Scotty Depthmaster mounting

I am considering the purchase of a Scotty Depthmaster downrigger.  Thanks, Zee, for the downrigging articles.  I like the line counter feature over the more basic Laketroller.  What are the thoughts on using a Scotty gimbal mount in one of the flush rod holders on the T13?  I have no experience whatsoever with downriggers, but think the drag should not be too much considering the ball won't be over 5#.  I would replace the cable with 50# Power-Pro braid and figure if I snag the bottom the braid breaks before the flush mount.

Your going to need a bigger boat!!!

When I snag with 40# test in my Scotty rod holder, my boat stops.      

I think unless you're paddling like a madman and not paying attention, breaking something shouldn't be a problem.  Trolling is generally slow anyway.

I am considering the purchase of a Scotty Depthmaster downrigger.  Thanks, Zee, for the downrigging articles.  I like the line counter feature over the more basic Laketroller.  What are the thoughts on using a Scotty gimbal mount in one of the flush rod holders on the T13?  I have no experience whatsoever with downriggers, but think the drag should not be too much considering the ball won't be over 5#.  I would replace the cable with 50# Power-Pro braid and figure if I snag the bottom the braid breaks before the flush mount.

The Depthmaster is a big downrigger (ie. difficult to handle) and expensive. Trying out the Lake Troller could be a good way to find out if downrigging is for you. If you're all for it, the gimbal mount seems to work. I can't say for sure since I've never used one. For downrigging in the sound I do suggest that you have a rudder on your yak if you don't already. The side pull of the DR and current will make you paddle almost exclusively on one side. If you snag bottom the braid won't break. This is a dangerous part of downrigging and makes it an advanced form of kayak fishing. You need a line that's going to be able to hold heavy weights against current but you want it to be easy enough to cut in the event that it does snag.

I would replace the cable with 50# Power-Pro braid and figure if I snag the bottom the braid breaks before the flush mount.

OK's rod holders have shown to pull free so careful. Ask Spot.

On snagging, you need to have a safety knife in a place where you can get to if fast. When a DR snags the force will just about flip you if there's enough current/wind. Pulling to free the DR just makes it worse. Use a snubber in between the mainline and DR ball. It'll cushion and force and be more forgiving.

Lastly, start w/ a light DR ball and work you way up. There's so much going on DR fishing going straight to a 5# ball will cause a lot of problems.

Your going to need a bigger boat!!!

Is a 16' Hobie Adventure big enough??

I think unless you're paddling like a madman and not paying attention, breaking something shouldn't be a problem.  Trolling is generally slow anyway.

Add current and wind you'd be surprised at how things stress out quickly. Spot broke his  flushmount on a snag when riding his T13.

Z

The Depthmaster is a big downrigger (ie. difficult to handle) and expensive. Trying out the Lake Troller could be a good way to find out if downrigging is for you. If you're all for it, the gimbal mount seems to work. I can't say for sure since I've never used one. For downrigging in the sound I do suggest that you have a rudder on your yak if you don't already. The side pull of the DR and current will make you paddle almost exclusively on one side. If you snag bottom the braid won't break. This is a dangerous part of downrigging and makes it an advanced form of kayak fishing. You need a line that's going to be able to hold heavy weights against current but you want it to be easy enough to cut in the event that it does snag.

I have a rudder.  I'll compare the Depthmaster with the Laketroller at Outdoor Emporium next week.

OK's rod holders have shown to pull free so careful. Ask Spot. 

I remember the post and photos.  This is one reason I am asking.

On snagging, you need to have a safety knife in a place where you can get to if fast. When a DR snags the force will just about flip you if there's enough current/wind. Pulling to free the DR just makes it worse. Use a snubber in between the mainline and DR ball. It'll cushion and force and be more forgiving.

Knife on the PFD.

Lastly, start w/ a light DR ball and work you way up. There's so much going on DR fishing going straight to a 5# ball will cause a lot of problems.

Gotcha.  1# or 2# to start.

Thanks

I think unless you're paddling like a madman and not paying attention, breaking something shouldn't be a problem.  Trolling is generally slow anyway.

Add current and wind you'd be surprised at how things stress out quickly. Spot broke his  flushmount on a snag when riding his T13.

