Help Pick My First Kayak

Possibly even more important than demo in your case - you might want to just buy used, because I'm betting that after a few trips you're going to be more comfortable and wish you had bought something sleeker.

Keep in mind, something like the X-13 is designed for fishing and diving, and is a hell of a lot more stable than the width measurement would have you think.  I'm not saying you should definitely get an X-13 either, it's just a good example. 

When you demo, don't be afraid to lean over a bit.  Lots of boats feel like they are going to tip, but WON'T, often you'll have to lean so far as falling out before the boat will actually tip.  JUST DON'T TRY THAT IN A COOSA!

Possibly even more important than demo in your case - you might want to just buy used, because I'm betting that after a few trips you're going to be more comfortable and wish you had bought something sleeker.

I kinda have that rattling around my head a bit, too. I'm pretty sure this will be a first kayak, on the way to a propel or Hobie. So, first kayak, relegated to backup kayak status eventually. Not "only" kayak. Presuming the hobby sticks.

Keep in mind, something like the X-13 is designed for fishing and diving, and is a hell of a lot more stable than the width measurement would have you think.  I'm not saying you should definitely get an X-13 either, it's just a good example. 

I would welcome any suggestions on kayaks I should be considering, even if they are of the "you'll outgrow this in 3 years once you have more experience/confidence/experience/and-lose-a-bit-of-weight-tubby!"

When you demo, don't be afraid to lean over a bit.  Lots of boats feel like they are going to tip, but WON'T, often you'll have to lean so far as falling out before the boat will actually tip.  JUST DON'T TRY THAT IN A COOSA!

My demo plan for each is to do some turns in place, some straight paddling slow, then fast, and turns. Then get in 3-4' and try to dump it a few times to judge the stability.

Oh, and, why not to try flipping a Coosa ? My feeling was the Coosa HD was more to my liking, but its spendier than I want at this point. I'd rather put the money into paddle and fish finder.

Oh, and, why not to try flipping a Coosa ? My feeling was the Coosa HD was more to my liking, but its spendier than I want at this point. I'd rather put the money into paddle and fish finder.

Mainly because there is a pre-determined outcome, you WILL flip or fall out.  Actually, maybe you should, then you'll have a better understanding of primary and secondary stability when you do the same in other kayaks.  Primary stability is a little important, secondary stability is REALLY important, particularly for fishing.

Got it, makes sense. Primary is comfort and control, secondary is safety.

I strongly suggest buying a used boat--for half the cash of new you can get something in great shape that will exceed your needs. Just identify a few designs, or design criteria and get on the water; that way if you decide it's not for you, you can resell it and only be out pocket change. Many kayaks see little use, and if they are stored properly--out of the sun, so the hull doesn't get deformed, and aren't subjected to too many impact tests--they'll last longer than you want them.

I'm a big fan of not using a rudder on kayaks that I paddle (kayaks I pedal are a different story, or course!). So I wouldn't limit boat choice based on whether or not it has a rudder--you can add one later if you must.

Longer, heavier boats are harder to manage off the water, with length being a particular factor as you lift the boat in wind, but on the water I doubt you'll notice the weight difference in this category; the impact of length on maneuverability is often more dependent on hull form--some long boats can turn quickly, many can't.

Good luck!

I strongly suggest buying a used boat--for half the cash of new you can get something in great shape that will exceed your needs. Just identify a few designs, or design criteria and get on the water; that way if you decide it's not for you, you can resell it and only be out pocket change. Many kayaks see little use, and if they are stored properly--out of the sun, so the hull doesn't get deformed, and aren't subjected to too many impact tests--they'll last longer than you want them.

I'm a big fan of not using a rudder on kayaks that I paddle (kayaks I pedal are a different story, or course!). So I wouldn't limit boat choice based on whether or not it has a rudder--you can add one later if you must.

Longer, heavier boats are harder to manage off the water, with length being a particular factor as you lift the boat in wind, but on the water I doubt you'll notice the weight difference in this category; the impact of length on maneuverability is often more dependent on hull form--some long boats can turn quickly, many can't.

Good luck!

DAR - what makes you say that about rudders? I found having one on my old tarpon 140 was an game changer, and made trolling/cutting through wind/controlling a drift/improving tracking an absolute breeze. The before/after performance was, in my experience at least, a dramatic improvement in every area, with no single drawback that I could identify.

