Hobie Revo Rigging

re: battery & electronics placement,

why not go under deck with a set of pad eyes, rivet them in place , using copious goop of course, and use a battery bag ala T13?? then use stick on cable anchors to run the cabling along the underside of the deck, and then decide where you'd place your fish finder? most of the revo's i've seen have had them mounted somewhat to the right side of the cockpit on an extended arm mount..

just a few thoughts.

I used the OK battery bag, cable hangers, for the T13A and this time I think I would prefer a waterproof battery secured to the bottom.  

Here's how I rigged the T13: http://www.demonick.com/kayak/FF.GPS/power.html

And I plan the same thing for the Revo except for the battery location.  I like the power outlet because I can just plug in the battery charger when I get home, and never need to access the battery.

You could have somebody such as INSAYN weld you up a piece of stainless or aluminum pipe 1" long centered on a 1 1/2 square flat bar. x2 of course. Drill 4 holes in that flat bar and you have a mount. Drill a hole in the desired spot on the pipe and put a set screw in. You could polish or paint it so there isn't any sharp edges. If I had a welder I would do it for ya.

I had not considered having some thing fabricated.  It's a great idea.  I know a TIG welder.

I know a TIG welder.

Perfect! I was thinking you might want it a little higher off the deck so you could use UHMW as a spacer or have a taller one fabricated.

A TIG welder would be the right choice for sure, as you could have this part made easily from SS or Alum.  Unfortunately I can't help ya with TIG yet.  I am seriously eyeballing a TIG unit to purchase next year that comes with a steep price tag, but packed with power and versitility beyond my wildest fabricating dreams. 

The bar mount thread on AquaHunters Forum has come up with some interesting things including motorcycle handlebar mounts, Hobie Side Kick Mounts, and a simple stainless U-bolt with plastic spacer.

We don't do much kayak sailing up here but the thread is morphing into a discussion of DIY sail furling systems employing a front bar.  You have to register to see the thread but here's the link to the thread and links to the motorcycle and Hobie Side Kick mounts:

http://forum.aquahunters.com/index.php?topic=3975.0

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VXAHWW/ref=asc_df_B000VXAHWW956097/?tag=globa0a-20&creative=380333&creativeASIN=B000VXAHWW&linkCode=asn&tag=aquahunters-20

http://www.austinkayak.com/products/886/Hobie-Sidekick-Mount-Bracket-Top.html
http://www.austinkayak.com/products/887/Hobie-Sidekick-Mount-Bracket-Bottom.html

I've installed the bar on the Revo.  Using the Hobie Sidekick Mounts I linked to in a previous post and some PVC.  The first photo is of all the parts.  The white blocks are backing made from a plastic cutting board.  All the hardware is stainless.  One of the sleeves is on the bar under the bracket and the other is free.

The second photo shows the brackets and the schedule of PVC used.  The schedule is important in that the system should be based on a 1-1/8" OD bar and the PVC used is 1" OD.  The slotted sleeves make up the difference and a thicker 1" PVC would still require the thinner schedule SDR 21 slotted sleeves.  

If I were to do it again I would use a 1-1/8" OD aluminum bar and avoid all the sleeving.  Using an aluminum bar requires the brackets be perfectly parallel, so install the mounts on the bar then mark the hole locations on the gunwale.  My installation was not quite so perfect, but the PVC has some give.  

The third photo is of the installed bar with the RAM 235 ball mount for the FF/GPS and the Scotty 245 bar mount for a rod holder.  

The fourth photo shows that 1/2" schedule 40 PVC will fit inside the bar, creating the possibility of a telescoping arm.  DIY downrigger?  Camera boom?  

This would never work for me...I am too tall...I wish it would though

Besides some genius over at Hobie arldy made the cockpit to short so if you have the pedals to the farthest adjustment point (I always do) they hit the front bulkhead/hatch when you extend fully forward...why couldn't they make the mold 1 inch longer on the cockpit ?

obviously nobody is tall at Hobie (by the way 6'3" is tall but not abnormally tall so it should have been accounted for IMO)

However if I made a _]-[_ type design with the pvc I could pedal under the rack but I don't want something that high it would get in the way i think....I have the finder and a rod holder mounted on ram balls on the gunnel rails in front of the nets...but honestly they get in the way and I wanna move them...but there is no good place to put them really

Yessno, you've got 7" on me, and I have stubby legs. 

The Hobie Revo (and perhaps the Adventure) has a clam cleat attached to the lower edge of one of the mesh pockets.  Does anyone use this cleat?  It seems like it would potentially snag and tear a dry suit.  I removed the clam cleat and am installing a zigzag cleat on the gunwale just behind my right hip.

I'm also working on a bow lacing to provide some gear lashing on the bow and get rid of the goofy bungee hold downs for the the front hatch cover.  I have a hard time grabbing those bungees with dry, bare hands, not to mention what it might be like with wet hands or gloves. 

Demonic, Thanks for the pics of the brackets and pvc parts, etc.
Small diameter bungees aren't easy to grab when tightly wound around something. Especially when your finger tips are losing some sensitivity due to the cold.
 I just picked up a package of those little bungees that have the little plastic ball on them. Makes 'em easy to grab, and the ball tucks under the bungee to hold it fast. I bought a pack of 10 of them at the local hardware store (world's highest prices, but the also the world's best customer service) for about $6.99, but you can probably get 'em at a big box for much less than I paid.
They are very handy!
The plastic balls on the bungees I got are blue. So I will have all these little blue balls on my Tarpon.
Just don't start calling me "blue balls!"

