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Topic: loose screws  (Read 4137 times)

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boxofrain

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Brookings, Or.
  • Date Registered: May 2006
  • Posts: 1015
 I have a quick question about the screws on my P-13. Wanted to move my anchor rope (bungee) to the very back of the boat instaed of the rear handle as it is now. When I removed the rudder screws they were very loose, added some blue loc-tite and put them back. I started checking all the screws on the boat and about 80% were very loose also.
 The question is, should I remove all the screws and add loc-tite. I realize some screw wells are plasti but are some of them metal as well?
 Ever lost a screw?  ( off your boat fella's)
 Ps can I remove the rear screw wells and add the anchor or live with it as it is?

Thanks for the thought
the memories of a man in his old age, are the deeds of a man in his prime.


polepole

  • Administrator
  • Sturgeon
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  • NorthWest Kayak Anglers
  • Location: San Jose, CA :(
  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
  • Posts: 10095
Hmmm ...  note to self, check loose screws this weekend!  I'll probably go through and loctite them all too ... it can't hurt.

Not sure what you are asking in your "Ps".

-Allen



boxofrain

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Brookings, Or.
  • Date Registered: May 2006
  • Posts: 1015
PS,
 I'm wondering if it is worth all the effort to remove the well nuts and add an anchor attachment to the back, or should I leave my anchor attached to the rear handle?
 Where does your shock cord terminate on your boat?
 Thanks POLEPOLE
the memories of a man in his old age, are the deeds of a man in his prime.


polepole

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  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
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It's been attaching to the rear handle, but I was going to move the rear handle backwards this weekend.  We'll see how it turns out and I'll post pics when I'm all done.

Why do you need to remove the well nuts instead of trying to use them?  I just checked.  They don't line up with the standard clip attachment thingys (what do you call those), but I think I can adapt to it somehow ... need to think about that a bit.

Do you have a rudder.  I don't.  And ... I have a newer boat which has a different attach point for the rudder than the older boats.

-Allen


boxofrain

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Brookings, Or.
  • Date Registered: May 2006
  • Posts: 1015
Yes I have an older molded p13 with tiny little screws on the back to mount the rudder into (no intention of getting a rudder either). Mine are too close together  so I can't attach a padeye (clip attachment thingy). If you move the handle won't you have to use rivets to reset it? Do you trust the strength of those rivits or do you have an alternate plan? I just thought if I can get the anchor point further to the back and lower to the water I would get less "bounce" while anchored. Other wise I am happy the way it is.
 A lot of Jacks have entered the river and are they fun on light tackle!! Mostly bobber caught with sand shrimp or eggs and some people fish with the tail of a herring or anchovie. The big fish are in the river as well but no bite till a good rain hits. They are catching them but only because they are FLOSSING THEIR TEETH and ripping on the line with every rub, now that's just not fishing!!
the memories of a man in his old age, are the deeds of a man in his prime.


boxofrain

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Brookings, Or.
  • Date Registered: May 2006
  • Posts: 1015
After a quick look back at the NCKA site at BILL's article on the quick release system on his boat , I see he has allready put a padeye low to the water and far to the rear of his prowler. Maybe that's the way to go? However I like the option of which side of the boat to drop on, as I just swap sides with the clip.
the memories of a man in his old age, are the deeds of a man in his prime.


polepole

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  • Date Registered: Apr 2006
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Boxo,

I just posted this pic in the anchor thread, but here it is again.  Notice the pad eyes on the rear.

I can't do this with my newer Prowler because the rudder mount is on top and bottom.


-Allen


 

anything