knots for heavy line

I've tied 30# mono to 20# braid with an Albright Knot.


http://www.animatedknots.com/albright/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

Rav: Great links, thank you,
holt

I've tied 30# mono to 20# braid with an Albright Knot.


http://www.animatedknots.com/albright/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

Rav: Great links, thank you,
holt

Glad I could help

Thanks. I'm familiar with the Albright Knot. I use it on all my fly reels to tie my backing onto the back end of my flyline. I give it a thin coating of Loon UV Knotsense to lock it up, and smooth it down.
I'll practice tying on some 20# mono leader to the 25# braid when I get it. I don't want the leader to be heavier than the mainline in case i get snagged and have to break off.

If 20# mono proves too light for Ling Cod(gets bitten thru or abraded on the rocks), I'll bump the leader up to 30#test  and maybe go with a 20# "breakage section" in between the 25# braid and 30# mono leader (30# for a Ling "bite tippet"). I'll work something out that seems right.
The Lings regularly busted me off in the rocks or cut the line with their teeth when I was using 12# Maxima mono on my spinning gear.

I'll be using swivels on the terminal end of the 15# braid on my surf perch rig, as the leaders are only 15" and 20" long (I use two hooks/leaders). (I use a 3/4 oz. egg sinker, 10# leader and size 4 hooks when casting from the beach for the surf perch).

Thanks. I'm familiar with the Albright Knot. I use it on all my fly reels to tie my backing onto the back end of my flyline. I give it a thin coating of Loon UV Knotsense to lock it up, and smooth it down.
I'll practice tying on some 20# mono leader to the 25# braid when I get it. I don't want the leader to be heavier than the mainline in case i get snagged and have to break off.

If 20# mono proves too light for Ling Cod(gets bitten thru or abraded on the rocks), I'll bump the leader up to 30#test  and maybe go with a 20# "breakage section" in between the 25# braid and 30# mono leader (30# for a Ling "bite tippet"). I'll work something out that seems right.
The Lings regularly busted me off in the rocks or cut the line with their teeth when I was using 12# Maxima mono on my spinning gear.

I'll be using swivels on the terminal end of the 15# braid on my surf perch rig, as the leaders are only 15" and 20" long (I use two hooks/leaders). (I use a 3/4 oz. egg sinker, 10# leader and size 4 hooks when casting from the beach for the surf perch).

Probably not a bad idea, but I believe that lb of braid is a conservative #, while mono is a liberal #. Back in my high school days I was a bit off a geek for the science fair, but I always tried to work my interests into my projects. Long story short, I did a fishing line strength test on different brands of mono line (braid wasn't an option then). I bought several brands of mono ranging from cheap generics to pricey name brands all in 12lb. Tied the same knots on the same lengths of line, attached one end to a peg, and the other to a pull force gauge. I did this all over a yard stick clamped to the work bench to monitor stretch. Oh, and I repeated this 3 times per line to get an average. I found the name brands to have less stretch and break closer to if not over their lb test ratings, but across the board their #'s were pretty liberal. I have not repeated this with braid. I'm hoping my daughter will want to do this test when the time comes, but in the field I can tell you that it takes a whole lot more pull to break of a snag on 12lb braid, than 12lb mono. Also, when I have to break off a leader, it's usually the knot on the mono side of the line to line that gives way after some heavy pulling (have yet to loose a fish due to this connection).

I use 30# braid for main, and 20# mono or flouro leaders.  I've noticed the flouro (when tied properly) takes a lot more pull to break than the mono.  The only time I ever lost my braid was when I SAW an abrasion in the line, and knew it was coming, or when it snapped at the swivel from abrasion.

Braid is pretty tough stuff, and I love it.

I sometimes use 25-30' of mono mainline after 25# and 50# braid.  This provides a nice stretch when it's appropriate.  Sometimes I'll use the mono as a leader and others I'll tie a swivel to the mono and use a real leader.   I've tried a couple of different knots, uni-to-uni and surgeons, but I think the Albright looks like a much better choice.  Easy to tie, seems secure, and no need to feed a long line through any loops like with a surgeons. 

