Drilling Anxiety--Which Rail Mount for a Revo13?

The GT90 is PLENTY secure, even for trolling! The 175 is nice if you have the space and access and if you already have it, but don't rule out the GT90 as any less fit for the job. I have even used the colored composite GT90's with no issues! The only caveat is as pointed out, you definitely need a backer on the bottom side or washers and nuts. The 12" fits perfectly in that area, but you can also fit longer ones if you want if you use the GT90's

Unlike Pete, I LOVE extenders and use long RAM ones for both the FF and rod holders. They do have a little bit of movement but I have never had any damage to the holders, mounts or anything.

Yeah...Don't sweat drilling the holes. Just measure twice and drill once!

The GT90 is PLENTY secure, even for trolling! The 175 is nice if you have the space and access and if you already have it, but don't rule out the GT90 as any less fit for the job. I have even used the colored composite GT90's with no issues! The only caveat is as pointed out, you definitely need a backer on the bottom side or washers and nuts. The 12" fits perfectly in that area, but you can also fit longer ones if you want if you use the GT90's

Unlike Pete, I LOVE extenders and use long RAM ones for both the FF and rod holders. They do have a little bit of movement but I have never had any damage to the holders, mounts or anything.

Yeah...Don't sweat drilling the holes. Just measure twice and drill once!

Anyone know if the 16" GT90 backing plates fit cleanly inside of the Revo 13 gunwale?

Anyone know if the 16" GT90 backing plates fit cleanly inside of the Revo 13 gunwale?

Reach inside your kayak and feel the area inside the gunwale in front of the pockets on your Revolution.  It's pretty narrow and arched.  Then reach in with a 16" backing plate, or a similar sized piece of wood, and see if there is a place inside the gunwale where a backing plate will sit flat.  I suspect that fender washers will work better than a backing plate.

If you try to drill the holes for the backing plate from the outside, you are almost certain to miss the top of the arched area inside the gunwale, and your backing plate will end up hitting plastic only with its right front and left rear corner, or its left front and right rear corner, or some other undesirable orientation.  I suggest that you position the backing plate inside the gunwale, use it to mark the position of the holes for the bolts, and then drill the holes from the inside of the kayak.  All of which will be really difficult.

Due to the difficulty of getting bolt holes positioned in flat areas inside the gunwales of my Revolution, I spent the extra money for 16" GT1.75 gear tracks, and mounted them from the outside using screws, which is fast and easy.

I've been planning on putting a track on only one side to keep the other side clear for re-entry. But, that has me reaching over the fishfinder to get to the rod holder. Is that as awkward as it sounds? Most of the pictures show folks putting tracks on both sides.

I've been planning on putting a track on only one side to keep the other side clear for re-entry. But, that has me reaching over the fishfinder to get to the rod holder. Is that as awkward as it sounds? Most of the pictures show folks putting tracks on both sides.

Depends on what kind of rod holder you use, and where you position the rod holder and your fish finder.  Sit in your kayak at home, brace your fish finder and rod holder up where you are thinking of mounting them, and see if it's awkward to reach the rod holder.

Which direction will your rod be pointing?  If your fish finder and your rod holder are both on the right side of your kayak, but the tip of the rod is on the left side of your kayak, you'll need to turn your head back and forth between the fish finder and the tip of your rod.  If the fish finder and the tip of your rod are on the same side of your kayak, you won't need to turn your head much at all to look from one to the other.

Pete,
BTW, thanks for all of your responses on this thread. Clearly you've been through the rigging dance a lot, and I value your input. Also, I'm overdue to visit a good friend in Whitefish, but maybe after ice out as I'm still thawing out from -30 weather in Finland.

Dave

I'm overdue to visit a good friend in Whitefish, but maybe after ice out as I'm still thawing out from -30 weather in Finland.  Dave

Finland!  Pretty nice! did you do any ice fishing?  Let me know if you want to do any ice fishing or kayak fishing when you're out here in Montana.

For a mirage drive leash tie parachord to the mast base inside the front hatch. No holes needed.

For a mirage drive leash tie parachord to the mast base inside the front hatch. No holes needed.

And then?   

Then put a small carabiner on the other end, clip that to the drive, shut the hatch, and you're all set. Only need about two feet. The chord is narrow enough to keep a decent seal on the hatch gasket. Toss it in the hatch when off the water.

I'm just imagining what a hull roll in the surf would look like if you had your Mirage Drive unhooked from the drive well laying in the cockpit area unsecured but leashed to a thin paracord looped under the hatch.  In the event of a water-landing, The drive would likely stay attached to the kayak leash, but I"m sure the hatch would get cracked open and filled with water...making any kind of re-entry (or turning the kayak right side up) nearly impossible.   

My 2013 Revo11 has a pad eye next to the center hatch.  I clip the drive leash to that pad eye.  No new holes for drive leash.  Probably should tuck the fins under the bungee on the hatch to make sure the drive is "secured" for landing.

I'm just imagining what a hull roll in the surf would look like if you had your Mirage Drive unhooked from the drive well laying in the cockpit area unsecured but leashed to a thin paracord looped under the hatch.  In the event of a water-landing, The drive would likely stay attached to the kayak leash, but I"m sure the hatch would get cracked open and filled with water...making any kind of re-entry (or turning the kayak right side up) nearly impossible.   

My 2013 Revo11 has a pad eye next to the center hatch.  I clip the drive leash to that pad eye.  No new holes for drive leash.  Probably should tuck the fins under the bungee on the hatch to make sure the drive is "secured" for landing.

You would be correct.  Even without connecting the Mirage drive to the mast inside, the lid would be the lowest point of a Revo when upside down in the water.  If you are crashing through the surf in that manner, the bungees WILL NOT keep tve lid sealed, and WILL allow copious amounts of water in.

I added a stainless steelpad eye to the front foot well with an 1/8th inch thick aluminum backer plate to spread the load.  This remedies the Mirage leash. 

For the lid, I added a 1" webbing strap across the lid to keep it closed when it is upside down in the surf.

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I added a stainless steelpad eye to the front foot well with an 1/8th inch thick aluminum backer plate to spread the load.  This remedies the Mirage leash. 

For the lid, I added a 1" webbing strap across the lid to keep it closed when it is upside down in the surf.

I'd be interested in seeing how you attached the webbing strap.  Sorry about the hijack, we now return you to our regularly scheduled thread.