Last night I finished the bow bungee lacing.  There are 8 buttons and 4 pad eyes and the first buttons are mounted to the existing machine screws holding the internal rudder system pulleys.  By popping the bungee off the first couple buttons, the hatch opens easily.  The hardware is stainless with 3/4" fenders and nylock nuts.

The bungee is 1/4", and loaded with about 1.5x stretch.  Total flaccid length of the bungee is 206", so 206/1.5 = 137".  I added a few inches more, because it is easier to shorten than lengthen.

If this gives anyone any ideas here is also a PDF layout map with dimensions. 

Jesus Christ! That guy in the video has so much crap on his Revo I bet it weighs more than my Pro Angler! I thought I was a gear junkie.

Have you thought about getting a Scotty Triple rod holder #257 and mounting it in the sail mast hole? You could mount the FF in the middle, and a rod holder on each outboard side and it would completely clear even my big size 14's.

Cool thing about peddling, your hands are the rod holders now. I flyfish from my Pro Angler, never take the Trident 15 except for lure/bait runs now. If you got the bucks, pick up a spare set of Turbo fins. I have torn 2 so far in a year. And they only rip when the bite is ON and you are MILES from the nearest Hobie shop.

Unless your honeypie doesn't like you being a 2 kayak home, I'd keep the T-13 and just get another transducer for the Revo. I swap the batteries between both my kayaks, rod holders, and I would swap the fishfinders but the one on the PA swaps with my bassboat.

If you got the bucks, pick up a spare set of Turbo fins. I have torn 2 so far in a year. And they only rip when the bite is ON and you are MILES from the nearest Hobie shop.

Unless your honeypie doesn't like you being a 2 kayak home, I'd keep the T-13 and just get another transducer for the Revo. I swap the batteries between both my kayaks, rod holders, and I would swap the fishfinders but the one on the PA swaps with my bassboat.

TLW is a non-issue as regards my toys.  Shooting, flying, fishing, cigars, beer, bourbon, coffee roasting, kayaks, whatever, she's down with it, and enjoys most of them.  And, she mows the lawn.  And I DON'T take her for granted.

I could use the standard fins as emergency backup.

I am keeping the T13 and did get a new transponder.  I was using the through-the-scupper Humminbird transducer on the T13 and needed something shorter for the Revo.  

The PVC bar mount is finished on the Revo.  A photo is below.  A scotty bar mount and rod holder is on the right, a RAM u-bolt ball mount, extension mount, and Humminbird unit mount is on the left.  The white plug in the forward bulkhead is a marine power plug, and the 3 wires hanging are the male power plug, the transducer, and Humminbird power connectors.  The FF connectors still need to be mounted in the Humminbird unit mount.  The battery charger has a cigarette plug so to charge the battery I just plug in the charger.  

The PVC pipe running along side the boat is a wand with the transducer mounted at the end.  The 'T' connector lets the wand rotate 270 degrees and a pin locks it in place.  Over the weekend I'll install the transducer closed foam inside the hull for the shoot-through-the-hull transducer mounting.  Then I will be able to evaluate the performance of the two mounts.  My concern with the wand mount is vibration, drag, and torque.  It may be that the PVC is eventually replaced with aluminum.  I'm still working on the photos and website update.

Weather permitting I am hoping for a flounder shakedown cruise this weekend.  Also after the shakedown cruise the stock front hatch bungees will likely be removed.

TLW is a non-issue as regards my toys.  Shooting, flying, fishing, cigars, beer, bourbon, coffee roasting, kayaks, whatever, she's down with it, and enjoys most of them.  And, she mows the lawn.  And I DON'T take her for granted.

Does she have a single sister? 

Does she have a single sister? 

Alas, no.

Yesterday morning got in the maiden voyage at Richmond Beach of the new Revo.  Stiff wind, whitecaps, and tidal curent, but learned a lot about the bar mount, transducer wand mount, and boat organization.

- The Thule Glide & Set might not be the best carrier system for the Revo.  The stern's shallow hull profile is so flat the slick rear pads are horizontal and the boat can slide side to side on them even strapped down.  Wrap the straps around the bar and the carriers.  Need some non-slip shelf mat slipped between the carrier and the boat. 

- A shallow Plano tackle box may fit between the mirage drive and the gunwale.  Perhaps a loop of bungee would secure them in place.  More investigation required.

-  I still see no advantage to the Twist-n-Stow rudder over a standard vertical flip rudder.  Had to return to shallow water because I forgot to free the rudder blade from its bungee.  Couldn't get it with the paddle and conditions were harsh enough I did not want to crawl back there.

- The bar mount is very helpful and the concept is sound.  FF/GPS placement was good and secure.  Rod holder spun on the PVC bar too easily.  Could never be used to troll.

- Use an aluminum bar not PVC.  Will make temporary fix with stair-tape.

- Transducer wand worked well but its in-the-water advantage may not outweigh the simplicity of an internal foam mount-and-forget.

- Front hatch fits both Wheelez tires and a small dry bag.

- The bow lacing worked very well to secure the Wheelez frame and a Silver Horde KatchKooler fish bag.

- The mesh storage pockets are handy - food, gloves, hoody, etc.
- The crotch hatch gear insert is handy for used gear - keep the lid off.

- Hands-free propulsion is great!  It out-weighs all the storage drawbacks of the Revo.  The mirage drive can really book!

- Boat got more water in it than expected, probably a cup or two.  Could have been while loading the Wheelez tires in the front hatch in the surf, or stashing used gear in the crotch hatch, or leakage in rough conditions - took lots of waves over the bow.  Will do a vigorous hose test next week.