I need some advice on installing a fish finder?????

I just bought a cude 350 at the Sportmans show last weekend, but looking for some ideas on what's the best way to install it. I'm also looking for advice on what kind of battery should a run with it as well as what hardware do I need? What supplies do I need to install the transducer? I'm also wondering how and where should I mount the battery? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. And Oh ya, its going into a Hobie Outback. I know i'm sounding pretty much clueless, but I dont want to screw this up. Cheers and thank you!
 

Jammer. Suggestion: Just as I found out by asking the same questions:Look at previous threads in the rigging forum and also Texas Kayak Angler.com(look for link on the Hook1.com site). Most times all the info you need is there. Good luck in the
pimping of your yak.

Look up the power draw in the user's manual.  It will likely be listed as milliamps (MA).  Use that to determine the potential running time from a particular power source rated in amp-hours (AH).

For example, 300 MA draw from a 3 AH battery will theoretically provide 10 hours of usage.  3 AH = 3000 MAH, so 3000 MAH/300 MA = 10 H

My rule of thumb, pulled completely out of thin air, is in practice you will realize half the theoretical performance.  If someone actually knows the facts, please speak up. 

You get less performance time than predicted because batteries perform differently under different temperatures, so at least in the winter, your battery isn't working as well.  Aside from that, once on the water, our hulls are generally cooler than outside air since water temps are so low in the NW.

Battery ratings are usually pretty accurate when the battery is brand new.  It's not atypical to get much less after a few discharge/charge cycles.

-Allen

[pdf]http://www.discover-energy.com/files/shared/Discover_temperature_effects_charging.pdf[/pdf]

As far as how you're setting it up, have you had a chance to look at the "foam puck" method or gluing it right to the hull? I've personally been gluing mine to the hull, but you run the risk of having bubbles form in the glue. I've had pretty good success with this method, but it has come off on me once. It's pretty quick to re-do though and it will for sure last you a few years at least. I've been thinking that the next time I mount a 'ducer I might use something that is less likely to develop bubbles, like caulk or something. You might find it easy to just route the chord through your hatch, or you could drill out a hole and get a wire sealing plug that are sold at any place marine electronics are sold. I personally like the RAM mounts for mounting the actual unit to the boat. It allows for a great range of motion and great flexibility for where you want to have the unit set so it's both out of your way, and close enough to see well and hit the buttons for screen adjustments.
Hope this helps!

I am figuring out how to rig a Revo before committing to a purchase.  Do those who dunk their transducers over the side on a PVC boom find that they create significant drag?  I'm spoiled with the T13 scupper mounted transducer.

I have a Cuda 350 and an Outback.

I have the transducer set in a foam cup gooped just forward of the mast insert (just inside the front hatch.  I currently the cable to the head unit just routing up through the seal on the forward hatch, and then the head unit is mounted on an ram ball insert mount in the mast insert.  I'll probably cut a routing hole through the forward bulkhead this year, since I'm pretty sure I was taking on water through the hatch seal.  I may also just cement the transducer to the hull, as I don't see myself needing to move the FF from kayak to kayak (and if I do, transducers are relatively inexpensive).

I have a Cuda 350 and an Outback.

I have the transducer set in a foam cup gooped just forward of the mast insert (just inside the front hatch.  I currently the cable to the head unit just routing up through the seal on the forward hatch, and then the head unit is mounted on an ram ball insert mount in the mast insert.  I'll probably cut a routing hole through the forward bulkhead this year, since I'm pretty sure I was taking on water through the hatch seal.  I may also just cement the transducer to the hull, as I don't see myself needing to move the FF from kayak to kayak (and if I do, transducers are relatively inexpensive).

Question: How do you like have your FF mounted out of your mast insert? I found an old blog Zee started the other day and he was talking about the mast wedge. I started to look at thinking that it was what I needed, but then realized I couldn't reach the thing. My new FF has the GPS as well and want to be to reach it, but if its mounted that far forward I'm not sure I can. I do like the idea of the wedge mount though. What kind of battery's are you running with your FFer's?

12 volt, 8 amp hour, sealed, gel cell rechargeable.
Housed in one of these:
http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/servlet/the-238/Battery-Box-Complete-Power/Detail
If you can spend the extra dough to get this setup, you won't regret it - it's bomb-proof!
There is a cheaper way though. It was just recently talked about but I can't remember what thread it's in. Basically you'd just use a cheaper dry box, a trailer light plug adapter, some foam to make the battery snug on the inside of the box and a lot of marine goop.

Dis one?

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,2350.0.html

Yup, thanks INSAYN. That's the setup.

Question: How do you like have your FF mounted out of your mast insert? I found an old blog Zee started the other day and he was talking about the mast wedge. I started to look at thinking that it was what I needed, but then realized I couldn't reach the thing. My new FF has the GPS as well and want to be to reach it, but if its mounted that far forward I'm not sure I can. I do like the idea of the wedge mount though. What kind of battery's are you running with your FFer's?

RAM ball in the mast mount, extension arm, balled mounting plate.  The photo below shows the WRONG ball mount, but gives the idea.

Look up the power draw in the user's manual.  It will likely be listed as milliamps (MA).  Use that to determine the potential running time from a particular power source rated in amp-hours (AH).

For example, 300 MA draw from a 3 AH battery will theoretically provide 10 hours of usage.  3 AH = 3000 MAH, so 3000 MAH/300 MA = 10 H

My rule of thumb, pulled completely out of thin air, is in practice you will realize half the theoretical performance.  If someone actually knows the facts, please speak up. 

I was thinking about what demonick mentioned in regards to figuring out the running time of a particular battery and I'm wondering if I can also use these older Dewalt 12V dw7091 batteries? They are still in great shape and based on your battery life equation above, I may end up getting 6-10 hours of battery time from each battery. Does anyone have any idea how these cordless drill batteries work for FF/GPS? I like the idea because they are light weight, easy to pack, re chargable and most importantly, "FREE".  I know they are small and will require switching out more often, but what the hell. If I can get close to 1 full day out of each small battery, that's OK....ANY thoughts?