Kayak Cart for Rough Terrain?

Wheeleez are NOT made in the USA.  They claim to be designed in the USA, and that the tire material is of USA origin, but the carts are definitely made in China.  The 20mm tube diameter also makes me question just how "designed in the USA" they really are. 

Wheeleez is the US store front for imported Chinese goods.  If you don't believe it, here's their contact info from their website.

I like to buy US-made stuff when I can, but nobody in the USA is making wheels this good that I know of, and if they were I don't think we peasants could afford them. 

Since I'm in the manufacturing business in the US of A, and (have been for over 30 years) I just wanted to comment that we have been using metric measurements (and metric material) as our standard for at least 15 years. i'm not in the consumer market, so I can't speak to pricing on consumer items, but 80% of the machines I build end up in - wait for it - China! US manufacturing is not dead, and it won't die. We have a Chinese branch, so I am familiar with Chinese manufacturing, and I can assure you the US still offers a lot of advantages over any other country...

Wheeleez are NOT made in the USA.  They claim to be designed in the USA, and that the tire material is of USA origin, but the carts are definitely made in China.  The 20mm tube diameter also makes me question just how "designed in the USA" they really are. 

Wheeleez is the US store front for imported Chinese goods.  If you don't believe it, here's their contact info from their website.

I like to buy US-made stuff when I can, but nobody in the USA is making wheels this good that I know of, and if they were I don't think we peasants could afford them. 

Since I'm in the manufacturing business in the US of A, and (have been for over 30 years) I just wanted to comment that we have been using metric measurements (and metric material) as our standard for at least 15 years. i'm not in the consumer market, so I can't speak to pricing on consumer items, but 80% of the machines I build end up in - wait for it - China! US manufacturing is not dead, and it won't die. We have a Chinese branch, so I am familiar with Chinese manufacturing, and I can assure you the US still offers a lot of advantages over any other country...

Wheeleez carts are kind of a weird mash-up of unit systems.  The wheels themselves are measured in cm, and the frame materials are nominal metric sizes, but the bearing sizes are given in SAE units.  Anyway, my point wasn't really about the pro's and con's of offshore manufacturing.  I was just trying to dispel the rumor that "they're made in the USA too. ", since a few people seemed to be pretty excited about that. 

Go wander through a "Made in Oregon" store.  Flip over a product, or open a cover and see just where it was actually made.  You may be surprised.  Or not.   

C-Tug......I love mine might get a little difficult on the rocks but the tires won't go flat and it breaks down to fit in the hull.

I'll second the C-Tug for rough terrain.   The only qualm is I'm still working out a way to keep the strap that wraps over the top of the kayak from sliding on the Outback.   On the Big Tuna the paddle notch is a perfect place.

I use a similar homemade cart and have pvc rod holder extensions in the rear hobie holders. The extensions are a good place to strap around as they stop the cart from slipping back. Works for me anyway.

If the straps are assembled and tightened correctly they Will NOT slip! Anyone that has a C-tug and has trouble with the straps slipping really needs to re-visit the detailed instructions how to piece together and assemble the straps and how to use the Camlock (leverlock) buckle to get the strap TIGHT. Please notice how the kayak strap is tensioned at the buckle. Check out the video instructions here:
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The problem isn't the buckles slipping.  Or the straps coming loose.   The issue is the straps sliding down the kayak allowing the cart to move under the boat.  PVC in the rod holder sounds like a good idea (simple and cheap).  On the Jacksons the paddle keeper notch in the gunwales is perfect.

C-Tug......I love mine might get a little difficult on the rocks but the tires won't go flat and it breaks down to fit in the hull.

I'll second the C-Tug for rough terrain.   The only qualm is I'm still working out a way to keep the strap that wraps over the top of the kayak from sliding on the Outback.   On the Big Tuna the paddle notch is a perfect place.

I use a similar homemade cart and have pvc rod holder extensions in the rear hobie holders. The extensions are a good place to strap around as they stop the cart from slipping back. Works for me anyway.

If the straps are assembled and tightened correctly they Will NOT slip! Anyone that has a C-tug and has trouble with the straps slipping really needs to re-visit the detailed instructions how to piece together and assemble the straps and how to use the Camlock (leverlock) buckle to get the strap TIGHT. Please notice how the kayak strap is tensioned at the buckle. Check out the video instructions here:
<snip>

The problem isn't the buckles slipping.  Or the straps coming loose.   The issue is the straps sliding down the kayak allowing the cart to move under the boat.  PVC in the rod holder sounds like a good idea (simple and cheap).  On the Jacksons the paddle keeper notch in the gunwales is perfect.

Another option I have found effective is to have some 1/2” dia rope in a loop tied on each side of the cart frame, long enough to reach the bow when the cart is in position under the kayak, I then wrap the end of the loop and the bow handle of the kayak together, then when you pull the kayak you are pulling it mainly from the bow handle but the “reins” of the cart prevent it from sliding back. Now if you are launching over rough terrain you may still need a strap to stop your kayak from bouncing out of position but all my launches are fairly even so this can work for me without the strap.

