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Topic: heads up on gear tracks!  (Read 5281 times)

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Lee

  • Iris
  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Fuck Cancer!
  • Location: Graham, WA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2009
  • Posts: 6091
I use the same setup as Rawkfish.  It has been really solid.

1 point of contact (single gear track bolt) is probably insufficient for a rod holder, there is way too much force placed on it, partcularly if you're trolling.

If anyone else uses the setup that failed, I'd recommend changing out to what Jeff showed above. 
 


Dark Tuna

  • Lingcod
  • *****
  • "Dark Tuna?"
  • Location: Redmond / Sammamish, WA
  • Date Registered: Aug 2014
  • Posts: 455
I use the dual Might Mount as well, but with the locking version of the Scotty mount base.  Seems very solid.

2015 Jackson Big Tuna (tandem) (dark forest)
2016 Hobie Outback LE (screamin' orange)
2014 KC Kayaks K12 (the better half's, in camo)
2015 Jackson Kraken 13.5 (bluefin)

Raymarine Dragonfly; BB Angler Aces; Kokatat Hydrus 3L SuperNova Angler Dry Suit; Stohlquist Fisherman PFD


Lee

  • Iris
  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Fuck Cancer!
  • Location: Graham, WA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2009
  • Posts: 6091
Ah have the locking RAM version.  It's nice too and has worked great for trolling with divers.
 


dampainter

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: the dalles, oregon
  • Date Registered: Mar 2013
  • Posts: 728
i would highly recommend to anyone that is using the rig i posted that had broke on me to go with setup rawkfish has posted. time for me to do some shopping, thanks for pic jeff!


Yaktrap

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Seattle WA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2012
  • Posts: 712
When gear tracks first came out I tried them out. I twisted and yanked and it failed, I took them off. I tried RAM screwballs but the single point attachment point was questionable and stressed the penetration point at the hull. I switched all my heavy use mounts to plate style with 3 bolts and 3M 4200 marine sealant with non ferrous metal backing plates. Beware of the easy-of-use design that a lot of mounts claim. The real world use in the ocean environment requires much tougher engineering.

Somewhere in there are the mounts I'm talking about...
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pmmpete

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Missoula, Montana
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 1989
Those that use the long extensions below their rod holders are really working with borrowed time with that setup.
A rod holder mounted on a tall extension is like a crowbar trying to tear its mount out of the kayak.

Here is a picture of the base I made for my rod holder. 



I posted an explanation of how I made this base at http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=13167.msg144750#msg144750.
« Last Edit: August 16, 2015, 09:36:04 PM by pmmpete »


craig

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Tualatin, OR
  • Date Registered: Jul 2008
  • Posts: 3814
I use a tall rod holder on mine all the time.  There is a lot of flex in it, like a bungee. Very little flex in a crowbar. Many a salmon has tried to break it, all have failed. Knock on wood.

Last year I used one like the one the OP posted about.  I fish off the left side. every time a salmon got hooked, the rod holder would loosen and conveniently turn closer to me. Once, it hit me in the face when I wasn't paying attention. However, I could not run divers on it, so this year I made my own base out of a chunk of cutting board. It is similar to pmmpete's.  If I could have found a bolt that fit that had a left-handed twist that was much, much less than $15 they cost I would have just used that.


  • WS Commander 120, OK Trident 13, Revo 13
  • Location: Creswell OR
  • Date Registered: Jan 2011
  • Posts: 804
Follows the same concept as pmpete's photo and others, but doubling up on the bolt, twist prevention (unscrewing) with a rod holder, out of the box solution:
http://www.yakattack.us/TBK_1005_p/tbk-1005.htm
Better to keep ones mouth shut and presumed a fool than to open it and remove all doubt.
<Proverbs>