Thanks!

It's not the vertical part that's the problem, just a good knot to keep the lure on.

yes the line creates drag, but I've learned to compensate with one handed sculling. It keeps it fun, which is why I do it.

I've fished in <3kts with no anchor with no problems keeping the line vertical.

Then tie on a 6'-8' mono leader and you're all set.

Z

I second this. I fish almost exclusively with braid. I tie a 6-8 ft mono lead (# of test depends on application) to my braid with an Albright knot, then just tie and fish as though I were strung with mono. The Albright knot will spool and cast through your guides with no problem. I try to avoid swivels as much as possible.

http://www.animatedknots.com/albright/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

That's how I do it too...

+1

I was also concerned about line shy fish and always tied on a 10' to 30' of 10lb to 18lb fluro as a tippet, but then I got lazy and started tying directly to PP (braid). But that caused it own problems as the braid will tangle with the terminal gear or lure A LOT (should be worst with a fluttering jig).

Now I'm back to tying on a tiny topshot of 20lb to 25lb flouro as its stiff enuf not to foul the terminal tackle. So far so good. It also seems to walk a topwater lure a bit better. uni-uni

Nanook..  I was thinking about your problem with no stretch in the handline and I was thinking you should rig a bungie tied into the hand line to add stretch. If you tied it up like a traditional tuna handline but with smaller diameter bungie  I thing it would work well.  Give you feel for fishing but some give for hook sets. 

I've used florocarbon and it's better for the knots, but doesn't have the stretch that mono has that I need for the handline.
any ideas?

So you use handline to jig from a yak? I'd like to learn more about it. How to rig, pictures, etc. Your advice (or anyone else) would be appreciated.

Nanook..  I was thinking about your problem with no stretch in the handline and I was thinking you should rig a bungie tied into the hand line to add stretch. If you tied it up like a traditional tuna handline but with smaller diameter bungie  I thing it would work well.  Give you feel for fishing but some give for hook sets. 

I'm pretty sure that's how your supposed to use it. Works well for trolling, because all the line is out, and you have a bungee section attached to the boat, looped back with a rubber band closing the loop. When a fish strikes, the rubber band brakes to signal, and all the tension is on the bungee.

For jigging not so good. Most of the time I have a pile of rope on my left as I feed it down to the bottom on my right, very rarely is all the rope out. I'm pulling the rope up and down in with my hand, and with a buzzbomb you don't know anything is there until you start the upward jig motion again and it's heavy and pulling back. It's pretty much a direct link from my hand to the fish, with nothing for leverage and drag but my arm and letting the fish take rope.

Haven't had anything take ALL the line yet. (the 20# floro brakes with hawgs, which is why I tried 40# mono last time, and now need a big line knot) The rope is attached to a winder that's attached to my boat with a coil paddle leash. Should it come to the end of the rope, I should just get towed around while I brace with the paddle. Even the big fish haven't made me feel like they would pull me in. So far the only near capsizes have been from me tugging on a snag or a fish and the braking off and the jerk reaction that follows.

I've been using the "Waaycool" handline, which we sell at Alder Creek now, but it would be super easy to make your own. kite winder + 3mm climbing rope + hardware + leader + lure.

http://www.waaycool.com/wc_kyk_const_price.html

I've used florocarbon and it's better for the knots, but doesn't have the stretch that mono has that I need for the handline.
any ideas?

So you use handline to jig from a yak? I'd like to learn more about it. How to rig, pictures, etc. Your advice (or anyone else) would be appreciated.

It's pretty simple. 70ft of 3mm nylon rope on a kite winder with 10ft of leader of your choice followed by jig of your choice. I've found it easier to get vertical if you have most the line spooled out on one side of the yak and feed it quickly down on the other, as apposed to trying to get to the bottom unwinding off the spool.

Sensitivity is good, as the line is in your hand. It's easy to know when you've hit bottom....start jigging, hook fish, pull line hand over hand onto the opposite side of the boat until you've landed the fish!

