Reinforced Rod Pod

Searching around I found an old article about a guy using 1/4" King Starboard to reinforce his rod pod on the underside.  His main purpose was to accommodate a rod holder.  But my question is has anyone else done something similar?  Would it help with the sealing issues and maybe make it better for sitting on side saddle. 

I've also been playing around with the idea of bolting a cutting board to the top of the rod pod for cutting bait and improving rigidity.  Any thoughts?

Something like this?

The best pic I got of the final deal is this one though sorry...Yes the factory straps are used...Just shortened..

WTB in Black!!!

The guy making those could easily sell them. I know atleast 3 guys who would buy one in a heart beat.

Anyone know where to get this material in full sheets?  I'm tempted to apply the 6x10 cnc mill to the project....

never mind, already found it.  Not too bad, can have it delivered to my location. I just need a paper pattern (preferably pencil rubbing) of the actual hole, and an indication of any penetrations diameter and location. Now, who's the first victim?

Did I miss where in the OP the material was mentioned.  I'm thinking 1/2 or 3/4" Starboard would work.  Now all i have to do is find the skills to cut and rout lol.  But like I said if anyone can perfect this and produce it in black my wallet is open.

never mind, already found it.  Not too bad, can have it delivered to my location. I just need a paper pattern (preferably pencil rubbing) of the actual hole, and an indication of any penetrations diameter and location. Now, who's the first victim?

Me!!!

Pencil rubbing?  Why not just the actual dimensions or a mechanical drawing.

-Allen

Dude if you can ramp this up you'll be my new favorite person what exactly do you need from one of us with trident or does polepole have it covered?

Mechanical drawing in .dwg, .dxf, .eps or any of many other vector formats would be just dandy (just no Gcode, I'll do that part). I don't have a 'yak handy to double check penetrations for anchoring straps or anything of the sort.  I also don't have dimension to see how many I can fit on a sheet of the material (after the prototype, of course.)  I have to check on availability of colors as well. I was quoted the cost of the "cutting board" material (with the "rough" surface) and didn't get into too many details. Personally, I'd go with white.  Less likely to suffer thermal expansion, and I like the idea of blood stains! It's actually in stock at the distributor in Seattle and I could have it in a day, once I pull the trigger.  I'd be using the 1/2" thick stock, however I can get it in 3/4" and 1" as well.

The main reason behind a pencil rubbing is to be able to make a pen plot of the finished production file and set one on top of the other on our 6x20 light table.  Nothing like comparing them that way.

Support your laid off workers you americans...lol...The guys that make these are in Detroit This area needs your help...The hub of laid off workers can make some sweet kayak fishing stuff...I got hook ups for custom designed wire caps, bases for mounting anything really in machined lightweight aluminum powdercoated and pretty with paint colors that would pimp out your colored yak...If you want stuff made and sent to you let me know...your supporting a laid off worker...

If the guys arent creating lightweight stuff for cars and motorcycles then why not for pimping our stuff out? Alot of guys here are laid off and looking to do custom work...real cheap to pimp out your yak these days...To bling out a ram mount with a base for whatever you have your looking at 30$....for wire caps your looking at 15-20$...instead of cheap plastic 4$ garbage that looks like you just installed something out of the toilet section of the hardware store why not get something made for a little more? make your yak look sweet?

The main reason behind a pencil rubbing is to be able to make a pen plot of the finished production file and set one on top of the other on our 6x20 light table.  Nothing like comparing them that way.

I won't be able to get access to any of my Tridents for at least a couple weeks.  If someone else could make a rubbing, I'd appreciate that.  I'll also check with the factory if they can help with mechanical drawings.

I'd like to see a hinged version ... hard attached at the front with a hinge near the front.  When I access the rod pod, where to put it while I'm digging around underneath is always a concern.  Adding a hinge means it can stay right where it is.  Any ideas on that?

-Allen

It's gonna be a busy weekend for me but I'll see if I can get a rubbing done tomorrow.  Does it matter what kind of paper or anything.  I'd have to mail it off to you as well.

I'd like to see a hinged version ... hard attached at the front with a hinge near the front.  When I access the rod pod, where to put it while I'm digging around underneath is always a concern.  Adding a hinge means it can stay right where it is.  Any ideas on that?

-Allen

Allen,
try these links for hinges; http://www.monroeengineering.com/hinges/

 http://www.sugatsune.com/products/productss.cfm?CATID=7&SUBCATID=8

http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_ViewProducts.asp?Cat=901

http://www.sdplastics.com/acrylicpianohinges.html

and, maybe this one but not sure;
http://www.abcplastics.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=32&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&cid=10032

i'm liking the idea of a spring loaded hinge at teh front of the hatch, like right at the apex of the curve, but may have to settle for a "living tri fold hinge" that would attach to the top of the front of the hatch and to the deck just below the lower hatch coaming..
[WR]