box......internally wire, using AWG-18 Red and Black insulated wire that can be bought at NAPA or elsewhere as you are only dealing with 12 volts DC.....install connectors that plug into the battery......splice fuse connector  in the +12 volt red wire......make connection to the battery box connector.....that completes the battery box....unless you install a external battery charge connector to the box.
The rest of the wiring goes straight to the fish finder  factory + and - leads.
The factory leads should be long enough to go from the fish finder, through a hole into the interior of the hull so the connections from the battery box leads are hidden internally....give yourself some slack wire so you can reposition the fish finder to suit your viewing......either use a crimp splice or solder the wires and insulate the individual solder connection with heat shrink tubing or carefully tape the connection with black PVC electrical tape.
If you buy 15 to 20 feet of the red and black lead wires, there is ample wire for the battery box internal wiring and then the external wire required to make the battery to fish finder connection......for this wiring that runs between the battery and fish finder, I like to pre-twist together, the black and red wire using a drill motor......simply hold the black and red wires parallel, install one end into your chuck on the drill motor, tighten down chuck, have someone else hold together and stretch the wires out together and then run the drill motor for several seconds so you get about 10 to 12 twists per foot....this keeps the wires parallel and easy to fish through the hull....makes for a neater installation.
Hope this helps.

You can certainly cut / splice the power cable that came with it.  Granted the nice thing about the batteries like the EZO is you can use them to charge other electronics and keeping that plug intact could be useful down the road.

I would be happy to send you a KIT which will have all of the needed connectors, fuse holder, splicing material and even a grommet for the cable to exit the box and remain water tight.  Will even toss in an extra fuse for backup.   All you will need is wire strippers / cutters,  pliers to squeeze the splices down and lighter for the shrink tubing.   Forgive the poor illustration, but you can see there is little to it.   I will include plenty of extra materials for splices should you need to extend the length of the FF power cable.  It is nice to have a waterproof connector between the battery box and FF.  Makes it simple and easy to disconnect and remove the battery box for charging, storage, security ....

Craig,

Do you have part numbers for the connectors and fuse holders you use?  I'm always so ghetto about this shit.  Time to start looking pretty!

-Allen

doc between u and craig I think I can do this ESPECIALLY with the help you 2 have just given me, I don`t want to bother u for your time to help with this surgery I really do want to try and do this when time permits to get to it and if it ends up being too confusing for me I may call, thank you very much sir, same goes for u too craig, very very very much appreciate both of you to take time for the help. I am abit... overwhelmed at the moment by it.
a sincere thanks.
mark

Mark,
Your very welcome.
Allen,
As far as part numbers for the Fuse Holder, angled power connector and waterproof connector ....  How good is your Chinese   
I just bought bulk quantities through distributors and a few eBay auctions/   All very generic.

Mark,
Your very welcome.
Allen,
As far as part numbers for the Fuse Holder, angled power connector and waterproof connector ....  How good is your Chinese   
I just bought bulk quantities through distributors and a few eBay auctions/   All very generic.

我的普通话很好

-Allen

BTW - the Hobie through hull wiring kit is the best I've found. It doesn't have any little screws to strip or corrode and has a tree of rubber gaskets to custom match your wire configuration.
Downside is the price, but you do get two in a pack so it's still on par with the West Marine plug.

相当好

Mark,
No problem......you have my number if you need a life line!
Dale   aka DSC
PS I am not into Chinese characters

CraigVM62,

I can't find that West Marine through hull. Can you help me with the part number?



Thanks.

Alex.