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Topic: How to Rig an Anchovy  (Read 7251 times)

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rawkfish

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Here's how I typically rig an anchovy for targeting salmon out on the salt. This method has been really successful for me with both Chinook and coho and is usually one of my go-to rigs when I start a day on the water. Hope this helps!

                
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dberd

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Excellent,thanks Jeff. I gotta start using the bobber stop....works without it,but I'm sure that helps with a fresh unbrined bait in warmer waters. And definitely going to try the twist tie for a breakaway...simple ,effective and free!
" History shows, again and again, how nature points out the folly of man"  BOC


onefish

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Good stuff!! Thanks.
“Out of the water I am nothing” Duke Kahanamoku


henney

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Would you say you're running the Protroll/short leader program most of the time now as opposed to the inline flasher/long leader?


rawkfish

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Would you say you're running the Protroll/short leader program most of the time now as opposed to the inline flasher/long leader?

I still run the triangle flashers in the ocean, but not as much as the wideroll style. I still play around with leader length regardless of the flasher style I use, but I would rarely go longer than 40" in the ocean. The fish just aren't nearly as skiddish in the ocean as they are in smaller water.
                
2011 Angler Of The Year
1st Place 2011 PDX Bass Yakin' Classic
"Fishing relaxes me.  It's like yoga except I still get to kill something."  - Ron Swanson


Noob Noob

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Here's how I typically rig an anchovy for targeting salmon out on the salt. This method has been really successful for me with both Chinook and coho and is usually one of my go-to rigs when I start a day on the water. Hope this helps!


Great vid and thanks!  :D

Just ordered some of those sure spin things online along with some metallic colored twist ties. I was curious as to how a break-away system helps increase your hookup to catch ratio. Is it because of drag or does the dodging motion create slack that allows the fish to spit the hook out?

I also noticed you use a cannon ball weight. Are these better than inline weights when trolling? My first time in the salt was just a couple weeks ago. I was using one of those bomb-shaped sinkers with a sliding swivel.
"It's OK to eat fish because they don't have any feelings."  ~ Kurt Cobain


rawkfish

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Here's how I typically rig an anchovy for targeting salmon out on the salt. This method has been really successful for me with both Chinook and coho and is usually one of my go-to rigs when I start a day on the water. Hope this helps!


Great vid and thanks!  :D

Just ordered some of those sure spin things online along with some metallic colored twist ties. I was curious as to how a break-away system helps increase your hookup to catch ratio. Is it because of drag or does the dodging motion create slack that allows the fish to spit the hook out?

I also noticed you use a cannon ball weight. Are these better than inline weights when trolling? My first time in the salt was just a couple weeks ago. I was using one of those bomb-shaped sinkers with a sliding swivel.

The wide roll style of flashers do create a significant amount of drag when fighting a salmon, so the breakaway setup takes most of that drag away once one end of the flasher is disconnected.  I used to lose about half the fish I fought with these flashers until I started using the breakaway, then my numbers were back up to what they were before.

The cannonball weights spin the least of any other weight when attached to a weight slider.  Less spin means fewer kinked up dropper lines, so less tangles to deal with.
« Last Edit: July 19, 2019, 10:27:35 AM by rawkfish »
                
2011 Angler Of The Year
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"Fishing relaxes me.  It's like yoga except I still get to kill something."  - Ron Swanson


bsteves

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Just so you all don’t fall for it later on when Rawkfish offers up a separate video on how to rig a herring for salmon... it’s the exact same method as the anchovies.  :)

Great video Jeff!

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INSAYN

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Your DickSS is cracked. 

Just saying....  ;D
 

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dberd

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 So you're using a Dremel to remove the barb now? I learned from you and Spot to break the point off and leave the hump at least to gain a slight advantage over purely barbless. It doesn't get any easier than snapping it off, or bending....any reasoning?
" History shows, again and again, how nature points out the folly of man"  BOC


rawkfish

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Just so you all don’t fall for it later on when Rawkfish offers up a separate video on how to rig a herring for salmon... it’s the exact same method as the anchovies.  :)

Great video Jeff!

Why you gotta go and ruin my plans B?!

Your DickSS is cracked. 
Just saying....  ;D

It'll fish.

So you're using a Dremel to remove the barb now? I learned from you and Spot to break the point off and leave the hump at least to gain a slight advantage over purely barbless. It doesn't get any easier than snapping it off, or bending....any reasoning?

That does work just fine, most of the time. There are plenty of times when it doesn't break and just bends down, or breaks off a little bit too much for my liking. The Dremel is much more precise. Sometimes it's the little things that can make a difference.
                
2011 Angler Of The Year
1st Place 2011 PDX Bass Yakin' Classic
"Fishing relaxes me.  It's like yoga except I still get to kill something."  - Ron Swanson


pmmpete

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So you're using a Dremel to remove the barb now? I learned from you and Spot to break the point off and leave the hump at least to gain a slight advantage over purely barbless. It doesn't get any easier than snapping it off, or bending....any reasoning?
Somebody told me that game wardens may slide a piece of cord over the location of a bent or broken barb, and if the stub snags any threads from the cord, the warden will give you a ticket for using a barbed hook to fish for salmon.  Can anybody confirm this rumor?

I bring a pair of vice grips and a round chain saw sharpening file with me on trips where I may be salmon fishing, so I can completely remove any traces of the barbs from barbed hooks.  This works well.


onefish

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So not true.  Just make best effort to pinch barb.  There’s a barbed hook, and there’s not.
« Last Edit: July 19, 2019, 07:57:13 PM by onefish »
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INSAYN

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So you're using a Dremel to remove the barb now? I learned from you and Spot to break the point off and leave the hump at least to gain a slight advantage over purely barbless. It doesn't get any easier than snapping it off, or bending....any reasoning?
Somebody told me that game wardens may slide a piece of cord over the location of a bent or broken barb, and if the stub snags any threads from the cord, the warden will give you a ticket for using a barbed hook to fish for salmon.  Can anybody confirm this rumor?

I bring a pair of vice grips and a round chain saw sharpening file with me on trips where I may be salmon fishing, so I can completely remove any traces of the barbs from barbed hooks.  This works well.

Not in Oregon, they are too lazy to bother doing that. 

You're thinking Kalifornia.  I heard they will go so far as to drag a cotton ball across it and if it snags you earn a ticket.  So, when I fish in Kalifornia I just cut the hook off just below the eye.  Don't want me a ticket.   ;D
 

"If I was ever stranded on a beach with only hand lotion...You're the guy I'd want with me!"   Polyangler, 2/27/15


Mojo Jojo

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I believe it says if the barb point is touching the shank your good.... but I’M TOO lazy to check.



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