Before I Over-complcate Transporting a Kayak...

It would keep the end of the kayak up about nose high, wouldn't it?  If the driver behind me - the one from out of state who has never been in Oregon before - thinks the kayak will come through their windshield, they might pay more attention.

They also pay more attention when you drive slower than the posted speed limit. Basically it makes the whole vehicle the driving hazard and not just the thing poking out the back. You can also be a little funny and put in small letters "If you can read this you are too close." If that doesn't keep them off the back, then they would have hit you regardless.
 

I love it  Trade in your Nissan for a motor home 

Had one.  Sold it when we discovered mold on the steering wheel (!).  I've regretted selling it several times since then, but no, I don't think that's the answer.   

They also pay more attention when you drive slower than the posted speed limit.

In my experience, NOT.  At least, not on US 101 in southern Oregon.

Go check out the conclusion of my Truck Rack thread. Aluminum ladder rack in the bed, no weight on the roof, no drilling.

I had read that thread but you were so concerned that someone would run off with the rack that I didn't think about it as much as I could have.  How'd you solve that concern?

I put a drop of Red Loctite on the threads before tightening the nuts.

If I want to remove, I will have to heat the nut with a soldering iron for a few minutes, then apply a persuader wrench.

Not something thats any easy-on/easy-off, but that is fine with me.

Since each corner post has 2 j-bolts, I only loctited one at each corner.

Okay, that makes sense.  Thanks.  I like that yours is aluminum construction, but the one problem I can think of (overthinking again) is that the bed is 54 inches long and so too would the rack be 54 inches between supports, leaving me with more overhanging each end than what's supported on the rack.

Or is that a problem for trips less than 100 miles and not on an Interstate?

I have a PA14 and haul it in a SUV.  I use a tbar and two PVC pipes that are set under the gunnal.  Read it in a Hobie Forum that lead me to the DIY PVC Kayak Projects.   I have taken it on I-5 and ferry and have had no problems.

Okay, that makes sense.  Thanks.  I like that yours is aluminum construction, but the one problem I can think of (overthinking again) is that the bed is 54 inches long and so too would the rack be 54 inches between supports, leaving me with more overhanging each end than what's supported on the rack.

Or is that a problem for trips less than 100 miles and not on an Interstate?

54" = 4'6".  I would let it hang over the back by, say, 3'. That's 7'6". So you have 5'6" going forward from the back of the truck bed. On a crew cab pickup that probably puts the nose about where your windshield is.

No problem AT ALL. You will want bow and stern lines to your tow hooks or whatever is there. And a flag on the part sticking out the back.

Yeah, overthinking. This may help: 

I have a 2012 Nissan Frontier (4 door).  Bought mine used and it has a sliding track system with tie downs.  The bed is short for my 14 foot Hobie Pro Angler but with a bed extender (I use the BooneDox T-Bone) it works great.  I fish about 4 days a week and have taken it on long road trips to Oregon and Idaho with no problems.    A strap or two on the bed extender secures things and I run a strap through a couple of RAM base mounts on the kayak for added security. 

Tinker let me see if I can make this easier for you, but it might sting a little. 

I don't think you are over-thinking this at all. 
What I do see is that you are under-thinking this completely and instead you are relying on others to think this through for you. 

You have a problem and you want to solve it.  (This works for most problems)

First you have to look at the situation and see what aspects you have control of.
Write these down.

Then you have to look at it and see what aspects that you don't have control of.
Write these down.

Using your two lists, you can start putting ideas in motion.
Write these down so you can visualize them easier as you come to your conclusion.

It can result in an easy, complicated, cheap, expensive, solution or any combination under the sun. 
So, once you have all of your factors in front of you, make a decision and go with it.  It may not be all glitter and marshmallows in the end, but it will be what works for YOU. 

Look at what you have and decide what you have control of, or not.
Something has to give.

You are attached to your truck.
You'r truck has a short bed and a weak roof.
You are worried about rust if holes are drilled.
You are worried about other drivers behind you.
You have a 13.6' kayak.
You don't want a trailer.
You haven't researched deep enough into the ladder rack system.

I wish there was an EASY button for things like this, but only you can decide on which factors in your problem will have to give to allow you to haul a kayak to the water.   Nobody here can give a perfect solution that meets all of YOUR needs/wants/likes while going round and round with ideas and you poke holes in each one. 

Once you go with a plan, and use it for a bit there is a really good possibility that it will need tweaked and changed over time as you work with it.  Happens to everyone.

I have a PA14 and haul it in a SUV.  I use a tbar and two PVC pipes that are set under the gunnal.  Read it in a Hobie Forum that lead me to the DIY PVC Kayak Projects.   I have taken it on I-5 and ferry and have had no problems.

I saw a kayak being hauled on a T-bar on top of a ladder strapped to the T-bar.  Interesting.

Tinker let me see if I can make this easier for you, but it might sting a little. 

I try to never swat at things that sting me.  I don't think I'll make an exception just for you.

Thanks.  The list idea is a good one, and - as always - I appreciate everything you tell me.  Except the "go to Goodwill" suggestions.  We have a pitiful Goodwill store here...