T13 Shortcomings

I just tightened the bolts on my rear holders on 2 yaks.  I can't believe how loose they were.

-Allen

I did the same this weekend. I think I managed a good 3-4 turns on each screw before they got even moderately tight.

Yup, those are coming out of mine.  Going gooped in place washers, and rivets for sure!

I'll have to see if they loosen up again, but I'm pretty happy with how tight they are now.   Maybe the installer at the OK factory was a bit shy with the screwdriver.

I had a similar leak problem with the hatches...My rod pod is always seeming to be warped in some way...I was out with a friend the other day that customized his rodpod by removing the factory lid and replacing it with white Heavy duty plastic (plastic cutting board) material...He routered the underside to fit around the contours of the rod pod and then added a scotty base to the bowside of the top strap/clip so as to help hold it in place...the edges only overhang in the leg well like a 1/4 inch...He further sealed the lid because he didnt use it much...His Trident deck looks clean and much more roomy then mine and Im considering doing the same customizing...
I will post pics if you wanna see...

Is he using the factory straps to hold the lid on, or did he fashion some other type of hold downs?   

I like that idea.  If that stuff wasn't so spendy, I'd say get a 1"-3/4" thick chunk of that UHMW, or HDPE and CNC out the bulk of the backside - dropping the thickness down to say 3/8", and then machine a groove further than that to accept a seal.   The thickness of the material at the groove could be 1/4".  Keep the outter 1/8" - 3/16" the full thickness of the original material.

In the end,  you got a much stiffer platform for side saddling, as well as a cutting board for beach side filet'n.

My wheels are a turn'n, thanks! 

The best pic I got of the final deal is this one though sorry...Yes the factory straps are used...Just shortened..

Has anyone cut out and created anything in the well to allow for access to the inerds of the back area on the tridents?

Has anyone cut out and created anything in the well to allow for access to the inerds of the back area on the tridents?

Not yet, but I've been eye'n that round bucket recess back there, trying to think of a way to put a big hole there with a lid.   

Has anyone cut out and created anything in the well to allow for access to the inerds of the back area on the tridents?

I put in a 4" round deck hatch at the rear of the tankwell.

-Allen

http://www.harmonygear.com/product/203807/5INCH_HATCH_KIT/_/5%22_Hatch_Kit
I was thinking about this one but then just cutting the bag off ...Whatcha think?

I wanna put them on both ends to access the whole thing...I wasnt able to install brackets I needed back there for stabalizers so I was thinking about chopping holes
What are the 4"ers you used called? Who makes em?

I wanna put them on both ends to access the whole thing...I wasnt able to install brackets I needed back there for stabalizers so I was thinking about chopping holes
What are the 4"ers you used called? Who makes em?

I just used a 4" round deck hatch ... commonly available.  I put it in at the end in order to try to reach the backside flat spots at the sides of the tankwell, to do exactly what you are trying to do, install Scotty mounts for stabilizers.  However, I couldn't reach them.      I don't think it was flat enough at the front of the tankwell to install a hatch.

I ended up putting mounts for the stabilizers at the front, although I don't think I like them there.  Will likely try to put them in the back using the flaired rivets.

-Allen

Aight for those of you waiting patiently for pictures of my lid tweak. 


The extra foam rubber gasket.





Just the bungee.  I like it this way while in calm water.  The lid isn't coming off, and water probably won't be an issue if I were to just roll over while sitting still. 




Bungee holds the tackle container with authority.


I reversed one of the straps so I can attach them together out of the way.



Then there is the long center one.  Note the loop I added after the bolt down.  This is if I wanted to lash something to it for some reason.   



All three straps are secured, and that lid isn't going anywhere.  I also put the bungee in place (mostly to just put it somewhere).



There are big washers on both sides of the attachment points, and gooped.





Just for giggles, I lashed down a spare paddle.  Interesting option. 

Great ideas guys!


Thanks for the feedback!

I had no idea that so many people were having leak issues on the T's RP's. Just some thoughts. Maybe since the RP is so long (structurally weaker than a round hatch) and it's located in the middle of the yak, that the flex of the hull when it goes over bumps actually warps open gaps? That would be the exact time splashing would occur. Maybe the problem could be in the structural integrity of the rim of the RP? Or maybe the opposite. Maybe the RP and lid need to be allowed to flex w/ the hull to keep it all tight?

W/ these leaks how much water is actually getting in? (I know your answer Spot) Is it enough to be a hazard?

Z

Zee your right...When I recieved my t15 and was back out west I would sit on it a bunch while holding fish for pics(190 lbs)...After the sun(not a whole lot up on the coast) and a little bit of ass action it was warped and easily flexed...Cutting this hole out of the boat and not designing a more stable surround makes it a hazzard...As I came in on a rough beach break that had me taking on water for maybe three swells the warped RP filled me 1/3 full of water...i paddled hard and made it in but had to get help to drain the sucker...Youd think it would have some extra stabalizing pieces designed in it somehow...Im not blaming the company for 100% of that cause I ate my fair share of junk food while fishing...