Got it, makes sense. Primary is comfort and control, secondary is safety.

 pinstriper,

 I think you have this reversed. Safety should always be 1st.
                                              Once you feel safe and in control--- comfort will follow.

Got it, makes sense. Primary is comfort and control, secondary is safety.

 pinstriper,

 I think you have this reversed. Safety should always be 1st.
                                              Once you feel safe and in control--- comfort will follow.

Sorry, let me be pedantic (my true medium).

Primary Stability is control and comfort. Secondary Stability is safety. Safety is more mandatory. Comfort is selected for from those that qualify.

   Damhik

  I had to look that up............

For me, primary stability may be nice on flat water, and help beginners feel more comfortable in very calm conditions, however, high primary stability also tends to make the boat move with the surface of the water. Choppy water-->very bumpy ride=not comfortable. YMMV.

For me, primary stability may be nice on flat water, and help beginners feel more comfortable in very calm conditions, however, high primary stability also tends to make the boat move with the surface of the water. Choppy water-->very bumpy ride=not comfortable. YMMV.

I wish you guys would make up my mind, already ! Sheesh.

OK, I have cast the final vote.

I'd like to thank everyone for their thoughtful, patient, and thought provoking advice.

We were on our way to the campground last night and had a minor veterinary emergency that caused us to abort. Called the afterhours line and spoke to the vet, arranged to see him first thing this morning. Was finished by 8:30am and had the unexpected weekend here in town, so was able to head over to the paddle-fest in Scappoose.

Disappointed that they didn't have a BG2 to test paddle. But I was able to paddle a Ride 115 - a kayak I had on my short list a while back and almost included here.

I was also able to demo the Predator MX. I could have tried the XL but had really already ruled it out.

I found the most comfortable and also most stable was the MX. With the seat in the low position, it was just rock solid while paddling, and also while leaning. The Ride had a little shimmy to it while paddling. And when you lean in it, it leans with you. Quite a ways before you reach the tipping point.

But the MX, it doesn't budge while paddling, or shifting your butt in the seat. And when you lean in it, it just kind of pushes back. Very little roll to it.

I also found it the easier paddle. I don't know if it is faster in terms of top speed, but it was easier to get moving from a stop. It turned easily but tracked well - though the Ride 115 probably tracked a little better.

I also liked the open deck plan of the MX, just for getting in and out. You can step directly into the centerline, not being forced to straddle a console or hatch or anything and put the boat out of balance.

NA had a NOS unit in yellow, which is a discontinued color now. They also had a current year in camo. They and the factory rep claimed there was no other difference, and in fact I preferred the yellow for visibility to other boaters. I would have accepted camo, but I wanted bright if I could get it.

I also picked up a NRS Chinook PFD - having determined during class that my off-the-rack PB PFD was not comfortable while paddling (or when I used it for wading). The Chinook has a higher cut all around, and higher still in the back. Yay !

I went with the Adventure Technology Search paddle (alas, not the Angler which was not in stock) in 240. I liked the price, length, and adjustability.

Also scored a cart with the poles in the scupper holes.

Gonna get it on the water tomorrow, probably out of Cook Park.

I strongly suggest buying a used boat--for half the cash of new you can get something in great shape that will exceed your needs. Just identify a few designs, or design criteria and get on the water; that way if you decide it's not for you, you can resell it and only be out pocket change. Many kayaks see little use, and if they are stored properly--out of the sun, so the hull doesn't get deformed, and aren't subjected to too many impact tests--they'll last longer than you want them.

I'm a big fan of not using a rudder on kayaks that I paddle (kayaks I pedal are a different story, or course!). So I wouldn't limit boat choice based on whether or not it has a rudder--you can add one later if you must.

Longer, heavier boats are harder to manage off the water, with length being a particular factor as you lift the boat in wind, but on the water I doubt you'll notice the weight difference in this category; the impact of length on maneuverability is often more dependent on hull form--some long boats can turn quickly, many can't.

Good luck!

DAR - what makes you say that about rudders? I found having one on my old tarpon 140 was an game changer, and made trolling/cutting through wind/controlling a drift/improving tracking an absolute breeze. The before/after performance was, in my experience at least, a dramatic improvement in every area, with no single drawback that I could identify.

That's because tarpon don't have good keels.  It's basically a flat bottom boat.  My 160 had no problems in class 2 river water with the rudder up.

The MX is also on my short list. Let us know how it does.