PFD recommendations

That was the first thing I tried here in the Columbia.......I came in over the right side after removing the paddle...it has a coiled leash attached.
I found it not that hard to kick, pull myself over the side....my fish finder is forward of the down rudder "T" handle, so the surface is clean of obstructions.
The only item exposed in my vest was the long nose pliers....they actually stayed in the sewn in loop.....the rounded edge of the Hobie helps and I had no problem reaching across to the left side carry handle....keep in mind I was kicking all the time....I then rolled clockwise to get my fanny in the seat area.
I am not out of shape and that is a bonus.....the PFD really supported me with the high back design....DSC

I don't view thickness as the only issue.  It's the edges of pockets or even buckles that cause problems.  I don't ever recommend PFD's with buckle up fronts.

-Allen

My first PFD after moving up here was the Chinook. Even with the pockets loaded, I had no trouble getting back on the Big Game. This is a 35" wide SOT so you need all the reach possible and the Chinook was never a problem.


Jay

The buckle on the Chinook is tight against my rib cage and just below the flotation.....no way to impede reentry of the kayak.....DSC

I use an Extrasport Striper.  The flotation in front seems thicker than others I've seen, but it works fine for me.

Been using the Chinook for a few years now, and have to admit that I don't like the lower pockets.  The only things I put in them are my license, car key (only because of the clip inside the pocket), i.d., and occassionally I'll hang the tag end of a length of leader line out of one pocket.  Otherwise, I leave them empty so that they don't add much bulk. I hang my radio from a carbiner on one shoulder strap and have a knife hanging from a loop near the zipper, and a whistle also up high and held in on front of the left breast pocket.  I wouldn't mind if the lower pockets were gone entirely, but I wouldn't want to give up the upper chest storage.
I do really like the low buckle for securing the fit.  It is tucked in low enough, below all of the flotation, that it doesn't impede re-entry. I tighten the pfd from the bottom up. I start with all straps quite loose then clip and cinch at waist, zip up front, cinch down sides, then pull shoulder straps tight. That lower strap, under the chest panels, feels like it's key to getting the fit to really grab onto my rib cage. It's a little bit confining until you get used to it, but when I bail out (practice) the pfd doesn't move or slide up to my armpits at all and I float quite high in the water.  I've only used a few other pfd's but none of them high backed like the chinook.

The buckle on the Chinook is tight against my rib cage and just below the flotation.....no way to impede reentry of the kayak.....DSC

Sorry ... bottom buckle excluded.  Some PFD's have 3 buckles up the front instead of a zipper.

-Allen

I have the Stoli Fisherman and am happy with it.  Not bulky, good fit, some storage.


Kokatat Bahia Tour might be worth a try...  

I picked up an NRS Chinook on sale from Outdoor Play this Spring, and I like it. If I'm fly fishing, I put a small fly box or two, a spare tapered leader, a tippet spool and a small multi-tool in the lower pockets. I don't cram 'em full of stuff!
Have a Gerber Rivermate attached to the front, and a whistle in one of the top pockets, License and ID in the other, VHF clipped near top of left shoulder strap.

I also have an Extrasport Solstice, which has two flat pockets on the front, and boasts a very comfortable strap system, too.

Both pfds are high-backed and clear the seats on either of my paddle craft, my Native Ultimate 12 and my WS T-140.

Kokatat Bahia Tour might be worth a try... 

Mine's on it's way through the mail! 

I agree having a bunch of stuff hanging outside the vest as many of the photos show is a bad idea.  Using the shoulder straps for a sheathed knife and radios/whistle is the way to go.  If you have pockets use them to keep the exterior profile as smooth as possible.  One may also want to consider one's size.  If you are 6'2" and solid muscle you are going to sink like a rock and it will take more flotation to keep you up and high in the water.  It may also be harder for you to re-enter your yak.   This is one case where being small and/or fatter is good - you're lighter in the water.  I am on the small side and in my drysuit and PFD I float like a top.  

I agree, all that crap hanging off, poking out, etc. looks like trouble waiting to happen. 

Fatter might float better, but I'm betting solid muscle has a much easier time getting back into the boat   

Factoid: the best long distance swimmers have some body fat, which helps insulate them as well as float them up higher. I'm a "fat skinny" type (beanpole carrying at least 5 extra lbs), so I enjoy the best of both worlds!

I agree, all that crap hanging off, poking out, etc. looks like trouble waiting to happen. 

Fatter might float better, but I'm betting solid muscle has a much easier time getting back into the boat   

If you're built like a brickhouse I'd think you would need a higher floation value than the average guy.  Start adding a ton of crap to all those pockets and your 16lbs of flotation pfd can quickly become a mere 6 or 7lbs of floatation, not a problem if your cognizant and able to swim but not nearly enough to maintain positive buoyancy if you are unconscious.

Fatter might float better, but I'm betting solid muscle has a much easier time getting back into the boat   

Best of all, sharks don't like lean meat