I'm still learning myself. I only have a dozen hours or so with it. If I can just get my knots to stick on heavy line, I should be able to hit that next learning curve. Haven't caught anything over 10# yet due to braking leaders....but soon......

the only pictures I've got so far: http://kayakangler.blogspot.com/2009/09/trip-report-kayak-fishing-san-juan.html

I've used florocarbon and it's better for the knots, but doesn't have the stretch that mono has that I need for the handline.
any ideas?

So you use handline to jig from a yak? I'd like to learn more about it. How to rig, pictures, etc. Your advice (or anyone else) would be appreciated.

It's pretty simple. 70ft of 3mm nylon rope on a kite winder with 10ft of leader of your choice followed by jig of your choice. I've found it easier to get vertical if you have most the line spooled out on one side of the yak and feed it quickly down on the other, as apposed to trying to get to the bottom unwinding off the spool.

Sensitivity is good, as the line is in your hand. It's easy to know when you've hit bottom....start jigging, hook fish, pull line hand over hand onto the opposite side of the boat until you've landed the fish!

I'm still learning myself. I only have a dozen hours or so with it. If I can just get my knots to stick on heavy line, I should be able to hit that next learning curve. Haven't caught anything over 10# yet due to braking leaders....but soon......

the only pictures I've got so far: http://kayakangler.blogspot.com/2009/09/trip-report-kayak-fishing-san-juan.html

Thanks for the info & links. Simple & relatively inexpensive. I'm definitely going to break out the buzzbombs & do this. Like to try out kittypus with is setup also. Think I've got a knot that'll work well for jigging with heavy mono, but want to try before I share.

Nanook..  I was thinking about your problem with no stretch in the handline and I was thinking you should rig a bungie tied into the hand line to add stretch. If you tied it up like a traditional tuna handline but with smaller diameter bungie  I thing it would work well.  Give you feel for fishing but some give for hook sets. 

I think the key to the handline is to use outrageously heavy line. The pre-rigged waaycool unit comes with 300# mono...and that's the kayak handline. You don't need give when you don't have to worry about breaking off I guess.

I started with 20# because I wasn't sure how this whole thing would work in a sea kayak in salt water. I was happy to break off at first, but now I'm comfortable enough with it to go for hawgs.

I'm looking forward to putting some of these knots to use. Thanks for everyone's input.

I was actually thinking of having the bungee on the other end of the heavy cord, above your top shot.  If done/tied right it would have little negative drag etc on the use of the line.  Much like the bungees used when trolling for coho in the ocean it gives the hook/fish a cushion from the harsh shock of the main line coming taut under load, which results in keeping the hook from being pulled out of the fishes mouth.

This is way old, but relevant so don't feel bad about bringing it back up front.

Few months back i bought a heavy duty spinning rod for peir and jetty fishing out here... yeh i know, but i gotta make the best of it... What i got was a one piece Diawa Beefstick BFBT701 series, rated 1-5 oz 15-50 lb line.

Wali has seen this rod, and neither of us could bend it very easily. Was waiting and watching for a good deal on a large format spinner to match it and finally during my foray to Savannah two weeks ago, i found the new Diawa Regal Plus 4500BRi bait runner,,,massive spinning reel, intro price under $70.00 and yeh, Bait Runner.

Filled it with #40 Suffix 832, BUT, cant decide what to lash to it. 40 lb flouro? 30 -50 lb mono, what?  will only be about a 6-9 foot leader, but want to keep it a bit heavy becuase of the grouper potential where i'm headed.

started digging through the old knot posts, found this one..  some of the knots are the reason i'm posting...

had thought about using the Yucatan Special.. but dont feel like messing with having to learn to do a Bimini twist first to make the required mainline loop. For sure it would do the job.. time wise,,, ehh not so enthused.

San Diego Jam?  again, interesting and possible, but still want to keep it simple with little time consumed.

Albright Special? Ok now we're talking. Fits my uncomplicated effort and style requisites. Quick, fairly easy... but will it hold up?

If you were rigging a heavy spinner using what i am, which knot would you use?