Loving my boondocks landing gear.

Looks like a bit of a thread necro, but Padlelogic's Trail Trekker cart line was designed for rough/rocky terrain.

Thank you, counselor.  It's never too late.

A disadvantage of the Paddlelogic Trail Treker cart is that it appears to be designed to attach near the stern of a kayak, so you end up supporting a lot more weight when hauling a kayak than you would if the trailer could be attached near the center of the kayak.

I have been following a guy who is retracing Lewis and Clark's route from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean.  He hiked the 600 miles from St. Louis to Yankton, SD, he kayaked upstream from Yankton to Three Forks, Montana, he hiked from Three Forks to Orofino, Idaho, and he is currently kayaking from Orofino to the Pacific Ocean.  He has been using a Paddlelogic cart to portage around dams, and for the 15 mile portage around the Great Falls of the Missouri.  He straps a bunch of gear to the rear end of his kayak in an effort to minimize the amount of weight which he has to support when portaging his kayak. The cart seems to be working OK, but I think a cart which can be mounted in the center of a kayak is preferable.

Another disadvantage of the Paddlelogic cart is that it doesn't hold a kayak very high off the ground, so the stern of the kayak tends to drag on the ground.

I like the idea of the boondox landing gear, I would like it more if hobie or an after market co would make one to use in conjunction with an ama kit, doubling up on the use of the ama crossbar. Anyone fabricated anything along these lines?

I like the idea of the boondox landing gear, I would like it more if hobie or an after market co would make one to use in conjunction with an ama kit, doubling up on the use of the ama crossbar. Anyone fabricated anything along these lines?

I like the way you think! It does hold some promise, but...  I wouldn't want the full weight of my kayak and all my gear suspended on the existing ama crossbar mounting hardware. I have mounted mine on Yackattack mounts with geartracks and backing plates which I believe is much stronger than the Hobie design which uses 3/8" well nuts. Then there is the issue of them twisting so a second brace of some sort would be needed. That is unless you put an axle all the way through the crossbar itself and used a taller tire.

The problem isn't the buckles slipping.  Or the straps coming loose.   The issue is the straps sliding down the kayak allowing the cart to move under the boat.

Have to agree with Dark Tuna.  I'm newer to fishing kayaks but have drug sea kayaks lots of places and they are narrow and tapered.  Regardless of how tight the strap around the kayak the cart tends to slide off the back.  A hole drilled through the front of nearly any cart I've seen allows a parachute cord just long enough to reach the carry handles so you can snap it on with a carabiner on each side, more forward or back at your choosing.  The carry handles are strong. Set it on the cart, click the carabiner to the handle, slide it back and hook your around the yak strap on the FRONT half of the cart. The cart is in the same place each time.  The width of the wheel vs sand is another type of factor. Do have to say it's a great video of the trail treker.

I like the idea of the boondox landing gear, I would like it more if hobie or an after market co would make one to use in conjunction with an ama kit, doubling up on the use of the ama crossbar. Anyone fabricated anything along these lines?

I like the way you think! It does hold some promise, but...  I wouldn't want the full weight of my kayak and all my gear suspended on the existing ama crossbar mounting hardware. I have mounted mine on Yackattack mounts with geartracks and backing plates which I believe is much stronger than the Hobie design which uses 3/8" well nuts. Then there is the issue of them twisting so a second brace of some sort would be needed. That is unless you put an axle all the way through the crossbar itself and used a taller tire.

Good point about the weight. Maybe going the other direction, using the Boondox hardware to locate outrigger floats. Although access to the area behind the seat from inside is non existent on my Outback. By the way, could you provide a link to your post if any re: your ama instalation?  I'm searching but your prolific number of posts is slowing the process. HaHa

I like the idea of the boondox landing gear, I would like it more if hobie or an after market co would make one to use in conjunction with an ama kit, doubling up on the use of the ama crossbar. Anyone fabricated anything along these lines?

I like the way you think! It does hold some promise, but...  I wouldn't want the full weight of my kayak and all my gear suspended on the existing ama crossbar mounting hardware. I have mounted mine on Yackattack mounts with geartracks and backing plates which I believe is much stronger than the Hobie design which uses 3/8" well nuts. Then there is the issue of them twisting so a second brace of some sort would be needed. That is unless you put an axle all the way through the crossbar itself and used a taller tire.

Good point about the weight. Maybe going the other direction, using the Boondox hardware to locate outrigger floats. Although access to the area behind the seat from inside is non existent on my Outback. By the way, could you provide a link to your post if any re: your ama instalation?  I'm searching but your prolific number of posts is slowing the process. HaHa

Yup. Here ya go: http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=17248.0