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Topic: Stainless Steel question...  (Read 3772 times)

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  • Location: The Gorge
  • Date Registered: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 701
What type of stainless steel is used for the steel rods in halibut rigs? Is that the same stuff used in crab trap bait-holders?

Any help would be appreciated... Thank you!

Fred "True" Trujillo
"This above all: to thine own self, be true, and it must follow, as the day the night, thou canst not then be false to any man."


Fungunnin

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Date Registered: Aug 2010
  • Posts: 2548
What type of stainless steel is used for the steel rods in halibut rigs? Is that the same stuff used in crab trap bait-holders?

Any help would be appreciated... Thank you!

Fred "True" Trujillo
I don't think I understand what you are asking about ....
What steel rods? Are you asking about spreader bars?


Elkhornsun

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Monterey, CA
  • Date Registered: May 2014
  • Posts: 27
Generally speaking SS 304 is the most widely used due to its lower cost than other types. That is why it will still rust just not as fast as mild steel. SS 316 for example is 25% more expensive so the type used is the lowest cost that will get the job done and that is most widely available in the quantity needed.

There are special steel alloys I would like to use but the minimum order is a metric ton, so I buy something else.


  • Location: The Gorge
  • Date Registered: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 701
Yeah, I was talking about 303, 304, 316, or 316L steel. I would like to use 316 in a couple of projects I have, but I hear there are issues with the how difficult it is to bend 316 steel rods. Would a Harbor Freight bender handle it?

Fred "True" Trujillo
"This above all: to thine own self, be true, and it must follow, as the day the night, thou canst not then be false to any man."


Mojo Jojo

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Suffers from Yakfishiolus Catchyitis
  • Location: Tillamook, Oregon
  • Date Registered: May 2014
  • Posts: 6071
Yeah, I was talking about 303, 304, 316, or 316L steel. I would like to use 316 in a couple of projects I have, but I hear there are issues with the how difficult it is to bend 316 steel rods. Would a Harbor Freight bender handle it?

Fred "True" Trujillo
If you think it won't bend it try your local muffler shop the should have a top end hydraulic bender and usually bend DIY projects for a fee.  Just make sure you know your angles.



Shannon
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INSAYN

  • ORC_Safety
  • Sturgeon
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  • **RIP...Ron, Ro, AMB, Stephen**
  • Location: Forest Grove, OR
  • Date Registered: Aug 2008
  • Posts: 5417
Yeah, I was talking about 303, 304, 316, or 316L steel. I would like to use 316 in a couple of projects I have, but I hear there are issues with the how difficult it is to bend 316 steel rods. Would a Harbor Freight bender handle it?

Fred "True" Trujillo


True, what are you trying to make? 
Is this a tube project, or solid project? 

In a nutshell, stainless needs to be bend one of two ways.
Serious pressure from a big machine, or serious localized heat.
Depending on the diameter or thickness of the material you are working with, and how much of a bend you need, your tooling will have to follow suit.

In a home garage, heat is your best bet for bar stock.  A good 'ol Oxy/Ace smoke wrench, solid vice, hammer and a bucket of water will be your tools of choice. 

You need to get the bend area to a glowing yellow/orange color, and be careful bending if you only get it up to a cherry red. 
Cherry red is on the lower end of the heat range, and can cause it to tear if you are making into too tight of a bend.

Note:
Propane and Butane torches will be limited on how hot they can get the metal.   
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


  • Location: The Gorge
  • Date Registered: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 701
I'm looking at bending 1/4" type 316 stainless rods at 90-degrees and into  "U" shapes (around a 5/16" rod). I'm not going to lie, it's going to be a steep learning curve for me with regards to manipulating steel to my will. I'm wondering if I can do the majority (or all) of the bending with a Harbor Freight-type bender...

Thanks for your insights and help, everyone.

Fred "True" Trujillo
"This above all: to thine own self, be true, and it must follow, as the day the night, thou canst not then be false to any man."


Elkhornsun

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Monterey, CA
  • Date Registered: May 2014
  • Posts: 27
This will be a trial and error process as stainless is not easy to bend and get a proper well rounded radius. The bender at Harbor Freight will definitely be good enough as manual benders go and it will make bending most steel fairly easy. I have a similar one made in China and it has a 3' long bar for plenty of leverage. Thickness is the primary consideration. I bend only up to 3mm or 1/8 thickness so it is fine for my purposes.

You want to avoid heating stainless in any manner as it is self-tempering and this is not always what you want. That is why when drilling into stainless the RPM's will be half what you would use when cutting into mild steel.


couch

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: na
  • Date Registered: Oct 2015
  • Posts: 6
How did it go for you? 18/8 (ie, 303, 304 305) is easily bendable, but what kind of tolerances are you looking to achieve? What are you making?


  • Location: The Gorge
  • Date Registered: Feb 2009
  • Posts: 701
I just figured out my supplier, still haven't gotten the bender. So many things going on! Salmon! Must fill freezer! Kitchen counters have to be done, chicken coops to be made... Aaaiiighhh!!! Too much to do! Some day I'll get back to this...

Fred "True" Trujillo
"This above all: to thine own self, be true, and it must follow, as the day the night, thou canst not then be false to any man."


couch

  • Plankton
  • *
  • Location: na
  • Date Registered: Oct 2015
  • Posts: 6
No time like the present. Get a bar the shape you want the U to be, and a big hammer. I did hundreds of high alloy Ubolts operable that I hand made for the chunnel drilling machine this way (long time back). If it doesn't bend or you get some cracks in the outside of the bend, simply heat it to light orange with a torch and start whacking again once it's cool. If the rod needs to be smooth and hammer marks not good for the project, get a hollow rod that will bend it around your form. What are you using these for? I have some extra stainless Ubolts (don't ask) that have bigger IDS that you are discussing or needing available that I'd be glad to share. These (the small ones, I have a couple sizes, don't ask how this came to be:-) are threaded 3/8-16 @ 2" threads on the ends and have an ID of 2".  I'm not sure they will work if you want 1/4" rod, but I don't know what you are needing them for, maybe they'll work fine.

I'm in PDX for local pickup if that's where you happen to be.....
« Last Edit: October 10, 2015, 02:44:56 PM by couch »