Z

My mistake.  I was thinking with a freshwater lake mindset.  I know I'm not ready to add saltwater currents into the mix.

My mistake.  I was thinking with a freshwater lake mindset.  I know I'm not ready to add saltwater currents into the mix.

For the record I am a newbie, a newbie to boat fishing and a newbie to any sort of kayak experience.  It's crazy but true, I'd never been in a kayak until I got my T13 wet this spring. 

I was thinking of your comment while off shore of Richmond Beach yesterday afternoon, in very calm waters and virtually no wind.  At the time except for the size it wasn't much different from a lake.  Deeper, yes, colder (~60F), yes, some fun gentle wake swells, but this is the gentlest time of year out on the salt and not a bad time to bust your cherry provided you have practiced your remounts and you MUST DRESS PROPERLY.  I saw an older guy yesterday in a short stubby blue SOT kayak slowly paddling in while I was going out.  We chatted briefly about 1/4 mile off shore.  He was wearing sandals, shorts, a light shirt and a wide brimmed hat.  He said he had paddled out to mid-channel which is almost 4 miles wide!  He had been over a mile offshore and essentially naked.  He was wearing a PFD so his cold lifeless body would have likely been recovered.  I pointed him toward this forum.

May I suggest you go out and target flounder one day soon?  It is a fine near shore fishery.  Sandy bottom, 50-100' of water, drop just about any salt water GULP! on a 2-3oz lead jig head.  Limit is 15 with no size limit.  This will give you experience catching fish from a yak and you will learn a lot from it.  You don't really need a net for flounder, but using one may be a good experience.  Next time I do this I am not keeping anything under 15".  Filleting a smaller flounder is tedious, does not net much food, and seems a waste of potential larger fish (in a few years).

OK's rod holders have shown to pull free so careful. Ask Spot. 

I remember the post and photos.  This is one reason I am asking.

I believe this is due to the well nuts not being tightened enough.  I use the laketroller with 4# balls in a gimbal mount and have not had any problems with it.  I now check my well nuts regularly.

-Allen

I believe this is due to the well nuts not being tightened enough.  I use the laketroller with 4# balls in a gimbal mount and have not had any problems with it.  I now check my well nuts regularly.

Mine are riveted.

I've pulled rivets with my downrigger with a 4lbs ball and I'm pretty sure the moment arm is shorter than the Scotty Lake Troller or the Depthmaster. Wellnuts are good, backing is better!

I've pulled rivets with my downrigger with a 4lbs ball and I'm pretty sure the moment arm is shorter than the Scotty Lake Troller or the Depthmaster. Wellnuts are good, backing is better!

I can't reach the underside of the rod holder through the rod pod so I don't know if they used the wide-flair rivets.  Likewise I can't proactively replace the rivets with backing and stainless hardware.  I need 3" longer arms. 

One way to get the advantages of a line counter on a Lake Troller downrigger without a line counter is to mark the line with color, black mark every 10', blue mark every 50', red mark every 100'.  If I want to let out 170' of line, release until I see red/blue/black/black.  Color sticks very poorly to braid.  Anyone have suggestions for marking?  Perhaps acetone diluted nail polish? 

I think the recommended course of action from the first article about downrigger fishing from a yak suggested using your depthfinder to see how far down your weight was.  

You should see a mark from your downrigger ball on the fishfinder and keep letting line out until it shows the right depth on the fishfinder.

One crank of my Laketroller is about 1 foot.  I don't worry about the precise depth because your ball blows back and you lose all precision anyway.  Speeding up or slowing down can take your ball on a 20-30 foot swing.

-Allen

Yep, What they said.

actual depth = fish finder and speed

Marking the line is a very good idea, but I would not use anything other than a marker (mfg recommendation).  It lasts a good while and then you can just do it again.  I use a sort of roman numeral notation with long and short marks every 5' or so and you can see it in the water or on the drum for in between adjustments.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.  They have been very helpful.  I am now reconsidering whether at this time, a downrigger is a good idea.  I may just concentrate on other fishing methods for the rest of this season.  On the other hand if I do go with a downrigger I will likely take the advice given here and go for the smaller, simpler Lake Troller.  With the vertical drop noted on the FF, and a fair angle estimate between downrigger line and water, a close estimate could be made of actual depth (we are ignoring line bow :-)